epoxy and cloth questions....

Ed L.

Ed L.

Well-known member
Supporter
I've read both Raka's website and US Composites site until my brain has swelled and my eyes bled! I've 90% decided to purchase from US Composites for epoxy. Can anyone offer any pro's or con's?

The next question is fabric....I had no idea there were so many options. With the thought that my boat is 11' ft long x 46" wide x 13" deep with 1/4" plywood skin and will be used in 3ft of water covered by weeds. What should I be looking for in a weight? I imagine the thicker the material the more epoxy it will take to wet out but what I'm seeing is .009 to .102 in 6 oz. though 10 oz. I'm thinking one layer of 7 1/2 oz. would be middle of the road. Is there more to take into consideration that I don't know?

One final question. My granddad have a wooden runabout when I was growing up he never put anything on it but a tinted spar varnish to seal the wood. Would this be adequate for sealing the inside before I paint it or do I need to epoxy the inside as well?

Thanks.

Ed L.
 
Ed,

Don't know what boat you are building so this just a guess but you don't need anything over 6 oz for most duck boat applications unless you are building a monster. When I built my KARA I used 3.25 oz because Larry at RAKA had it on sale and it has worked fine. For my BB3 I used all 6 oz cloth with extra tape at the chines and keel and again no problems.

On epoxy, I have had good luck with RAKA on both boats I built with it. It is virtually a no blush epoxy and Larry has always been there to answer questions and supply everything I have needed in the way of accessories. No experience with anyone else.

As far as the inside, what are you using for wood? If marine grade plywood then I'd epoxy the inside because that wood doesn't soak up much water at all. If you are using dimension wood like in a BBSB then I'd just prime and paint so it has a chance to breath.

Pete
 
I love 6oz cloth. It does corners well as long as they are not too tight. It won't become an resin hog and allows for a nice smooth finish. Once cured it is very strong for the small boats we are making.

You have ribs in your boat so I assume you will be putting in a floor. You should just epoxy the inside to seal the plywood so that the paint will have something it will like to stick to. The few things I have used spar varnish on have needed constant up keep. Epoxy just a simple paint touch up to keep the UV rays away.
 
From reading this forum asking questions and comparing prices, I think both companies are great. I went with US Comp, I think it was low prices but can't remember now. Anyway, the guy was very helpful and I have been very happy with the product. I bought my glass cloth from Joel. I can't remember now why I used two different suppliers, I think maybe price. I also bought the expensive shears for cutting the cloth, plastic tubs, stir sticks, various rollers and gloves at the same time. I remember hooking on to the US Comp website, then calling to talk to somebody in person.
 
Ed, if light weight is a big thing with you, get 3-4 oz tight weave. I have 6oz on my BB2 and have hit all kinds of stuff. Put a 12" strip on the keel, on top of the initial glass so it is doubled there and a strip down each edge for extra protection. Make sure the cloth you get is compatable with epoxy as there is a difference in what it is coated with. If and when I build my Broadbill, I will be using 3 oz. Coat the inside with a few coats of epoxy...no reason not to.
 
Hi Ed,
We have already discussed epoxy. I used US composites because of cost, least expensive and it worked fine. I'm waiting on plans for a Bateau DS15. I looked at the Bluebill and BBIII, I couldn't decide which boat and ended up with the Bateau DS15 because I could get the plans in metric measurements and wanted to scale the 15' 1/2" boat down 10 percent.
The Bateau plans specify 12 oz 45/45 Biaxial tape and cloth. This is simplified overview, but for a given weight Biaxial is 30 percent stronger than woven cloth, 6 oz Biaxial would be equivalent to 9 oz woven cloth. In addition to being stronger, due to its lay up, it does not soak up anymore epoxy regardles if you are using 6 oz or 12 oz Biaxial cloth. In researching cloth sources, I've found it priced equivalent to woven cloth.
Also for other boat builders in the midwest. I know this will create some controversy, but I found a local alternative to marine plywood. Mernads is selling 1/4" 5 even ply Baltic Birch Underlayment (hardwood plywood). This is exterior grade, extetior glue (phenolic glue), guaranted no void, guaranted squareness, guaranted to pass boil tests, sanded front and back and only $27.00 per sheet. Advantages are locally available, expense and stronger than Marine ply. Dis-advantage: harder to bend and wieght - a 4x8 1/4" sheet is 2 lbs more than a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" Meranti plywood. Because it is Birch it must be completely encapsualed in epoxy just like Okume.
If anyone wants to look this up the web address is www.halexcorp.com/underlayment_birch_4.shtml .
 
