Bearing Grease and Salt Water Question

Bill Burruss

Bill Burruss

Well-known member
Hi.

I was wondering, does the type of grease used on boat trailer bearings really make any difference in bearing life, particularly in salt water?

I’m getting ready for a 2600 mile trip, and am redoing my boat trailer bearings. Pulled the wheel off my 4 year old trailer, which has only seen fresh water, and ewe, what a mess (yeah, I know you should do this every year, but, here we are….). I notices there is a huge variety of grease out there (lithium based, calcium sulfonate based, marine, synthetic…..some not compatible with others), and was wondering if any really had any effect on bearing longevity, particularly in salt water.

Also,
Has anyone tried Bearing Buddy Seal Sleeves? These are stainless steel sleeves that serve as a “cap” over the portion of the spindle where the seal rides. I believe that the theory is you now have the bearing seal riding on a smooth, pit free surface, prolonging seal life and keeping damaging water out. Of course, since the sleeve increases axle diameter, you need a custom seal from Bearing Buddy.

Thanks,

Bill
 
Bill

I'm not sure about your grease question but will have to look into the sleeves you mentioned. I think of all the trailers I've owned none of them had a good seal there. Seems like weld residue or something perturbs that mating surface.
 
Bill,

Can't help you with either the salt water compatible grease or the seal sleeves BUT............. You shouldn't have bearings going bad in 4 years unless you have neglected your routine maintenance.

Keep them greased.
Check and make sure they are not loose ie. wiggle the tire while it's up on a jack.
keep them greased.
check for a hot hub when trailering a distance.
keep them greased.
if you see water in the grease you likely have a bad rear seal
keep them greased.

I always travel with a grease gun full of trailer bearing lube and give the bearings a few squirts before heading out on a long trip and before heading back.

I have one trailer that is on the original bearings after 12 years (2000 #'s of boat, motor, etc). My BB3 trailer is still on the original bearings though the trailer is only about 4 years old - it traveled to Manitoba last fall (3000 miles total) plus another 2000 miles in Wisconsin.

The caveat to the above is I can't (unfortunately) get near salt water inside of 1500 miles.
 
Coincidentally, I removed my wheel today to start the grease packing routine.

My rear bearing completely - and I mean completely disintegrated. There was very little left of it. The salt water acted like acid. From the outside, you couldn't tell that there was a problem.

I used marine grease sold at West Marine. I greased my bearings, but not too much because I used to grease the bearings a ton until I broke the rear seal, so I tried not to grease it too much.

I hate boat trailers hubs and spindles. There has GOT to be a better way.

I am buying a new axel, the whole works. What a waste of time.
 
A bit off topic, but I had a boat trailer that had a grease nipple on the end of the spindle. The grease would flow through the spindle, the out of a port between the seal and the back of the bearings. This would force the old grease OUT the front of the hub as new grease pushed its way through the bearings. You would just keep pushing in grease until the new grease appeared at the front of the bearings. Then you knew that you'd displaced all of the deteriorated grease. I loved them. I'd still take them off each year just to check and see if they were in good shape, but it made the process of re-greasing the hubs a piece of cake.

Scott
 
Bill,

The sleeves you mentioned do work and work well. I ran one trailer I owned for over 20 years after installing a pair of those sleeves. Sleeves were still providing a good surface for the seals when I sold the trailer. They certainly saved me from having to replace the axle on that trailer.

As you mentioned, it is a drawback to have to order the seal. You can get it from any auto store, it just won't be in stock and they will have to order it.


I've always leaned towards using a grease sold as a "marine" grease. Just like a lot of things "grease" is compound. The end properties of said compound can be altered by adjusting the formulas to favor one or more desired results. Some formulas will provide a greater load bearing capacity while others will rob you of less horsepower (much the same as a lower viscosity oil for cold weather use). I myself feel the extra water resistance of marine grade is a trait I want in the grease I use for my boat trailers.
 
Scott, That sounds like the same system on the Karavan trailers. I bought one for my BB3 and love that aspect of the bearings - you always know when the old grease is out.
 
Pete/Scott,

Thanks.

Agree that theysshould not go bad w/proper maintentance. Unfortunately, this was the first time I have had the left hub off in 4 years of ownership, and the second for the right. 3 of the 4 bearings were pitted, and there were pockets of water in the grease on the one I had worked on previously (the one I never had appart before had little, if any grease, and appeared to be lubed w/dirty water). No zirk fittings on the hubs, so you have to disassemble to lube.

