Anchor rode upgrades...

tod osier

Well-known member
Supporter
I'll confess that I've used cheap camo double braid from the big box store for decades for my anchor lines. I usually have 3 for hunting, 2 at 75' on spools and a third shorty at 25' that I use snug things up when needed. I also have a high quality three strand 3/8 nylon rode (150') for emergencies in the boat at all times.

Nylon double braid probably the best choice because it is remains more flexible when frozen. My painter and stern line are high quality 1/2" three strand nylon and they do get real stiff when frozen (but so does any double braid I've been around). I'd like double braid, but color and a bargain would trump that.

Looking to replace the cheap stuff with something better, I'd like a quality 3/8" nylon double braid in something nondescript like olive or brown. There is a LOT of stuff out there online, but I'm having trouble finding something with known quality and non black or white. Does anyone have a go-to quality bargain brand with color options? To do it with 3/8" three stand new england three strand it would be $150 and double braid would be $200 and black is the only option. There are a lot of less expensive options, but some seem real cheap. Suggestions???? An inexpensive quality black double braid would be a fine default if someone can suggest one.
 
I have the New England double braid white/gold stuff in my boats for general anchoring duty. I believe it's a variety of 7/16 and 1/2". For painters and rode when hunting I use the 7/16" olive braid that Decoy Rigs sold. Someone told me Bob retired, I don't know for sure. It does get stiff however. You could always buy the rope you want, then dye it in a bucket of water and wood chips.

Not that you would do this (although I would enjoy seeing it ;) ), a friend new to hunting bought his first boat. A marsh grass 16 foot jon, and new outboard. We make a list of all the stuff you need for a new boat. I show him my boats, they all have a painter with a hand loop. I explain how to make a painter, tie to the bow eye, pull under the boat to the motor and add a foot for the loop. Tieing the loop keeps the painter a few inches ahead of the prop if it goes overboard when running. He naturally forgot the loop part. A spun prop hub on a motor in breakin is an expensive lesson.
 
I,ve been using o.d military climbing rope for anchor lines and docking lines for several years. Comes in various diameters with 5/16" being what i,ve used on some canoes and small johns and 3/8" on my 1648 and 2072 for docking and anchor.
 
Tod

I looked into the supplier I have been recently using but didn't find what you are looking for. Regardless, you might call them on Monday to see if they have what you are after.


I also found this. I have zero experience with this product but it seemed to meet your requirements.

 
Tod

I looked into the supplier I have been recently using but didn't find what you are looking for. Regardless, you might call them on Monday to see if they have what you are after.


I also found this. I have zero experience with this product but it seemed to meet your requirements.


Thanks, I forget what I bought from them, but I remember buying from Phoenix back in the day, probably at your recommendation.

On the rope.com, I had some of that in my cart. That is the type of place that I was wondering about. Prices are less than premium, but not dirt cheap and they have what I was looking for. Just wonder about the quality at 50% of the price of a new england rope. There are a lot of way cheaper options in plain black that make me nervous unless someone vouched for them.
 
I have the New England double braid white/gold stuff in my boats for general anchoring duty. I believe it's a variety of 7/16 and 1/2". For painters and rode when hunting I use the 7/16" olive braid that Decoy Rigs sold. Someone told me Bob retired, I don't know for sure. It does get stiff however. You could always buy the rope you want, then dye it in a bucket of water and wood chips.

Not that you would do this (although I would enjoy seeing it ;) ), a friend new to hunting bought his first boat. A marsh grass 16 foot jon, and new outboard. We make a list of all the stuff you need for a new boat. I show him my boats, they all have a painter with a hand loop. I explain how to make a painter, tie to the bow eye, pull under the boat to the motor and add a foot for the loop. Tieing the loop keeps the painter a few inches ahead of the prop if it goes overboard when running. He naturally forgot the loop part. A spun prop hub on a motor in breakin is an expensive lesson.

Don't have a loop at the end of my painter, and it is just short enough not to get stuck in the prop :). Loop would be nice to have, never thought of that.

I should just buy some black new england rope diamond braid, but 200 bucks seems like a lot.
 
Decoy Rigs
PO Box 366
Whiting, Indiana
219 659-8371
I believe his son or son's took over the business. He sells a diamond braid in olive green or grey. I have used his diamond braid line for my mother lines for about 30 years. This stuff does not wear out. They used to send a sample card with pieces of all their line or rope which helps with ordering.

RVZ
 
Decoy Rigs
PO Box 366
Whiting, Indiana
219 659-8371
I believe his son or son's took over the business. He sells a diamond braid in olive green or grey. I have used his diamond braid line for my mother lines for about 30 years. This stuff does not wear out. They used to send a sample card with pieces of all their line or rope which helps with ordering.

RVZ

Are we talking diamond or double braid? I'm looking for double braid.
 
Decoy Rigs
PO Box 366
Whiting, Indiana
219 659-8371
I believe his son or son's took over the business. He sells a diamond braid in olive green or grey. I have used his diamond braid line for my mother lines for about 30 years. This stuff does not wear out. They used to send a sample card with pieces of all their line or rope which helps with ordering.

RVZ
Thanks for that info. I assumed they were no longer in business. The last time I ordered, five or so years ago, he mentioned he was in his 80s so I figured being a one-man shop they would be out of business any day. Good to know the next generation is moving forward.
 
Thanks for that info. I assumed they were no longer in business. The last time I ordered, five or so years ago, he mentioned he was in his 80s so I figured being a one-man shop they would be out of business any day. Good to know the next generation is moving forward.

Seems like the next generation is overdue for a website.
 
Don't have a loop at the end of my painter, and it is just short enough not to get stuck in the prop :). Loop would be nice to have, never thought of that.

