jeff kakaley
Member
Needing a new anchor line, looking for solid braid nylon. Any suggestions as to where I can find something?
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff
Anchor line
- Thread starter jeff kakaley
- Start date
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Jeff~
I am guessing the anchor line is for your decoys and not your duckboat.
There are lots of choices. For tarred line, in recent years, I have been happy with Joy Fish:
https://joyfish.co/products/black-tarred-braided-nylon-twine
Bob Metrich at Decoy Rigs in Indiana has nice un-tarred braid. No website; phone is 219-659-8371.
Both offer lots of diameters. I do not like to handle - or untangle - fine lines, so I use #72 or about 1/8-inch lines.
Hope this helps,
SJS
I am guessing the anchor line is for your decoys and not your duckboat.
There are lots of choices. For tarred line, in recent years, I have been happy with Joy Fish:
https://joyfish.co/products/black-tarred-braided-nylon-twine
Bob Metrich at Decoy Rigs in Indiana has nice un-tarred braid. No website; phone is 219-659-8371.
Both offer lots of diameters. I do not like to handle - or untangle - fine lines, so I use #72 or about 1/8-inch lines.
Hope this helps,
SJS
If for a boat, no need for solid braid, twisted nylon 3/8 to 1/2" has been the standby for a long time. Unless you just want to go bold. LOL
A nice "decoy" line I've been using lately is a dark olive dyed braided jacket "crab" pot line. Comes all sizes but I've used the #6 which is bout 3/16"
Kellar fishery supply has it in spools. Fairly soft but doesn't kink, and the size makes it easy to handle.
A nice "decoy" line I've been using lately is a dark olive dyed braided jacket "crab" pot line. Comes all sizes but I've used the #6 which is bout 3/16"
Kellar fishery supply has it in spools. Fairly soft but doesn't kink, and the size makes it easy to handle.
David Allen
Active member
jeff kakaley
Member
Sorry I should have specified. I'm looking to replace my boat anchor line. I had a soft braid poly outer shell, nylon inner ( I believe ) just disintegrate over the years. Looking for something a bit more durable and without an inner core. 19ft boat.
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
Most supply houses sell 100' spools. West marine sells by the foot, don't know about colors. Military surplus shops may have it. I picked up brown in 3 strand years ago.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Jeff~
The standard anchor rode is nylon - because it stretches. You can often buy it cut to length with eye splices at each end. It is almost always white - but I have seen it in black, too. I would use 1/2 inch for a 19-footer.
For a painter (bow line), I would consider this polyester with a manila-like color:
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/3-strand-vintage-polyester-natural-rope--foot-or-reel--42849.html
On the other hand, once your shiny white nylon enjoys some use and mud, it probably won't flare any birds.
NOTE 1: Polyester is related to Dacron and NOT polypropylene. I avoid the latter because it degrades quickly and forms sharp "splinters" as it gets brittle in the sun. Spun polyester/Dacron is the nicest rope to splice (aside from manila or hemp).
NOTE 2: If you get a new painter, make sure it is not so long that it can foul your prop if it goes overboard. I like half-inch for a painter because it's comfortable in the hand when dragging your boat around.
All the best,
SJS
The standard anchor rode is nylon - because it stretches. You can often buy it cut to length with eye splices at each end. It is almost always white - but I have seen it in black, too. I would use 1/2 inch for a 19-footer.
For a painter (bow line), I would consider this polyester with a manila-like color:
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/3-strand-vintage-polyester-natural-rope--foot-or-reel--42849.html
On the other hand, once your shiny white nylon enjoys some use and mud, it probably won't flare any birds.
NOTE 1: Polyester is related to Dacron and NOT polypropylene. I avoid the latter because it degrades quickly and forms sharp "splinters" as it gets brittle in the sun. Spun polyester/Dacron is the nicest rope to splice (aside from manila or hemp).
NOTE 2: If you get a new painter, make sure it is not so long that it can foul your prop if it goes overboard. I like half-inch for a painter because it's comfortable in the hand when dragging your boat around.
All the best,
SJS
Hello Jeff,
I had the same question about 9 months ago and I was advised by some in this forum to buy a 600 foot spool form Hamilton Marine.
