Freeing a seized up choke tube
- Thread starter Michael B
- Start date
Spray some lubricating oil so it sits between barrel and tube so it will soak down. Spray liberally and do it several times over a few hours. Keep it muzzle end up overnight. After one day try to free it with choke tube wrench. This did trick for me on a tube that had not been changed in many, many years.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
Is it seized up due to rust, tightened to far, or bulged due to large shot? OK if it's the first or second, not good if the last. If it was out not that long ago, it may be the last mentioned. Hope not.
andrew chaffe
Active member
if it is from rust or other build up for bikes I have had great luck with Pedros Go lube, it is soy bean based. the other trick we use for seatposts that dont want to come out is after soaking sub freezing temps and pour boiling water over it then unscrew it quickly.
bruce horning
Active member
ok,have dave mcCann,or another astute machinist spin you an arbor to slip fit down the choke tube an inch or so with step in arbor which makes full contact with only the top of the choke tube. insert the arbor and then,gently and with increasing power strike the top of the arbor with ball peen hammer until it free's up. this will work unless the barrel and tube is bulged.
bruce
bruce
Putting some kroil in a little cup and setting the barrel muzzle end down and letting it sit will often work (depending on how rusty, may wanna let it soak a few days). Putting your choke key in and clamping some vice grips will give you more leverage when twisting.
John Unruh
Active member
Michael, I have used a hair drier on hot ,heating the end of the barrel , with very good results, more than once .
John
John
steve schrat
Member
After soaking it for 2 days and also heating it up with a hair dryer I got mine free !
gary gibbs
Member
I use the same basic technique Dani and John U use with a slight difference.
Soak in Kroil for 3 days muzzle down. Each day remove from Kroil, insert choke key and GENTLY tap on key. After soaking, stuff a rag 6 in. down barrel and fill with crushed ice, and then hit the outside with hair dryer on hot. Then use Dani's choke key with vice grips method to increase leverage.
Good luck......Gibby
Soak in Kroil for 3 days muzzle down. Each day remove from Kroil, insert choke key and GENTLY tap on key. After soaking, stuff a rag 6 in. down barrel and fill with crushed ice, and then hit the outside with hair dryer on hot. Then use Dani's choke key with vice grips method to increase leverage.
Good luck......Gibby
I've never had a stuck choke tube, but I'm also not a high volume shooter. When I clean my shotguns (less often than I should), I pull the choke tube, soak (Hoppe's if it's really dirty, just a wipe with CLP if it's not), clean the choke tube threads with a nylon brush and CLP or Hoppe's. Before resinstalling, I wipe the threads with CLP.
A possible answer to Michael's question, and a follow-up question of my own? Would breech plug grease for a muzzleloader work to lube choke tubes? The fouling and heat issues seem similar.
I recently acquire my first muzzleloader and picked up a tube of breech plug grease as recommended in the owner's manual. A shotgun muzzle sees nothing like the heat, pressure, and black powder fouling at the action end of a muzzleloader, but I'd think it would work.
You can find all kinds of gun lubes and greases on line, and all kinds of opinions about how and when to use them!
Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
Jeff - One problem I have encountered with high volume waterfowl shooting with a choke tube that is not a snug fit is. The choke will unscrew on it's own, and you must pay very good attention, as I have seen guys shoot the choke tube out, when things get hot and heavy, especially for Snow geese. While the gun is empty and the barrel warm always check the choke tube
I use a very small amount of Clenzoil on my choke tubes, but even dry, the IC in my M1 likes to loosen itself after many shots. It is the only choke tube I have that does that, so I check it prior to reloading.
I am also new to the In Line muzzleloader use for deer hunting, after using a Flintlock every year since PA opened their season. So much for a In Line being primitive...
I would question the use of any type of "grease". Because the muzzle of shotguns get dirty with mud, dirt, sand, etc. and the grit in the grease would foul the threads which are much thinner than a breech plug.
Just my own experience and 2 cent worth.
I use a very small amount of Clenzoil on my choke tubes, but even dry, the IC in my M1 likes to loosen itself after many shots. It is the only choke tube I have that does that, so I check it prior to reloading.
I am also new to the In Line muzzleloader use for deer hunting, after using a Flintlock every year since PA opened their season. So much for a In Line being primitive...
I would question the use of any type of "grease". Because the muzzle of shotguns get dirty with mud, dirt, sand, etc. and the grit in the grease would foul the threads which are much thinner than a breech plug.
Just my own experience and 2 cent worth.
Agreed. I have far more problems with choke tubes loosening on me than with getting them out. I tighten every time I load or unload the gun.
Yup. It sure ain't primitive. It has been fun though. We're getting an inch or two of snow today, so I'll have tracking snow to close out my season this week. Back in the old days I could count on that during the November rifle season, but no longer.
John Unruh
Active member
Jeff ,
I shoot a fair amount of sporting clays, & I,ve used the grease that you mentioned , it doesn't,t hurt to use but for high volume shooting , pull the choke after each session of shooting , clean threads up like you mentioned works great! Now my waterfowl gun gets neglected at times , & that's where I,ve run into problems , so I keep a eye on the choke tube, like Vince said chokes loosening up can be a bigger problem . Great discussion about this .
John
I shoot a fair amount of sporting clays, & I,ve used the grease that you mentioned , it doesn't,t hurt to use but for high volume shooting , pull the choke after each session of shooting , clean threads up like you mentioned works great! Now my waterfowl gun gets neglected at times , & that's where I,ve run into problems , so I keep a eye on the choke tube, like Vince said chokes loosening up can be a bigger problem . Great discussion about this .
John
MLBob Furia
Well-known member
Bob
As a gag you could replace the contents of that with ..
As a gag you could replace the contents of that with ..
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Eric with friends like you, who needs .....?
On a much more serious note: back in the last century, my Benelli came with a bottle of choke tube lube that looks identical to a nickel based anti-seize. If i ever finish that bottle, I will simply reload it with anti-seize.
Scott
On a much more serious note: back in the last century, my Benelli came with a bottle of choke tube lube that looks identical to a nickel based anti-seize. If i ever finish that bottle, I will simply reload it with anti-seize.
Scott
Neal Haarberg
Active member
About ten years ago I went through the same thing. Rust was the issue with mine. Now at the end of the season I take the choke out clean it and the barrel thoroughly and remove the residual oil and grease. Then I take some synthetic wheel bearing grease. Can't recall the brand, but I had it laying around. Its red that's all can really say. Then I coat the choke tube and the inside of the barrel liberally with it and reinstall. Clean up the grease that squeezes out and I am good for another year. I live in the Northwest and gun gets wet nearly everytime I hunt and it sees salt water quite a bit along with the normal mud and sand and other stuff that duck gun may typically see. Since I have been doing this I have not had an issue.