I've seen the "through the hub" system for sale at Champion Trailer. Seems like a great idea. Looks like they have it for 1-1/16" + spindles. If this gets to be a routine problem, I may make the investment.

Take care!

-Bill
 
Dave,

Thanks. Glad to hear the sleeves work. As for the grease, I'll probably go with marine Calcium Sulfonate based, as it seems readily available. Was hoping someone had some firsthand experience as all the labels talk about why their product is superior to the others.

-Bill
 
Andrew,

Exactly why I'm asking- never boated around salt water, and all you folks on the coast make is sound like it disolves steel like suger in water! Can't wait to see if it causes galvanic corrosion between the stainless screws holding the aluminum strips on my keelsons!

Take care,

Bill
 
Use a marine bearing grease (pick your brand) and bearing grease packing tool to assure the grease fully fills the bearings internals under the cage.
Since you have to disassemble to lube the bearings, the above step is most important.

I would change the setup to a system that allows you to grease the bearing without removal if trailering any distance at all.

Water intrusion (rear seal leak) is the #1 cause of marine trailer bearing failure.

I'm a QAE in a bearing manufacture plant.
 
Bill, my apologies for hijacking your thread a little... but we're doing the same thing I think. My boat is off the trailer getting a paint job and I will be flipping it back onto it's trailer soon. I don't have much time to get the trailer fixed as I'm on a tight schedule.

Major, I am located in Old Saybrook (work)... what is a grease packing tool? Are there any websites out there that show what it is? Further, I am buying all new stuff for my trailer... axel, spindle, etc.

In the past when I would grease the rear of the spindle, the grease would pop out the seal and therefore the seal would lose its integrity. So, when I did the periodic greasing, I would put very little in.

What if anything can I get that solves that problem?

I saw Scott's post on the spindle with the pressure release hole, I hope to get those.
 
Just had to laugh about bearing not going bad after (4) four years. LOL

Oh how I remember hunting & fishing in fresh water & not having to worry about the clean-up!!!

We run Buddy Bearings on all our trailer down here.

If not, the s/w would eat the bearing up in under a year, sealed or not.

We still do a complete cleaning every (2) two years since the s/w is so hard on the hubs.

As far as grease, any marine grade grese will be fine.

Just remember not to over grease the hubs or you'll blow the rear seals out.

When traveling, check b/b's after the hub has cooled a bit.

If you load'em up hot, you'll cook the grease.
 
Last edited:
Pete,

I like that Karavan spindle setup, but, I can't get it in my trailer size (1,300 lbs). Only 2,000 lbs. Oh well.

Again, sorry Bill for hijacking your thread.
 
Andrew,

I bought one of these Bearing packing tool from JC Whitney back a few years ago. It works but there may be better designs out there. Here's a different design that I haven't tried. Also in less than 40 minutes (from Old Saybrook) you could run up to Cabelas and pick up two grease through hub assemblies that work with normal spindles. If your buying a new axle assembly by all means go with Pete's recommendation for the sure lube system.

Good luck,
Scott
 
I guess I'm from the old school and still prefer to repack my bearings using the palm of my hand to force the new grease in after first cleaning out all the old grease. Doing it this way allows me to inspect the bearings and there is no question that all the grease in the hub is new grease. Besides, a hub completely filled with grease will usually blow the rear seal. Any grease not in contact with the rollers and cage is not lubing the bearing anyway.

I got no argument with anyone that does it differently, after all its their trailer axle. hehe
 
HDM, yes, nothing like a good pair of latex gloves, grease and a bearing... ; ) That's how I've been doing it for years as well.

Scott, I agree that Pete had the perfect answer, however, I can't make Karavan's axel size fit my trailer. I have an oddball size.

Thanks all.
 
Dang-gonnit Andew, Hijacking my thread again : (

Just kidding... the discussion is good.

You might try Champion for a flow through axle http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.html, They make custom sizes.

Unfotunately, both my trailers are 1" spindles, and Champion's smallest are 1-1/16". Would have to change axle, and hubs. Then my spare hub carrier would be useless (although I could continue using it as a spare tire mount).


-Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top