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Dave,

I was leaning towards US composites for the same reason. I'm not at that stage yet so I'm still deciding. As far as the plywood I did by mine at Menards. Same stuff based on sales counter information. Thanks for the website. Makes me feel even better about my decision.
I found a local source for fabric so I went ahead an bought the 6oz. cloth. I paid a little more at $8.75 a yard but I think I'll have a place to go for anwsers if I have questions. I didn't concider their epoxy because it was very pricey.

Nothing happening on the boat this weekend since we have company this weekend but I'll be back on it next week.

Take care,

Ed
 
Todd, Don't pick on people from Wis #@%^&@ We all stick together. I send Wis Boz after you.
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I'm not too worried, I've paid my dues and can pick on you sconnies all I want.
 
Ed, Was that plywood difficult to bend? Make sure you coat all of the inside with epoxy also.
 
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Ed, Was that plywood difficult to bend? Make sure you coat all of the inside with epoxy also.
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What about those ears? if you got them in the resin that would make a mess.
 
Good. I found a place to get 12 oz Biaxial cloth for $7.75 a yard.
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Don't you have problems getting resin in your fur?

T
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Tod, I see you are from CT. Too bad. I grew up in Meriden, CT. Left there 40 years ago. Now I sit in the middle of thousands of acres of public hunting land. I see you like to shoot at stuff. What soda cans? I zero my rilfes in my back yard. I walk out my back door to my deer stands and coyote calling areas. Sometimes I ride my four wheeler. I drive 20 minutes from the house for some of the best Ruff Grouse hunting in the nation. The only reason I drive is so I don't disturb the deer and turkey around me. My duck hunting is on State and Federal waterfowl production areas 7 miles north of my house. For early goose season, I just sit down by the pond 100 yards below my house and shoot them as they fly over. Yup the best thing I ever did was leave CT.
 
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Dave,

I know it's probably none of my business, but before you get into too much of a fight here... I think there may be some subtle ribbing because your name "wachtelhund" breaks the main rule this forum has - must use real names or some derivative of them. So I think (correct me if I'm wrong) Tod may be poking fun as if you are a wachtelhund giving advice about fibergalssing....

Charlie
 
Nope! Only when I go to Montana every fall pheasant hunting. There they have millions of acres of public land. We hunt whole sections at a time. That's 1 mile X 1 mile, or 640 acres for you Easterner's. Probably difficult for you to imagine!
 
Nope! Only when I go to Montana every fall pheasant hunting. There they have millions of acres of public land. We hunt whole sections at a time. That's 1 mile X 1 mile, or 640 acres for you Easterner's. Probably difficult for you to imagine!
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No doubt having 20 toes helps you when you have to count to millions.

I also don't see the relationship between how lousy CT is and the fact that your online persona is that of an obscure dog breed.

Just an FYI, I lived in WI for 6 years. Like you I know lots about the state I used to live in and while you see CT for what it isn’t, I prefer to see every place for what it is.


I hope I didn't rub you the wrong way.

T
 
Dave,

I know it's probably none of my business, but before you get into too much of a fight here... I think there may be some subtle ribbing because your name "wachtelhund" breaks the main rule this forum has - must use real names or some derivative of them. So I think (correct me if I'm wrong) Tod may be poking fun as if you are a wachtelhund giving advice about fibergalssing....

Charlie
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Charlie, Excuse Me! I registered some time ago. Just read the registration requirements. Never received a warning. Maybe I never received a warning because I always had my name in my post. I guess the user profile will allow me to change my user name. I'll check. Tell the Professer to correct his user profile, he spelled professer wrong!
 
Dave,

I know it's probably none of my business, but before you get into too much of a fight here... I think there may be some subtle ribbing because your name "wachtelhund" breaks the main rule this forum has - must use real names or some derivative of them. So I think (correct me if I'm wrong) Tod may be poking fun as if you are a wachtelhund giving advice about fibergalssing....

Charlie
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Charlie, Excuse Me! I registered some time ago. Just read the registration requirements. Never received a warning. Maybe I never received a warning because I always had my name in my post. I guess the user profile will allow me to change my user name. I'll check. Tell the Professer to correct his user profile, he spelled professer wrong!
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Okay it is DaveP now.
 
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