I took their advice and I bought 3/8th inch 3 strand nylon rope -I believe it was military grade for US and Canada. The Rope is made in the USA.
It is 3/8 x 600 TW Superior Nylon White Orion Rope Works Winslow ME
The price was most reasonable compared to Western Marine so I bought the spool.
I used this for a 16 foot Merry Meeting Bay Gunning Float; however, according to Western Marine 3/8th is a good choice for even heavy boats from 21 to 24 feet long.
I had the same question about 9 months ago and I was advised by some in this forum to buy a 600 foot spool form Hamilton Marine.
I took their advice and I bought 3/8th inch 3 strand nylon rope -I believe it was military grade for US and Canada. The Rope is made in the USA.
It is 3/8 x 600 TW Superior Nylon White Orion Rope Works Winslow ME
The price was most reasonable compared to Western Marine so I bought the spool.
I used this for a 16 foot Merry Meeting Bay Gunning Float; however, according to Western Marine 3/8th is a good choice for even heavy boats from 21 to 24 feet long.
jeff kakaley
Member
Thanks for the replies. I thought the material I purchased with the boat was more durable than what it turned out to be. I have to be honest ...my anchor line was overlooked and for one reason or another I eventually was doing something around the boat when I literally had the outer layers fall apart in my hands. No idea what might have happened if the anchor were attached ...disaster I would imagine. I can always count on the expert advice from members of the forum. Thanks everyone. I'm now armed with ideas and information.
Happy Memorial Day !!! 🇺🇸
Happy Memorial Day !!! 🇺🇸
Scott Farris
Well-known member
I'm partial to using military surplus 7/16" Olive Drab Nylon rope. It's a 3 twist nylon for good shock absorbance and splicing. I've picked up a few coils over the years and have never had an issue with it. This includes many a subfreezing day and even a few below zero F mornings. The line doesn't absorb water the way a braided line can, so it works well even in these sub freezing temperatures. I have bought mine at Outdoor & Gun shows and while I endorse the line, I have not had dealings with the ebay seller in the link to the line.
View attachment 7_16 nylonOD Rope.jpg
Scott
View attachment 7_16 nylonOD Rope.jpg
Scott
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Scott~
Thanks for the link. I been searching for awhile - my mistake was searching on "Olive Drab" instead of "Military". And 7/16" is perfect.
All the best,
SJS
Thanks for the link. I been searching for awhile - my mistake was searching on "Olive Drab" instead of "Military". And 7/16" is perfect.
All the best,
SJS
Dang. I was looking forward to a Sanford recipe for dying white line to match the boat.
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Steve glad I could help.
Jeff, this is on decoy line but it's dug out of my archives from the late 90's I think Anyone know who Mudhen-PA was back in the early internet days?
Scott AKA: CTducker
I also have not been able to locate any of my old time favorites for the past few seasons, so I reverted to how we used to do it back in the 50's. Back then we started with cotton rope, but braided nylon is far superior. Find the diameter you like best (my favorite for puddle dekes is 1/8' - for divers I like 3/16' - for sea ducks I would suggest 1/4') and get a gallon of the cheapest flat black oil based paint you can find.
Best to do this outside, in an area you can spill a little paint. Pour off about 1/3 of the gallon of paint, and submerse the entire 100' or more of nylon line into the can. Leave it in there for at least and hour (I leave it overnight), then remove and place on a piece of cardboard or similar surface while it dries. After several days, unwind and stretch out tightly (between a couple of trees is good) and let hang that way for several more days until completely dry. Cut to length - don't have to burn.
There are some minor inconveniences during the first season of use. It is too stiff at first, but take your time and wrap carefully a few times and that works out. It is a little bit shiny until used a few times, then turns a charcoal gray which is hard to see even in clear water. Some of the black will rub off onto your hands while handling the first few times.
By the time the second season, and many subsequent seasons thereafter, this stuff is absolutely wonderful. It won't rot, it won't unravel, is extremely resistant to any knotting, it turns to a dark gray color and sinks, and it won't damage the decoys like some of those finer twines can. If you rig with clips at both ends, you have an endless number of combinations you can achieve.
