Cleaning up brushes after using oil paint

I'm sure everyone has a method of doing this, but I'd like to hear how you do it and why. I currently use two sili-coil jars. The first I use OMS to get the majority of the paint off the brushes. The second I use turpenoid to finish cleaning and it seems to condition them a bit. I admit, I'm fairly new to this, so I would appreciate hearing from others.
 
For the little I use oil paint, I just use a cheap brush and throw it away. If I need to save the brush for a second coat, I 'll clean it with paint thinner or wrap in plastic wrap for short term storage.
I've also just dunked it into a container of water, it won't hurt anything and won't dry out, shake it off and your good to go...:)
 
I use a little Turpinoid (never soak the brush) and paper towel to get as much paint off the brush at first. Then cool water and Dawn, and always finish with The Master's Brush Cleaner And Preserver. Then let the brush dry in a horizontal setting. Thinner's, mineral spirits, etc., are brush killers, no matter what type of brush.

I have more brushes that I will ever use, or wear out. Yet many of my favorites are from the 1980's. For disposable short life brushes, that do a great job. I have 40+ ROYAL soft grip, in all stages of wear.
My brushes take a beating cuz I scumble a lot. Not the thing to do with Langnickle and Isabey brushes, but sometimes I do.

I use oil paint, Rust-Oleum, Ronan and tube oils on my carvings, signs, and flat art, except watercolor paintings.

All brushes get taken care of ASAP.
 
Vince, all the old timers I remember at the marina used paint thinner. I never heard of turpinoid or Master's Brush Cleaner until I read this thread. I will have to hunt some down and try it, sounds good.
In the meantime, here's how I have been doing it:
I use two rags (old hand-towels) and a few ounces of paint thinner (mineral spirits). Wearing nitrile gloves, smoosh as much paint as possible out of the brush with one of the rags. Then dribble some spirits into the brush and keep going using the same rag. Just a small amount of spirits really loosens up (dilutes) the paint a lot, making it transfer to the rag more easily. After a few iterations of this process, the towel starts picking up less and less paint from the brush. Then switch to the clean towel and keep going. Pretty soon the towel will stop picking up any visible paint. Lastly, I smooth the bristles and carefully wrap the brush in a paper towel to keep the bristles from splaying out as it dries. I have heard that old-timers also used combs to work the paint out from deep within the heel of the brush, but I have never tried that. I just make sure to be pretty aggressive in working the paint out from deep within the brush. I usually paint my duck boats with a 4" brush, and I'd guess it only takes 4 or 5 ounces of spirits to clean it. If done carefully, none of the paint or spirits ends up on the floor, and there is no jar of dirty spirits to dispose of later. I hang the two towels out as if on a clothesline to dry. When dry, the towels are somewhat stiff, but they can be reused to clean the brush several times. I have been using the same brushes through four or five complete paintings of my boats, usually two coats each, and I'll still be using them next time I'm painting.
 
I never really clean my brushes. I paint almost every day . So the secret is to never let the brush dry out. I get the major of paint out with Recycled OMS. Dry on towell. Then saturate in mineral oil, and wipe off excess. The oil keeps the brush from drying out. Rinse in oms before next use. This was passed on to me years ago from a pro sign painter who made his living off his brushes. ( he uses trans fluid! But it has been a time and brush saver for me)

For a deep clean Vince's method ( dawn) works well.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention I use Master's brush cleaner also after the turpenoid. I reuse the OMS and turpenoid until they are really dirty, thus the Masters Cleaner as a last step.
 
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Eons ago, when I did my mfa, after a good cleaning in turpentine, which was purchased by the gallon at a hardware or lumber store, I washed brushes using water and ivory soap, then laid brushes horizontally to allow thorough drying. The key with horizontal is to prevent the unclean matter out of the ferrule area of the brush, which will cause great harm to the bristles.
Having access to clean rags is also a boon. Disposal of same could be a hassle nowadays, though/
Matter of fact, I STILL have brushes that I purchased and used with both oils and acrylics that are STILL in use. Mind you, the bristles have shrunk a bit. These were good, sable hair brushes. Cost m a lot more than I could afford back in the late 60's.
Yeah, some of them are older than some of you guys on this forum.
 
I paint almost everyday, most of it watercolors. Good watercolor brushes are not cheap and must be maintained. That's why the good cleaning and Masters Brush Cleaner. (There is also a soap that gets oil paint off your hands without toxic risk)

All I did was transfer my WC cleaning method to my oil brushes, and it has served me well so I stick with it.

We each have our own ways unique to our own creative process. That's what makes Art, the individuality.


When I paint oils, after I mix my paints for several projects I just keep at it until the last current project is complete. I don't gear up until there are lots of projects to paint. Cuz the more ya paint the more ya get, and stay in the Zone. Ya gotta ride the crest of that wave and know when to get off when it dies, or ya burn out.

That's when I go back to sketching, carving and watercolors to Lax and Then RELAX. Another wave will be along shortly to ride...

The brush cleaning is just a habit and part of everyday life.

"Provocateur - I don't believe in Art. I believe in Artists." - Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968)
 
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