avery quik set blinds
- Thread starter dcahilly
- Start date
Sam
Active member
I have one. It took longer to install than the directions allowed for.
It is fairly customizable (ie length and width of boat and desired blind height).It packs up nicely. I don't even take it off in the summer as you hardly notice it is there when its all wrapped up.
I am happy with it. With the windblocker in it is quite comfortable although visibility of incoming birds low on the water is an issue (same with most blinds).
What size boat are you interested in putting one on?
It is fairly customizable (ie length and width of boat and desired blind height).It packs up nicely. I don't even take it off in the summer as you hardly notice it is there when its all wrapped up.
I am happy with it. With the windblocker in it is quite comfortable although visibility of incoming birds low on the water is an issue (same with most blinds).
What size boat are you interested in putting one on?
Cheech Kehoe
Active member
View attachment photo-6.JPGView attachment photo-5.JPG
Here a a couple of pics of the avery on an 18 Lund Alaskan. The first pic shows how it looks in the down position. The second pic shows it with the back of the blind up and the front flipped down with 2 guys standing. It took about 2 days to install and I bent it to fit the V with a pipe bender. I modified it as much as possible to get the largest tented area inside the boat. The upside is that with the wind-blocker, you are dry and comfortable no matter the weather. Also, the blind goes up and down fast and there is no "sail effect" when under power like a fixed blind would have. The blind is deadly on divers, but puddle ducks are a little harder to fool because of the tall silhouette. I find that the best thing to do is bring some fiskers with me and cut some of the surrounding brush and brush it out a little when you get set up. That makes a big difference. I had a 18' Seark with a fixed aluminum blind and I miss how well I was hidden with the fixed blind, but i do not miss trying to set decoys with a fixed blind or getting pushed around by the wind when under power. Every boat blind seems to be a compromise. Hope this helps.
Here a a couple of pics of the avery on an 18 Lund Alaskan. The first pic shows how it looks in the down position. The second pic shows it with the back of the blind up and the front flipped down with 2 guys standing. It took about 2 days to install and I bent it to fit the V with a pipe bender. I modified it as much as possible to get the largest tented area inside the boat. The upside is that with the wind-blocker, you are dry and comfortable no matter the weather. Also, the blind goes up and down fast and there is no "sail effect" when under power like a fixed blind would have. The blind is deadly on divers, but puddle ducks are a little harder to fool because of the tall silhouette. I find that the best thing to do is bring some fiskers with me and cut some of the surrounding brush and brush it out a little when you get set up. That makes a big difference. I had a 18' Seark with a fixed aluminum blind and I miss how well I was hidden with the fixed blind, but i do not miss trying to set decoys with a fixed blind or getting pushed around by the wind when under power. Every boat blind seems to be a compromise. Hope this helps.
You can easily build blind yourself for a heck of lot less money.
Take a look at my boat blind post down below, my hull is almost identical you the one you have. Probably have a $150 in it, including the netting.
[inline cerexblinddiagram.JPG ]
View attachment cerexblinddiagram.JPG
Take a look at my boat blind post down below, my hull is almost identical you the one you have. Probably have a $150 in it, including the netting.
[inline cerexblinddiagram.JPG ]
View attachment cerexblinddiagram.JPG
I used the avery quik set on a 1860 grizzly tracker. I found that if hunting windy days the blind material will blow around and inside the boat. So I put snaps along the gunnel and in the blind material to snap them down. This a must if hunting open bays. Then I built a frame to close in the front and hide the dog better along with a place to mount a offroad light. The wind blocker is a must along with the rain top. I only have the rain top on the side I don't shoot off of. And if you going to hunt puddlers then get the killerweed kit and buy 2. I do very good on geese and mallards with this setup. And you my have to ajust how high the top hoops are to beable to see over when closed.
Eric Flones
Active member
Cheech- That set up looks great. I would love to see how the dog ladder is set up. Is there a hole in the blind material?
