Help with replacing grass rails on a south bay

S

sean kane

Active member
I am curious as to how to bend the grass rails to form with out cracking? I am using 1" x 2"x 8' oak. I don't want to steam it if I don't have to. Instead of using spacer blocks I was going to cut slots 16" long by 3/4" deep and leave two inches of spacer before the next 16" slot so it's all one piece.

Some one told me to use a heat gun and the moisture in the wood was enough to help it bend.

What about tossing it in a pool for a day, would that help? And then let it air dry in the summer sun before painting?

These are going on a south bay sneakbox.
Any other suggestions? I unfortunately don't have a template to follow so if this doesn't make sense or my slots are to long feel free to let me know!

Thank you
 
Put the rails in some water for a few hours. Install the rails & don't tighten 100% just install to get the curves you need. Let dry then remove for painting etc... then re-install. Worked for me.
 
Sean~

Anthony's advice is right on the money.

A few other thoughts, though:

1. Assuming your curve is tightest up forward, begin fastening at the bow and work your way aft. The added leverage is useful.

2. Use small diameter fasteners. Although I have used 1/4-inch in the past, I just used 3/16" on my Sneakbox. #10 is probably sufficient. The idea is to drill smaller holes through the rails to prevent splitting or cracking.

3. Are you sure you want your spaces 3/4 "high" ? I use 3/16" or 1/4" for Salt Hay (Spartina patens). Half-inch spaces would be plenty for even Cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora)

4. I keep the inside edges of my rails square (not rounded over like the outer edges) to prevent the Salt Hay from working its way out in use/on the highway. With 3/4-inch slots, I would be inclined to lash each bundle of Hay to the rails.

Hope this helps!

SJS
 
1x2 oak seems a little heavy to me. I made mine 1/2 x 3/4 and worked fine. Soaked in a pvc pipe. Made a jig out of scrap 2x8 and other scraps. Marked the curve and bent it a little at a time. I over bent the curve so it would not crack when when i drilled and installed it. Did the same with the spray shield.
Next time I do it I would heat the drill area and epoxy with West System.
 
3/4" of hay is too much, that stuff gets heavy when wet.
I eventually did away with grass rails, way too much work for me,lol. I now use 1/4"or 5/16" bungee dyed black, run through tv cable screw on clamps. pick bungee up, drop grass in, let bungee down. done.
you use half the grass, and it's easy to add more, or some other veggies anytime.
 
sean, I soak wood a couple of days. I start by laying rail on rub rail flange grain flat. I tie the 2 rails about a foot to foot half apart at bow then go to transom an put another rope around the end. I then draw the ends in slow. you might need to clamp rail in center on both sides to keep them from riding up off rub rail when desired bend is made let stand a few days it will dry to shape of boat. I use 10 32 screws with quarter inch nylon spacers all bought at ace.
 
steve, 1/2 ht. by 1 in I have been using clear cca 5/4 decking been playing around with trex decking leave in sun bends like a wet noodle. I'm doing the same process as you. I'm rounding over top of rail with router but I use belt sander to take edge off bottom just a touch just to keep splinters down and edge checking. my spacing is 12 in with 1/4 ht spacer 1/2 in round. I like these nylon spacers their is no space between salt hay when laying on boat.
 
Stopped at St Michaels in MD and went to the museum. They were steaming up some small pieces on a project. They had turkey fryer burner with a metal gas can [cleaned] hooked to a hose into 6" pvc. Ends had rag stuffed in loose to let out build up. Worked really well.
When I replace my grass rails, I'm going to try it. Simple and cheap. Can be made to length. Pvc will get soft, has to be supported.
 
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