Another transom question

[Mark W]

As mentioned in an earlier post, I bought a Lund Ducker to give it a go. I needed a project and redoing the boat, building a motor and refurbing a trailer is just what the doctor ordered.

The transom used to be 3/8" plywood. On the inside of the boat it was probably at the most 6"'s wide and on the outside you can see what is/was there. I have already replaced the inside with 3/4" plywood and have it going from the top to within a couple of inches from the bottom. No problems. What I am trying to figure out is what pattern to use on the back to make it look like it belongs. I can't really go the whole width of the boat for a couple of reasons one of which it looks ugly. I also don't want to go as far down the outside as I did on the inside as I don't want it to be in the water.

So my question, what would you make the outside transom board look like? Think vintage and think artistic. Angular, rounded, 3/4 of the width and then drop down a little more where the motor is? So many possibilities. Lee's old stick figure drawings were 10X better than anything I could draw up. Zero talent.

Thanks -

Mark

 

[Eric Patterson]

Mark

I think all you need to do is protect the motor bracket to transom contact area. A simple shield shape, like a rectangle with clipped corners, would look good to my eye.

 

[John Ki]

As mentioned in an earlier post, I bought a Lund Ducker to give it a go. I needed a project and redoing the boat, building a motor and refurbing a trailer is just what the doctor ordered.

The transom used to be 3/8" plywood. On the inside of the boat it was probably at the most 6"'s wide and on the outside you can see what is/was there. I have already replaced the inside with 3/4" plywood and have it going from the top to within a couple of inches from the bottom. No problems. What I am trying to figure out is what pattern to use on the back to make it look like it belongs. I can't really go the whole width of the boat for a couple of reasons one of which it looks ugly. I also don't want to go as far down the outside as I did on the inside as I don't want it to be in the water.

So my question, what would you make the outside transom board look like? Think vintage and think artistic. Angular, rounded, 3/4 of the width and then drop down a little more where the motor is? So many possibilities. Lee's old stick figure drawings were 10X better than anything I could draw up. Zero talent.

Thanks -

Mark

How about a silhouette of a duck or goose. Sleeping pose would make it more compact.

 

[Eric Patterson]

Yes! Creative mind there John.

 

[Mark W]

Will going full width across the top provide more strength? I am putting a 7hp long tail on it and it is probably a heavier motor than the boat was designed for.

Others have done what I'm doing and I never asked if they needed up the transom before putting in a longtail.

 

[Eric Patterson]

Mark

It will. Instead you can increase strength by putting a 2x4 on its edge and glue & screw it horizontally on the inside to that plywood you added. The longer the better and if you attach it to the sides the rigidity will go up significantly.

 

[Mark W]

Mark

It will. Instead you can increase strength by putting a 2x4 on its edge and glue & screw it horizontally on the inside to that plywood you added. The longer the better and if you attach it to the sides the rigidity will go up significantly.

Thanks Eric.

I've spoken with a couple others who put the same longtail on the Lund Ducker with good results. Neither ever did anything to the transom. On the ducker I bought the transom boards needed some work so I'm thinking beefing it up a little would hurt anything.