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Duck boat rebuild

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Duck boat rebuild
here is my duck boat made by a company called SeaMark its a garvey style copy.


Located in South Jersey
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
sorry the posting pictures is tough
here is her side profile its 17 feet long I've had the boat for 10 years put a floor in it when i got it (wrong way) and it lasted ten years now its time to rebuild it again.


Located in South Jersey
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Nice looking hull, is it glass or wood?


Carl
Mobile, AL
DHBP Member since 1998

"Life is too short to drink bad beer."
Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present surveying methods. It is only a report on or comment concerning local observation and/or results. Your results and observation may vary based on your location, local water conditions, food supply, weather conditions and migratory patterns "
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Thanks Carl the hull is fiberglass here is her picture when we were both younger

Located in South Jersey
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I am paying a fiberglass guy to make 90% of the repairs his prices are very reasonable stringers are in.

They added 24 oz of woving roving and 6 oz matt before the stringers were put in.

Located in South Jersey
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That's an awesome boat Josh!
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Thanks greg in the bow of the boat they cut the front deck off and i am thinking of placing my 12 gallon fuel tank up there to move some weight forward as my etc weights 320 lbs and causes the boat not to self bail. i had the stringers raised an inch to raise the scuppers for this issue also. I don't want the fuel tank under the center console as it was in my old design now i will be putting batteries under there. The fuel weight is 76 lbs hoping it being upfront will help any thoughts guys?

Located in South Jersey
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I would vote fuel up front, since wet cell batteries would take more pounding-not good for the plates over time.
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They glassed in the bulkheads and stringers completely and added the bilge area they gel coated the bilge and added the flotation foam along with the pipe chase to run my steering and wiring.


Located in South Jersey
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Good morning, Josh~

I am thoroughly enjoying your progress. Having grown up on Great South Bay, nice Garveys always make me smile.

Question: What material is being used for the framing? Wood ? Foam boards?
If the latter, do you know the density?

All the best,

SJS

Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com


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Hey Steve before i answer you questing i want to thank you for your web site that i built my Sanford layout box from. I discovered from that site that you are friends with my neighbor Paul Castelli. About 6 years ago i bought a higbee sneak box from Paul but i have since parted with it. All my framing is Douglas fir i wanted to build the whole boat in composite but if i had done it in coossa board it would have priced the project out of the realm of possibility. The Guys who are building my boat also just bought two sneak box molds and planned on building one of each for the Tuckerton decoy show a 14 foot and a 10 foot model. They didn't have the 10 foot mold out but the 14 will be a planing hull with a with a profile similar to a Higbee.
Located in South Jersey
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In Reply To
They glassed in the bulkheads and stringers completely and added the bilge area they gel coated the bilge and added the flotation foam along with the pipe chase to run my steering and wiring.

Josh, be careful w 90 deg elbows for your run. Usually better to use 45. Steering cables don't like to bend that sharp.

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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Thanks guys for the replies the stringers are only 7 inches tall making using 45 degree turns difficult and I'm hoping to get away with the one 90 degree turn. The pipe is three inch and i put pull rope through them. You guys think i should run all the wires steering, and throttle and shift cable at once or all separate?
Located in South Jersey
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Is your steering basic teleflex steering? If so, try and see if you can bend it to that angle.
All at once is ok. Just don't tape them together except at the pull point. ANd have someone push while you pull
But also if those corners have any non smooth surface/lip inside them sometimes things will get stuck when they hit them. But w 3" you can almost get ur hand in there if necessary.
Not trying to be an alarmist but past experiences are painful. :-)
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
Is it wise to run the steering, control cabling and wires in the same chase? Don't the steering and control cables flex some with use? I would be concerned wires would be chafed unseen?