Experiment with several sizes and see if you don't like it. If you are making rigs with main lines, put loop knots in before you soak in paint. Knots are harder to tie once the paint has dried. I use a two-loop fisherman's knot to attach to decoy ring or snap loop, etc. Be prepared to use pliers if necessary and have some waterless hand soap to clean the paint from your hands when finished.
This is by far better than anything I have ever used, including tarred line, which continues to be dirty and never dries.
Last season I spent a total of about 4 hours preparing 1000'. This year I put together 300' for Donald Hughes, and it took me about 1 1/2 hours total.
Give it a try, I think you will like it once you get through the first season.
Mudhen-PA
Jeff, this is on decoy line but it's dug out of my archives from the late 90's I think Anyone know who Mudhen-PA was back in the early internet days?
Scott AKA: CTducker
I also have not been able to locate any of my old time favorites for the past few seasons, so I reverted to how we used to do it back in the 50's. Back then we started with cotton rope, but braided nylon is far superior. Find the diameter you like best (my favorite for puddle dekes is 1/8' - for divers I like 3/16' - for sea ducks I would suggest 1/4') and get a gallon of the cheapest flat black oil based paint you can find.
Best to do this outside, in an area you can spill a little paint. Pour off about 1/3 of the gallon of paint, and submerse the entire 100' or more of nylon line into the can. Leave it in there for at least and hour (I leave it overnight), then remove and place on a piece of cardboard or similar surface while it dries. After several days, unwind and stretch out tightly (between a couple of trees is good) and let hang that way for several more days until completely dry. Cut to length - don't have to burn.
There are some minor inconveniences during the first season of use. It is too stiff at first, but take your time and wrap carefully a few times and that works out. It is a little bit shiny until used a few times, then turns a charcoal gray which is hard to see even in clear water. Some of the black will rub off onto your hands while handling the first few times.
By the time the second season, and many subsequent seasons thereafter, this stuff is absolutely wonderful. It won't rot, it won't unravel, is extremely resistant to any knotting, it turns to a dark gray color and sinks, and it won't damage the decoys like some of those finer twines can. If you rig with clips at both ends, you have an endless number of combinations you can achieve.
Experiment with several sizes and see if you don't like it. If you are making rigs with main lines, put loop knots in before you soak in paint. Knots are harder to tie once the paint has dried. I use a two-loop fisherman's knot to attach to decoy ring or snap loop, etc. Be prepared to use pliers if necessary and have some waterless hand soap to clean the paint from your hands when finished.
This is by far better than anything I have ever used, including tarred line, which continues to be dirty and never dries.
Last season I spent a total of about 4 hours preparing 1000'. This year I put together 300' for Donald Hughes, and it took me about 1 1/2 hours total.
Give it a try, I think you will like it once you get through the first season.
Mudhen-PA
This is what I used on my 19 foot skiff for duck hunting. Worked perfectly.
In case anyone wants to use the paint method to dye their line, don't do it that way.
mix the paint 50/50 with thinners, then it will soak in better and dry, won't be too stiff and won't bleed over everything.
Or, the better way is to "tar" the line like all the commercial fishing netting, except you don't use Tar, that's why it stains, that stuff never really dries.
Use non-fibered foundation coat from any box store, thin with paint thinner, at least half, probably a little more, like water, dunk your loosely coiled line, rope, net, etc., hang up and let drip and dry. Now it will stiffen your lines, knots will hold better, and not come off in your hands. If you want a camo line, use the gold or tan nylon and just dunk half the coil.
As a plus, you can dunk rusty tow chains, tools, traps any rusted metal you want to protect and it lasts a long time.
mix the paint 50/50 with thinners, then it will soak in better and dry, won't be too stiff and won't bleed over everything.
Or, the better way is to "tar" the line like all the commercial fishing netting, except you don't use Tar, that's why it stains, that stuff never really dries.
Use non-fibered foundation coat from any box store, thin with paint thinner, at least half, probably a little more, like water, dunk your loosely coiled line, rope, net, etc., hang up and let drip and dry. Now it will stiffen your lines, knots will hold better, and not come off in your hands. If you want a camo line, use the gold or tan nylon and just dunk half the coil.
As a plus, you can dunk rusty tow chains, tools, traps any rusted metal you want to protect and it lasts a long time.