Another bandsaw ?

Darin Clark

Darin Clark

Active member
I got a new bandsaw for Christmas, finally no more going to a friends. Anyways, I initially put a 1/4" blade that I had on it, tracked it and started cutting. After one body and a keel it came off the wheel and now will not track. I put the 3/8" blade that came with the saw and it runs fine. I called Grizzly and their answer was "don't use a 1/4" blade". Could something have happened to the blade to make it not track? The 3/8" blade is OK for bodies, but I like the 1/4" for heads. I was going to just try a new blade, but decided to see if anyone had any idea what the problem could be first. Thanks
 
I have a grizzly and use a 1/4" blade no problem. Also the blade that comes with the unit is garbage.
 
Will it track when not cutting? If the teeth on one side were dulled it could pull to one side when cutting making it track poorly. If it won't track without cutting I'd investigate further starting with a new 1/4: blade.
 
Is your upper bearing assembly as low as it could possibly be and are your cheek blocks in tight(both upper and lower? These two things become more important as the blade becomes thinner. Also pushing the limit on tension could help. Does slowing your feed rate help? What tpi are you using? if the teeth are 6tpi or more its going to be a slow fine cut. If you have like 3 tpi it should be a coarser cut and allow a faster feed rate. Just some thoughts.
Frank


Frankmiddletondecoys.com
Middeltonboatworks.com
 
It will not track at all. I put the blade on and spin it by hand and by 2 or 3 turns the blade is off. I guess I'll just try a new blade. Any suggestions on a brand and where to purchase one?
 
I missundestood the term tracking so looked it up...took this quote after googling tracking problems....

"It looks like part #55 in your manual's parts explosion section will allow the removal of the table/trunnion. That will allow you to check for co-planer. Since the 1/4" blade tracks like a champ I would suspect the blade before the saw. Lay the blade on it's back on a flat surface like the kitchen table (you can use your workbench, I was just trying to cause trouble). The back of the blade should lay flat on the table. If it holds itself up off the table or has to be forced into a shape other than round to get its back on the table, bad blade.

Bandsaw blades are welded and bad welds on off-the-shelf blades is not as uncommon as we might wish. If the blade check out, the removal of the table to check for coplaner doesn't look like a big deal. Tell us what you find and we can go from there. Let's remember that a 10" bandsaw is really a hobbyist sort of tool. Don't expect too much (but you can certainly expect it to track). I have read good reports of Rikon's customer support. I would not hesitate to call them either ;-)"

Seems like a useful suggestions.
Frank​
 
I'll try laying it on a flat surface to check the blade. I remember laying it on the garage floor, not at all even, but if I am right I bet it will not lay flat which reinforces the blade being bad. I'll order a new blade.
 
There is no reason why you can't use any blade width you want. The problem is your upper wheel camber. on the back of your upper wheel there is a camber adjustment. tilt the upper wheel back to make the blade track back. and tilt forward to tack to the front of the saw. once you get tracking set adjust the blade tension the recheck you tracking. then set your blocks.
 
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Darrin,
Give Perry Mill Supply a call 814-453-5641. They have been making blades for me and I've been very happy with them. They are on W12th if you're in town and can usually make them while you wait but I'd call ahead.
Just a thought, John
 
The absolute best thing I ever did bandsaw wise is read the book "Bandsaw handbook" by Mark Duginske. In it he tells how to adjust the wheels. the tension, (and in what order) and how to go about selecting a blade for what you want to do.

I truly believe its the reason I have such good luck with my bandsaw.

John Bourbon
 
Thanks John, I'll check them out. It would be nice to have a place to go buy a blade as opposed to mail ordering one.
 
John, I hve that book and have read part of it. Now that I have my own saw, I need to spend a little more time with it.
 
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

Call them and tell them what you have and what you want to do. they will take care of you. Great people to deal with.
 
My new 1/4" blade showed up today. I put it on and it tracks perfectly. So I guess there was something wrong with the other blade. Thanks everyone for your input.
 
My guess, once again, is you dulled the teeth on one side making it pull hard to the side. Glad you got it working again.
 
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