I should just buy some black new england rope diamond braid, but 200 bucks seems like a lot.
Yes, loop is great with gloves or hands are cold. It also reduces the chance of an icy line slipping through your hands at the launch.

I'm not a fan of black line, and I agree 200 is a lot for your needs. Ill pay premium for what i want, but not for a compromise unless its an emergency. I'm really happy to hear about Decoy Rigs, I'm going to call for a catalog. I like the web, but I also enjoy speaking with knowledgable folks on the phone.

The line you and Eric are discussing caught my eye a few weeks ago. Sorry I have no info to offer.
 
Yes, loop is great with gloves or hands are cold. It also reduces the chance of an icy line slipping through your hands at the launch.

I'm not a fan of black line, and I agree 200 is a lot for your needs. Ill pay premium for what i want, but not for a compromise unless its an emergency. I'm really happy to hear about Decoy Rigs, I'm going to call for a catalog. I like the web, but I also enjoy speaking with knowledgable folks on the phone.

The line you and Eric are discussing caught my eye a few weeks ago. Sorry I have no info to offer.
let us know if they have a catalog
 
I have several types of rope on board and they change with the season. My Main anchor line is a couple hundred feet of 3/8" double braid. I have a second rope of 1/2 twisted nylon that is used for a tow line or for a second anchor. But these are pretty much useless the temperatures drop below 0 (°C).

In freezing conditions I switched to polysteel that is a twisted poly (https://www.rainbownetrigging.com/p...pn5zIHJnBnXV0AuCvCm0hKrJ8AkWruwWNOJIRq_PVYQPh). It floats and handles ok when frozen. Only thing I do not like about it is if you have to pull a lot rope.... it really tears up your hands. More recently I'm using an orange poly (https://www.lakefish.net/product/45-0030/rope-3-str-twisted-p-e-5-16-x-1200-ft-orange-r0170-wt-28lbs). that is a lot more friendly on the hands, ties and holds a knot well and is good when frozen. I'm using these on my work boat and I don't need it to be camo. I really like these ropes ... I've seen them blue bit not green.
 
I have the New England double braid white/gold stuff in my boats for general anchoring duty. I believe it's a variety of 7/16 and 1/2". For painters and rode when hunting I use the 7/16" olive braid that Decoy Rigs sold. Someone told me Bob retired, I don't know for sure. It does get stiff however. You could always buy the rope you want, then dye it in a bucket of water and wood chips.

Not that you would do this (although I would enjoy seeing it ;) ), a friend new to hunting bought his first boat. A marsh grass 16 foot jon, and new outboard. We make a list of all the stuff you need for a new boat. I show him my boats, they all have a painter with a hand loop. I explain how to make a painter, tie to the bow eye, pull under the boat to the motor and add a foot for the loop. Tieing the loop keeps the painter a few inches ahead of the prop if it goes overboard when running. He naturally forgot the loop part. A spun prop hub on a motor in breakin is an expensive lesson.
Tod, SJ et al~

Lines on vessels of all kinds is yet another one of my passions.

A couple of thoughts: For me. color is not important for anchor lines or dock lines. I typically use 1/2-inch nylon - with New England Rope the source numerous times.

Color is important to me for painters and my light line to the staub/marsh spike by which I secure the boat to the bog when gunning.

Strength and durability are important in a painter. I like half-inch for the heft - and nylon (or spun Dacron better yet) my choice. I like 3-strand because I am incurably Old School and like the eye splices and whipping that are so easy with it. My Dad taught me splicing shortly after I could read - and I picked up whipping later on. I never have learned to splice double-braided line.

sm CAIRD - Whipped and Spliced B.JPG

I sometimes splice the painter "permanently" to the boat (or gunning coffin):

sm Splice a half-inch painter into bow cleat..jpg

I actually prefer being able to store the painter inside the boat off-season. An eye splice and an open-base cleat make a good combination.

FT 20 Painter Flemished and spliced.JPG

For my staubs, I use 1/4-inch Manila. It lasts many seasons - usually stowed inside the cockpit - and can be replaced at little cost - about 8 feet of line - when/if needed.

8b MSF Sneakbox - oarlock stanchion and staub.jpg

One thought on bow eyes. My anchor rode pulls from the bow eye on the underside of the hull - usually a s/s U-bolt. These seem to have replaced the ring-and-eye once so common (stock on South Bay Duckboats, for example). I prefer the U-bolt because it is rigid. As I also use it to winch the boat onto its trailer. It is a one-hand operation to snap on the hook - whereas the ring requires 2 hands. The rode is usually not secured to the U-bolt. Instead, the rode is secured to a deck cleat (usually 6-inches) on the foredeck (which is backed up below deck).

sm 1 Bow - U-Bolt - installed exterior.JPG

The painter pulls from the deck. It may be secured to an eye - or pass through the eye and be secured to the deck cleat. On this South Bay, an eye splice is looped around a shackle to an eye strap (stock ). The eye splice allows it to be removed and stowed inside off-season. In this case, I used half-inch Manila.

Basler painter.jpg

On the vessel in the shop right now - an Arthur Armstrong Blackjack - the central thatch rail (up forward) includes a 5/8-inch eye for a painter, a large handle for a mittened hand, and a 6-inch cleat.

Galati - Bow rail on boat.jpg

Most of my painters are worn (but not worn out) half-inch nylon or spun polyester (Dacron). The color is "close enough". As others have stressed, any painter should not be able to reach the prop! Sometimes I splice a large loop - for my hand or for dock cleats at the launch - and sometimes I just tie a Figure 8 knot for a grip when pulling.

I regularly explore other rope, of course. I am tempted to try this for some painters someday soon:

https://www.rwrope.com/shop/langman...u6YEEaAsfgEALw_wcB#attr=6291,6300,16315,16317

All the best,

SJS
 
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