Chuck J
Well-known member
Well, after several discussions, and much overplanning and over procrastination on my part, I knocked out a prototype last week, and over the weekend built a second of which I tried to capture as many steps as possible with pictures...though I now see, I could have done better, but like I said, I tried...
I started by cutting the dimensional lumber:
1x6s
Two at 24" (sides of the box)
One at 22.5 (Bottom of the box)
One at 12" and one at 23" (these are for the box ends, and will have about a 3" knotch for the gun)
2x4s
Two at 7"
Two at 5.5"
Drill an 1 3/8" hole in the middle of the bottom board
Mount the two sides to the bottom, leaving 3/4" on both ends of the sides to lap the end boards
Drill an 1 3/8" hole through the middle of one 5.5" 2x4
Drill a 2" hole throught the other 5.5" 2x4
Fasten the two 5.5" pieces with screws
This allows for an 8" long, 1" dia black iron pipe and cap to slid in the pipe fits throught he smaller hole but not the cap, leaving the cap in the 2" hole
Slide the pipe through the hole in the bottom board
Fasten the 5.5" blocks from the side with screws, then cap off with one of the 7" blocks
On the other 7" block, drill 5/8" deep with a 2" bit, then through the rest of the way with the 1 3/8" bit
Mount this on the bottom of the box
Tighten down a 1" pipe coupling within the 5/8" recess, and it should snug down on the bottom of the recess firming up the swivel assembly
Cut your gun knotches and mount the ends on the box
I tried to design mine to keep the gun at a safer angle than the traditional boxes, while concealing most of the gun, as you can see, I worked with a curvey neck which will be supported by the box end. If you wanted a traditional style (or if I decide this isn't working and want to change) it is just a matter of cutting two end the same length (12" in this case)
I painted the sillys and boxes separate. I made one lefty, as I continue my eye dominance experiement from last fall...but if that fails, I can easily reverse it. I got two pieces of 3/4 conduit that I painted flat black. The conduit slides nicely into the 1" black pipe
I started by cutting the dimensional lumber:
1x6s
Two at 24" (sides of the box)
One at 22.5 (Bottom of the box)
One at 12" and one at 23" (these are for the box ends, and will have about a 3" knotch for the gun)
2x4s
Two at 7"
Two at 5.5"
Drill an 1 3/8" hole in the middle of the bottom board
Mount the two sides to the bottom, leaving 3/4" on both ends of the sides to lap the end boards
Drill an 1 3/8" hole through the middle of one 5.5" 2x4
Drill a 2" hole throught the other 5.5" 2x4
Fasten the two 5.5" pieces with screws
This allows for an 8" long, 1" dia black iron pipe and cap to slid in the pipe fits throught he smaller hole but not the cap, leaving the cap in the 2" hole
Slide the pipe through the hole in the bottom board
Fasten the 5.5" blocks from the side with screws, then cap off with one of the 7" blocks
On the other 7" block, drill 5/8" deep with a 2" bit, then through the rest of the way with the 1 3/8" bit
Mount this on the bottom of the box
Tighten down a 1" pipe coupling within the 5/8" recess, and it should snug down on the bottom of the recess firming up the swivel assembly
Cut your gun knotches and mount the ends on the box
I tried to design mine to keep the gun at a safer angle than the traditional boxes, while concealing most of the gun, as you can see, I worked with a curvey neck which will be supported by the box end. If you wanted a traditional style (or if I decide this isn't working and want to change) it is just a matter of cutting two end the same length (12" in this case)
I painted the sillys and boxes separate. I made one lefty, as I continue my eye dominance experiement from last fall...but if that fails, I can easily reverse it. I got two pieces of 3/4 conduit that I painted flat black. The conduit slides nicely into the 1" black pipe
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