Bill Burruss
Well-known member
All,
Hello. Well, after 11 years (boy, how the time flies), it’s time to start on a new boat. I offered my older son a boat for his college graduation, which he enthusiastically took me up on, and it looks like it is going to be a stretched Cackler. Over the years we got a lot of mileage hunting, fishing, shrimping, and crabbing out of the BB2. Although the BB2 did fine and never held us back, in hind sight a stretched Cackler or Snow Goose would have been better suited for the multiple rolls we put it through, especially shrimping and crabbing in Puget Sound.
We have the 2014 Cackler and 2004 Snow Goose plans in hand, and with the 2014 CAD update some things have changed since I built the BB2. We are getting ready to purchase plywood, and thought I’d ask the membership a couple questions. Our current plan is a Cackler with everything per spec (to include motor well), but add 1 foot to the cockpit/hull by repeating station 12 or 13 and add the little 6 inch protrusion to the bow like the Snow Goose.
Anyone have any Cackler/Snow Goose mods they would like to recommend or share?
For those who stretched the Cackler, how did you do it, and , any lessons learned?
I think Todd O’s shelves on his Snow Goose look very practical. Will most likely add those. Any idea what size deeks they will hold? Will G&A magnums fit?
The new plans call for building on frames vs. the “open” method. Since we are modifying the hull, I am planning on using the open method to verify the bulkhead dimensions are still good before cutting high dollar ply.
Also will skip the 2-part foam and go with putting PFDs in the floatation compartments, per the updated pans.
BOM calls for 15 gallons of epoxy. Seems excessive. Any snow goose builders remember what they used? I’m thinking 10-12 gallons total of epoxy and hardener should be plenty.
Last builds I went with RAKA epoxy. For U.S. Composites, what viscosity works well for these small boats? May try them. Will give the "peel ply" a try to see if it cuts down on sanding/fairing.
The new Cackler plans call for ½” okoume ply for the hull and deck instead of 3/8”, but I am considering 3/8 meranti hull/side, 3/8 okoume deck, and the rest from okoume bulkheads/floor per spec. Built the BB2 the same way, and still remember those annoying meranti splinters……
Also, new plans call for Dynel sheathing instead of 6oz fiberglass on the hull. Any thoughts on that? I think the glass on my BB2 held up well, even after crossing oyster beds at low tide. Don’t know much about dynel.
Bronze sure has gotten expensive. Looks like ss screws for this one.
Will definitely post progress, but it looks like Bob Monteith is well ahead of me, both in terms of schedule and thought process!
Any helpful suggestions welcome.
Take care!
-Bill
Hello. Well, after 11 years (boy, how the time flies), it’s time to start on a new boat. I offered my older son a boat for his college graduation, which he enthusiastically took me up on, and it looks like it is going to be a stretched Cackler. Over the years we got a lot of mileage hunting, fishing, shrimping, and crabbing out of the BB2. Although the BB2 did fine and never held us back, in hind sight a stretched Cackler or Snow Goose would have been better suited for the multiple rolls we put it through, especially shrimping and crabbing in Puget Sound.
We have the 2014 Cackler and 2004 Snow Goose plans in hand, and with the 2014 CAD update some things have changed since I built the BB2. We are getting ready to purchase plywood, and thought I’d ask the membership a couple questions. Our current plan is a Cackler with everything per spec (to include motor well), but add 1 foot to the cockpit/hull by repeating station 12 or 13 and add the little 6 inch protrusion to the bow like the Snow Goose.
Anyone have any Cackler/Snow Goose mods they would like to recommend or share?
For those who stretched the Cackler, how did you do it, and , any lessons learned?
I think Todd O’s shelves on his Snow Goose look very practical. Will most likely add those. Any idea what size deeks they will hold? Will G&A magnums fit?
The new plans call for building on frames vs. the “open” method. Since we are modifying the hull, I am planning on using the open method to verify the bulkhead dimensions are still good before cutting high dollar ply.
Also will skip the 2-part foam and go with putting PFDs in the floatation compartments, per the updated pans.
BOM calls for 15 gallons of epoxy. Seems excessive. Any snow goose builders remember what they used? I’m thinking 10-12 gallons total of epoxy and hardener should be plenty.
Last builds I went with RAKA epoxy. For U.S. Composites, what viscosity works well for these small boats? May try them. Will give the "peel ply" a try to see if it cuts down on sanding/fairing.
The new Cackler plans call for ½” okoume ply for the hull and deck instead of 3/8”, but I am considering 3/8 meranti hull/side, 3/8 okoume deck, and the rest from okoume bulkheads/floor per spec. Built the BB2 the same way, and still remember those annoying meranti splinters……
Also, new plans call for Dynel sheathing instead of 6oz fiberglass on the hull. Any thoughts on that? I think the glass on my BB2 held up well, even after crossing oyster beds at low tide. Don’t know much about dynel.
Bronze sure has gotten expensive. Looks like ss screws for this one.
Will definitely post progress, but it looks like Bob Monteith is well ahead of me, both in terms of schedule and thought process!
Any helpful suggestions welcome.
Take care!
-Bill