Dave Diefenderfer
Manassas, VA

“If you set out to build a boat, throw away your square. And if you work on her after she’s launched, throw away your level.” - author unknown

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Well i am to late to change the pipe chase so i guess i have to live with it. They glassed the floor in tonight and i worked on the center console.

i copied my other boats center console enlarging it in length and by height by a few inches. i used a 45 degree chamfer bit on the router to round over the edge ply is Okume 1088 I used wood flour epoxy mixture on the inside with 6 oz tape over it. Then i saturated the inside with epoxy. I can't use epoxy on the exterior as the inside of the boat will be gel coated.

Located in South Jersey
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Guys the fuel tank got foamed into place and the guys have been making great progress i decided to add to rear storage boxes in the stern to make up for the lost storage in the bow where i am placing the fuel tank. I reused my old tank from a few years ago it is a moller plastic 12 gallon model. I know 12 gallons is not a lot of fuel but i went round and round trying to make a larger tank fit but without having a custom tank built it was impossible. The cost for the custom tank was over 300 dollars and i had the moller on hand and the tank would have been at least 3 weeks to complete.

The rear boxes will also give me somewhere to keep other emergency gear i keep in the boat dry clothes, rain gear, space blankets, stuff like that. Was thinking about starting a separate thread to talk about the "extras " you keep in your boat for safety if anyone is interested.
Located in South Jersey
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Dave and Bayport make good points, you can offset the chafing issue by enclosing all your electrical wires inside a run of wire loom. Either heat the steering cable via a sunlight exposure "bath" or warm it with an hair dryer, same for the wire loom electrical assembly run. If you use Ancor wire, it is heavier than the stated gauge and tinned for additional corrosion protection, hence the premium cost.
You can still alter that exposed elbow's angle... to ease the strain a bit on you steering cable run.
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Thanks for the replies i will definatly use some type of loom as cheap insurance. The guys removed the rub rail (old one was garbage) and now i am tasked with finding a replacement. Some companies say they will bend to a 6 inch radius some say they are rigid. my boat has basically 90 degree turns so i need to find one that can make that bend. I am going to call Taco marine tomorrow to see if they will recommend a rail for my application. The rail is any where from 200-350 dollars so i only want to buy one of them. Taco is the main company that pops up when i google rub rail.
Located in South Jersey
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Taco Marine does excellent work. They supply the hardtop frames for Boston Whaler as well as both aluminum and stainless rod holders. I also purchased some aftermarket rod holders from them for my Conquest 235-very well made and still going strong.
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Re: Duck boat rebuild In reply to
front deck glassed in these guys said there work would be done before duck season and they weren't kidding.
Located in South Jersey
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well i tested the pipe chase and with some luck i got the teleflex steering and shift cables through the chase. It was not easy but at least possible. The bad news is my shift cables and my steering cable are 8 inches short so back out they come and i guess ill be ordering new. The guys glassed down the center console so there are no fasteners that penetrate through the floor and no place for water to enter to cause rot. behind the center console i had them build a pad to place the seat on its 2 sheets of 3/4 ply glassed over so when i screw a seat down it only gets holes into the seat pad never the floor if that makes sense. The storage boxes in the rear got built and now i am posing a question to you guys. My fuel line in one piece from the front to the rear. I purposely separated the battery and the fuel tank because i don't want to have to vent any compartments. In the stern right boat they built I'm going to have a lot or rigging and the battery posts where I junction from the extension cable to the battery cables on the outboard. Should i place my fuel water separator on the outside of this box or the inside i have never had one leak but its a mess when i have to change the filter. If i placed it on the inside do i have to vent it? I'm already going to have the primer ball on the exterior.


Located in South Jersey
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Well i picked the boat up the rest is on me. I still have to wire it rig it put my Etec on it and install the controls. My total with materials for the guys to go this far was 4300 for the glass work and another 1000 in gelcoat and paint. I originally was going to just go parkers marsh brown but when i saw what they were capable of on a different boat I invested the extra money. The progress will be slow now as i have to work overtime to pay for all the other things the boat requires to be finished.
Located in South Jersey
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well I'm a little bit closer
Located in South Jersey