Jist drawing you back out - you've been quiet recently.
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
Touched… lotta living to do
A little less time this week than I'd hoped but a little progress. #6 bulkhead in, fileted, and glassed, as well as supports for a battery drawer and dry storage. Also got #4 and #5 bulkheads tacked in place and ready for filets/glassing either tomorrow or Monday. I'm using West System's Six-10 for "tacking" and gap-filling - expensive, but the ability to drop a nice bead of epoxy along a bulkhead edge before slotting it in place and to use the caulk gun to force it into gaps is sure clean and easy.
Also got started with first coats of epoxy on the new #3 bulkhead, which will go in after 4&5 are fileted and glassed. Then (thankfully) back to some woodworking on shelves, etc. in between epoxy coats throughout the inside of the boat.
Also got started with first coats of epoxy on the new #3 bulkhead, which will go in after 4&5 are fileted and glassed. Then (thankfully) back to some woodworking on shelves, etc. in between epoxy coats throughout the inside of the boat.
I've always wanted to try that stuff but I figured the corkscrew mixing thingy on the end would prohibit more than one use.
RM
It's a thoughtful design... a 3-pack of the mixer-applicator is $5-6, and the tube comes with a replaceable plug and retaining screw. With a touch of care wiping the end after removing the mixer-applicator, re-plugging is no issue. I used 1 tube over about a week with no issues, and sure it could be used considerably longer.
Boom Baby! Count me in. Small price to pay if it makes working with epoxy easier and less messy. RM
To be clear, a tube of Six-10 (with 1 mixer-applicator) is about $30 or so. Too much for bulk use, but for small needs for a structural/thick epoxy it is great. IMO, mixing small batches of thickened epoxy is a pain, and I nearly always have waste. With Six-10, use what you need and re-plug, the only waste is the mixer-applicator.
At room temp it flows smoothly and easily with a decent caulk gun... but doesn't run/sag at all once applied. Sets in 45 minutes or so.
Henry,
You had me with "clean and easy." Thanks for the tip. RM
You had me with "clean and easy." Thanks for the tip. RM
It's been a while since I posted an update, but my daughter's wedding, recovery from said event, and Thanksgiving have meant very sporadic work on the boat. I should have more time to make some real progress the next few weeks.
Since my last update, I finished getting the bulkheads installed, fileted, and joints glassed in, and the keelsons shaped and dry-fitted.
I plan to get the inside bottom epoxied and keelsons installed in the next few days, then cut out the sole.
Since my last update, I finished getting the bulkheads installed, fileted, and joints glassed in, and the keelsons shaped and dry-fitted.
I plan to get the inside bottom epoxied and keelsons installed in the next few days, then cut out the sole.
Boat is really looking good. Can't wait to see the finished boat!
I've been reading reviews on the six-10 product and watching a couple of videos. I'm leaning towards using it on a fix for my boat as well as building a Kara style boat next year. Its good to hear from someone that's actually using it and their personal results.
Henry
Your epoxy and tape work is very tidy. She's turning out like a pro built it.
Your epoxy and tape work is very tidy. She's turning out like a pro built it.
Thanks Ed and Eric!
His head is big enough..... lol.
Looks good dude! Cant wait for the first voyage you take her out on.
Inside of the bottom epoxied and keelsons installed. Made a little jig for getting sole measurements, and have laid out the sole... just waiting on a break from the rain (not likely before Sunday) to cut it out for dry fit and tweaking.
Question... Are you going to cut the floorboard to the measurement that you are showing the jig taking (the bottom of the sole) or are you going to take a second measurement which is equivalent to the top of the sole (at the junction in elevation of the jig extension and sole spacer) and then taper between the 2 measurements? I did the latter and was really happy with how it turned out. If you loft the bottom measurement and the top measurement and then cut to the top and then taper from there to the bottom, you get a really broad footprint to bond the floor down. Either way is fine, I'm sure, one makes a lot more dust.
I like the jig, btw - well thought out. The way I did it was to take the bottom measurement with a level and mark where it hits the hull and then measure from the centerline. I did that for both sides and took and average where they weren't the same. For the top of sole, I did the same thing with a block of 1/2" under the level. Resulted in a pretty neat set of measurements, I wish I still had it.
Initial plan was to measure and loft to the top of the sole, and just undercut at a bit of an angle. Once I started taking measurements, though, I realized 48" just touches the rising bottoms of the boat, so I added a piece to each end of the jig so I was measuring for the bottom of the sole. As a result, I'll have to use more epoxy to level the outer edges of the sole with the hull. I'd rather do it your way, but don't want the sole crowning.
Jeeze, that has me scratching my head how I did mine. My sole is 2 pieces for sure, I wonder if the rear has the panel with the long side perpendicular to the centerline to get the width needed or if your floor is that much higher than mine. The taper is really large in the rear, way over 4", but less than 6" if I remember right.
To do mine again, I'd consider putting a slight (less than 1/2") reverse crown in it for draining (take my measurements high and then sink the board along the centerline with screws. Not a big deal, but it would be slick.
I've been thinking along similar lines (lengthwise to get a little more length and thus higher at the edges), just trying to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze.
As to why it worked out that way on mine (and maybe not yours), the only thing I can figure is that it is possible I cut my bulkheads a little proud on the lower flat section. I certainly could have planed them down a tad, but having done my keelsons to match I don't want to mess with trying to lower all those surfaces.
How much wider than 48" would you need - just curious? I looked at mine and it looks like 48" or so, but I can't really tell because it is faired pretty well and the junction are well hid. I stuck my phone in there and the grain on the face ply is running front to back, so 48" was it. I don't remember if I was able to have a full taper at max width, but I think I did. I for sure wasn't short and I didn't extend it.