Cheech Kehoe
Active member
Eric,
If i can find a picture, I will post it. The short answer is yes I did cut a hole in 3 sides of the blind and wind-blocker material and left the blind material attached at top. I left the top attached so I could roll it up or down, but mostly I just let it hang down and the dog pokes his head through.
Avery says the blind will fit boats up to 18'. I called avery before I bought the blind and specifically asked if there would be enough material to cover an 18' Lund Alaskan. I was told YES. I then ordered the blind and custom fit it to the Alaskan. When I went to put the wind-blocker on the frame it was obvious that the wind-blocker would not even reach the gunnel. Luckily I had a raintop leftover side, but I had to order a second set of die cut camo and when I told avery that it did not fit the did NOTHING but took my money. I cut the leftover raintop down the middle and sewed it on the bottom of the wind-blocker so that the windblocker would go down to about water level. We then marked the spot for the dog door and cut that in and Velcroed the outside of the 3 sides so the door could be Velcroed closed if wanted.
As for the dog ladder, it is version 4.0 of the original dog ladder that Seark was selling in 1999. I have cut and welded it to suit my needs. The ladder bracket clamps onto any gunnel by design. I modified the ladder to fold out of the boat perpendicular to gunnel. Because the dog ladder has a hinge point where it fold down into the water, it also folds very nicely and quickly back into the boat. The ladder can be folded through the dog door for quick cripple chasing or over the collapsed blind. I will get some pictures posted.
As for the height above gunnel, You can adjust the height by cutting down the legs evenly at the break point. This should be done after the blind is mounted and you would need to cut equal lengths from both sides of the hinge point/break point in the legs. If you wanted to lower the blind 4", you would cut 2" off each end of each leg or the blind will not fold up correctly.
And one last thing. the ball bungees that Avery sends are sharp at the bottom of the ball. This sucks when it is cold and you are trying to wrap up the blind. I bought a bunch of ball bungees and installed extras when I put the blind together. If I had it to do over, I would NOT have used any of the ball bungees that Avery sent. They suck and the other ones I bought are still working great.
If i can find a picture, I will post it. The short answer is yes I did cut a hole in 3 sides of the blind and wind-blocker material and left the blind material attached at top. I left the top attached so I could roll it up or down, but mostly I just let it hang down and the dog pokes his head through.
Avery says the blind will fit boats up to 18'. I called avery before I bought the blind and specifically asked if there would be enough material to cover an 18' Lund Alaskan. I was told YES. I then ordered the blind and custom fit it to the Alaskan. When I went to put the wind-blocker on the frame it was obvious that the wind-blocker would not even reach the gunnel. Luckily I had a raintop leftover side, but I had to order a second set of die cut camo and when I told avery that it did not fit the did NOTHING but took my money. I cut the leftover raintop down the middle and sewed it on the bottom of the wind-blocker so that the windblocker would go down to about water level. We then marked the spot for the dog door and cut that in and Velcroed the outside of the 3 sides so the door could be Velcroed closed if wanted.
As for the dog ladder, it is version 4.0 of the original dog ladder that Seark was selling in 1999. I have cut and welded it to suit my needs. The ladder bracket clamps onto any gunnel by design. I modified the ladder to fold out of the boat perpendicular to gunnel. Because the dog ladder has a hinge point where it fold down into the water, it also folds very nicely and quickly back into the boat. The ladder can be folded through the dog door for quick cripple chasing or over the collapsed blind. I will get some pictures posted.
As for the height above gunnel, You can adjust the height by cutting down the legs evenly at the break point. This should be done after the blind is mounted and you would need to cut equal lengths from both sides of the hinge point/break point in the legs. If you wanted to lower the blind 4", you would cut 2" off each end of each leg or the blind will not fold up correctly.
And one last thing. the ball bungees that Avery sends are sharp at the bottom of the ball. This sucks when it is cold and you are trying to wrap up the blind. I bought a bunch of ball bungees and installed extras when I put the blind together. If I had it to do over, I would NOT have used any of the ball bungees that Avery sent. They suck and the other ones I bought are still working great.
Cheech Kehoe
Active member
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