Lead Molds

k folkman

Well-known member
Are there any tricks to pouring lead? I made several pad weights for my decoys (which by the way are for sale if you have not noticed) and they did not come out as expected. They are rough looking as opposed to being smooth. I poured about 30 just to get 10 descent ones. I have since cleaned them up with a wire wheel and they look pretty good but still not smooth.................Kevin
 
Are you pouring these into a spoon?
Heating up the mold first is probably the best way to get a smooth cast.
Every lead alloy has a slightly different temp it pours best at. Usually hotter is better but there is no use having it too hot. Smoke the mold first with a candle, that helps more with release but I think it can help a little with the lead flowing also.

Tim
 
Are there any tricks to pouring lead? I made several pad weights for my decoys (which by the way are for sale if you have not noticed) and they did not come out as expected. They are rough looking as opposed to being smooth. I poured about 30 just to get 10 descent ones. I have since cleaned them up with a wire wheel and they look pretty good but still not smooth.................Kevin


Like Tim said, it can be a black art with some lead and molds, I've had combos where I couldn't do a thing and sometimes you can do no wrong.
 
Are you removing the slag and other bits from the melted lead before you pour ?

I used to use an old table fork with the handle wrapped with a hot pan holder to clean out the slag before I poured into a candled muffin tin. Put the slag and other detritus in an aluminum pie plate.

Be careful and think about using a Niosh 95 or better respirator mask (can usually find them at Lowes) wear eye protection and gloves. Don't let any sweat or water fall into the molten lead.

Good luck,
Harry
 
Are there any tricks to pouring lead? I made several pad weights for my decoys (which by the way are for sale if you have not noticed) and they did not come out as expected. They are rough looking as opposed to being smooth. I poured about 30 just to get 10 descent ones. I have since cleaned them up with a wire wheel and they look pretty good but still not smooth.................Kevin

I've poured tons of sinkers over the years. Its just like what the othe guys have said. Your lead has to be hot as does your mold. Ithink your pouring into an open mold, so too hot shouldn't be a problem, if your pouring lead into a sinker mold and both are too hot, the lead will run right thru it. I've done that more than once, LOOK OUT. Make sure your lead is clean, skim off the top (slag) with your laddle. dip the ladle on the right side and pour on the left, that way your pouring clean. The candle thing helps, but when your pouring a seasons worht of sinkers you dont have time for that. you can call me 631-668-5741
 
Actually, at least with casting bullets you can have your lead too hot. You will get a rough "frosted" surface. Can you post pictures of your castings? The other thought is: what alloy are you using? is it a fairly pure lead or are you using wheel weights which now have arsenic in them as a cheaper hardening alloy then the old antimony alloy. Zinc contamination will also screw up the quality of lead castings.

Scott


 
One little thing I like to do is to put a box fan behind me to blow any fumes away/out of the garage. Just like deer hunting, it's all about playing the wind. Don't let that crap blow in your face, your kids will never have kids.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. I use caution when melting lead and always do it outside. Here is a pic of one after cleaning it up with the wire wheel. You can see the wrinkles. It was cast from old sinkers.....................Kevin
View attachment IMG_0930.JPG
 
Wrinkles are usually from a cold mold. Did the ones you poured toward the end of your session look better? As was said before, too hot is frosty. A little tin in the lead can make a big difference too, say one part tin to 20 lead. This'd be 1 pound of 50/50 solder to 10 pounds of lead. I also stir in a little lump of bees wax into the hot lead, stir it good, and this'll get much more of the dross out of the lead. Light the wax smoke on fire if you want, so you're not filling the shop up with smoke. If you're breathing smoke though, you need to ventilate better, so you're not breathing in any lead vapor that might be present. I put a cheap bathroom exhaust fan over my lead casting area.
Set the mold on the rim of the lead pot as you're heating it, so it'll heat up too. I always figure on throwing the first few bullets into the remelt pile until my mold comes all the way up to the right temp. Then you may have to fiddle with your proceedure so the mold doesn't get too hot, such as waiting X number of seconds before pouring the next one. I don't care if my sinkers are wrinkly, frosty or whatever, but bullets, or in your case decoy ballast, you'll want perfect casts.
 
Yeah! Exactly what Matt said. My only comment is that I was taught to always flash off (ignite) the wax fumes, darned if I know why, but I always do it. Maybe it's a little sacrifice to the gods :^) More comfortable than naked stump dancing.

Warm up the mold.

Good luck,
Scott
 
One little thing I like to do is to put a box fan behind me to blow any fumes away/out of the garage. Just like deer hunting, it's all about playing the wind. Don't let that crap blow in your face, your kids will never have kids.

Great idea Kevin. Glad to know you are being safe with plumbum.
Best,
Harry
 
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