Need SBE Advice with Ejecting Problem

Shane Roberts

Shane Roberts

New member
I'm having serious problems with my Super Black Eagle. I bought a mint condition older SBE about four years ago. I didn't have any problems the first year I had it.

Then I started to have problems with it ejecting shells. I took it to a gunsmith and found out it was missing the ejector on the inside of the barrel.

My problem is it keeps stove piping shells. I have installed a tactic sure cycle last year and it is still having problems. I totally broke down the gun last week and cleaned it out. I removed the sure cycle and cleaned it out with a 20 gauge wire bush. I used gun shrub and wiped dry...then applied one drop of Rem oil on bolt on the of the sure cycle. I keep my guns very clean, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. I even clean my gun with Qtips. Sometimes, I use Remington oil and sometimes I run it dry, but nothing seems to work.

I applied two drops of Rem. oil on a Qtips and ran it down the rails. Then used a clean Qtip to remove the rest of the oil. On my second shell after cleaning, it Stove Piped the shell. I'm positive it was firmly on my shoulder.

Any ideas what could be my problem?

Thanks, Shane Roberts
 
I've been having the exact same problem with my "new" used M1. I cleaned the heck out of it last night. I noticed that the little ejector housing on the inside of the barrel has a hairline crack and I'm hoping that isn't the issue. I haven't fired it yet. Tomorrow we'll see.
 
My SBE hates RemOil. The Teflon gums it up. Try Breakfree and see if this helps.My SBE only stove pipes them when it is dirty , or when I used RemOil.I havent had any problems since switching to Breakfree.
 
Shane,

Will it still cycle 3.5" shells well? Last season my old SBE started to stove pipe on 3" shells. Every 3" shell jammed, 3.5" didn't. With help from Charlie and Tod.O sending photos and manual information I determined my ejector plate was broken off in the ejector housing. A search of the net revealed this is a common problem with older SBEs. The design was changed while still in the "1st" model Vs the SBE2. The Plate looks like a small spring loaded bar sticking our of the ejector housing. This is the part that adapts to the shorter rounds and eject them. If broken the short rounds stove pipe.

Bar is available from Gun Parts and the ejector assembly is held in place with two set screws and slides back out of the slot in the receiver.

View attachment closeschematic.jpg


View attachment closeparts.jpg

Good luck!
Scott

View attachment closeschematic.jpg
View attachment closeparts.jpg
 
Experienced very similar frustrations with my SBE II right out of the box. After 2 seasons of experimenting with fixes and seeking advice on the Benelli forum, I gave up and shipped the gun back to the manufacturer in MD. Their gunsmith was familiar with the issue made a modification that really didn't help. I sent it back a second time for another mod that also didn't help. In the end, I insisted on a replacement and they agreed. The new gun has performed flawlessly with several hundred rounds through it (game and target loads).

Benelli customer service was great. They were very patient while I was impatient, bordering on furious. In retrospect, I should have sent them the gun immediately. The only reason I didn't was the factory service backlog. The first repair took over 90 days to complete (which would have essentially wiped out the season) and the second repair 3 weeks as they prioritized it ahead of other work. It would have been far less stressful to send them the gun than to endure the many missed opportunities caused by malfunction.

If memory serves, Benelli offers a 5 year warranty. You might give them a call to see if they can help. I dealt with Paula Murdock who was at the time (2-3 yrs ago) their customer service manager. The number is (301) 283-6981.

In the "for what it's worth" department, I barely oil my SBE II (it has a composite body, not sure about the construct of the SBE). I will apply a very light sheen on the bolt assembly and other exposed metallic parts but thats it. No issues in temperatures ranging from single digits to the 90's.

Good luck
-Jim
(Formerly known as "click, click, bang")
 
Shane, you say "I took it to a gunsmith and found out it was missing the ejector on the inside of the barrel". I assume he replaced it for you? Part 45G in Scott's exploded view is the specific part I have replaced on a couple of SBE1s due to them being broken and not ejecting 3" shells. The extractor on the bolt pulls the empty out of the chamber and because it never hits the ejector, the empty stays in the gun. Classic stovepipe jam is the result.
 
"Stove Pipe". Can smoeone explain this term? I had troubles with my M1 not fully slamming forward on the new shell after firing and that was fixed by replacing the spring in the stock. Is this stove piping?

Thanks -

Mark W
 
I have an M2 and also have this problem. I have found really the only thing to do is when you clean the recoil spring and cylinder, do not use an oil or any lubricating liquid that is slimy or sticky per say. It collect to much dirt and then does not work well. I use a product called Sheath and just spray those parts down, let the excess run of then towel it down and not completly wipe it of and i usually do not have a problem until I have fired 400-500 rounds. After that I begin to notice it starting again. RemOil is not the best to use on these parts. I am also going to try to find a spring manufacture and possibly replace this spring with somehting a little more stiff.
 
Mark,

A stove pipe is when a semi-auto fails to clear the previous spent rd before the bolt closes for the next rd. With a pistol the open mouth of the case is generally sticking out like a "stove pipe". Failure to fully close on a new round is a separate problem that I too had a couple of seasons ago. It got progressively worse. I installed a Sure Cycle spring assembly which didn't help much. Finally the link pin failed. When replaced the bolt started to lock up properly and the SBE worked great up until the ejector bar failed last season. Love the gun but it hasn't been trouble free over the last 10 -12 years I've owned it.

Good luck with your M1.

Scott
 
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Thank you Scott. I've seen stove piping on the M1 but not very often. Maybe 10 times over the many years I have owned the gun. Mine has really been problem free with the exception of having to replace the spring in the stock when the bolt wouldn't fully close. I found cleaning that spring really wel;l and then wiping it with a very light oil seems to work. No problems for the past couple of years at least.

Mark W
 
Follow up....I stripped mine down and cleaned it real good and Knock on Wood it worked fantastic. I plan on installing a Wolff spring in the very near future but overall this morning the thing cycled as fast as I could pull the trigger.
 
These things are the best you can get, but thay do need to be clean and properly oiled. What I've done for years is Blast parts with brake cleaner if dirty, including the trigger group. If I'm hunting saltwater, I rinse in hot fresh, including the trigger group. I spray everything with brakefree, and wipe off with a rag. The only actual drops of lubricant I put on are breakfree on the bolt slides (and work the bolt, remove and wipe off the bolt) and a drop or two on the trigger group. As for the recoil spring in the stock I shoot some breakfree in there and stick a tico tool in there - somthing I learned from Sutton. I take the recoil spring apart every year and clean.
 
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