Wood Glue thoughts

Matt Vanderpan

Matt Vanderpan

Active member
Hey fellas

What do you use for wood glue on your projects that are going to get wet/used and abused?

I have been using titebond II for a couple yrs and really like it.

Do any of you use titebond III? if so do you like it better or is it a wash between the two of them?

The reason I was asking is I got abunch of scrap 2x6 red pine 12"-30" lengths I was going to glue together for carving. I have enough titebond II for the project but it will about cash me out on glue. I was kicking the idea around of trying III but thought I'd ask the Duckboats Brain Trust of their thoughts on the product.

-Matt
 
Matt, I just started carving and got my info. from Jode Hillman. He recommends Titebond III because it is waterproof as opposed to the II which is water resistant..............Kevin
 
I use #2. I buy it by the gallon. There are so many coats of sealer and paint on my decoys after I'm done with the glue that I don't see the point in upgrading(...untill a decoy fails (hehe) then I'll be singing a different tune.)

Chuck
 
I have always used Titebond II for bonding bottom boards to cork decoy blocks( long before they came out with III), and NEVER have had an issue. You guys know my decoys are hunted hard.

Here's something I copied from a wood workers site:

"In a water resistant test, glued joints were submerged in water for 24
hours. Surprisingly Titebond III scored worse than Titebond II. The TB II
joint held up to about 300 PSI. TB III failed at about 200 PSI. So I guess
you should save your money. TBIII is typically 60% more expensive than TB
II."


I really question whether the difference in properties between the two products for the applications we are using it for (total surface areas involved and pressures on said areas on a properly sealed decoy with glue that has cured completely) makes any difference at all.

View attachment Caspercans 013 (600 x 399).jpg

View attachment Caspercans 013 (600 x 399).jpg
 
I respect what you are saying Bob, in fact I changed the way I glue, based on some pics you posted, but twice Titebond II, bled in extreme cold and wet conditions, and ran out of the seam. The connection was between wood and black cork.
 
Mike,

Likewise, I know that you are a waterfowler who knows his equipment and puts it to the test. Now you have me interested...

By "bled" do you mean that the cured glue liquified and seeped out at the seam? Or did water seep through voids in your black cork and/or bubble the paint layer at the joint line? Did the joint separate?
 
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Yes, cured glue leaked out of the seam. At the time I was only running bead lines in circles on the base board and then gluing. After seeing you not be so "stingy" with your glue, and spreading on both pieces, I now do that with Titebond III. The seam with TB II eventually allowed in water, and the decoy became waterlogged. I don't know if I had used more glue, if this wouldn't have happened, but it was definitely the glue bleeding and not the paint.
 
Ah!

I'd be willing to bet that if you did the coat both surfaces completely and clamp method using II, you (or anyone ) would not have a problem. At any rate, folks will do what works for them - gorilla glue, Elmers, etc. I'm sure the Titebond III is a good product, and if I see it at a price comparable to a gallon of II would probably give it a try.
 
West systen epoxy with the micro filler. I think that if you put all that work into your decoys, pay the extra money for the WS epoxy and you'll never had an issue.
 
I've used titebond II and III for restle coating decoys and thus far I can't see any difference in the two. I use titebond II most of the time as I have the gallon size.
 
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