Building a Gunning Coffin

SJ Fairbank

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My family traditionally used the coffin style layout for hunting the Spartina grass marshes in New England. The coffin is quite simple, not nearly as refined as the Steve Sanford boxes.

Black ducks are the number one puddle duck target species, well known for their wariness. A good hide is critical as the hunter is sitting in grass no more than 18" tall, but it also has to be watertight as the top of flood tide typically sees several inches to a foot of water on the marsh. I can't say the coffin is any better than other designs, other than I enjoy being able to take a seat on the aft deck when things are slow. Plus the aft enclosure keeps your feet warm on super cold days, and provides a solid rest for the gun while one naps. :cool: The negative is that large boots are longer than the 11.5"

Because they're simple and relatively inexpensive to build, I like to build them in pairs. Then you have a spare if your buddy wants to hunt, or one flies off the trailer on the way home. Enough on that subject.:oops:

So the general dimensions are 7' long x 32" wide inside (33.5" outside). For simplicity of construction there's no bending wood aside from affixing the plywood to the upturned bow. The sides are 1" x 12" pine all around, (except the bow) because the bottom and sides get a glass sheathing I use #3 pine for cost. Plywood is 1/4" CDX, screwed and glued to the frame. In the past I've used Weldwood, epoxy and plain old carpenters glue. This time I had a supply of Gorilla glue on hand so we'll see how it does. The coffins typically only last me a couple of years because they take a beating and are stored outside, so I'm not making a lifetime boat. I haven't tried to extend the longevity, I think because I enjoy making them. I can get two boxes to the point of completion seen in the photos (this and the following post) in about four hours. There is a lot more work to be done, and I haven't given any thought to canvas yet.

The photos are pretty self explanatory, these boats are simple. I cut the sides in pairs with a jigsaw, the clean up the curve with a sanding block. The curve begins roughly 24" from the bow, I just eyeball a pleasing curve along whatever thin scrap I have on hand. The one important consideration is that the curve be tangent to the flat bottom or the plywood will buckle and crack. The bow is about 5" deep, a 6" piece of pine (really 5.5" of course) has a bevel on the bottom to match the curve. One pass on the table saw does the trick.

The 1x3 on the bottom will serve as the headrest block, but also serves to stiffen the frame while attaching the bottom. It's placed just aft of the beginning of the bottom curve.

Both the bow and stern are reinforced with a scrap piece of pine where lines will be affixed. I like to drill a pair of holes 6" or so apart so a loop can be left on the outside, handy for carrying.

The deck extends 36" from the stern. I don't think there's any magic in that measurement, but it's easy to remember. There's reinforcement for it along the leading edge, not seen in the photos.

The weather was lousey this weekend so I had to work in the garage. The photos are kind of dark, hopefully I can work outside in the next couple of weeks and show additional progress.




Coffin side layout.jpgCoffin side cutout.jpgCoffin frame.jpg
 
Great work! Gunning boxes are very popular around here we refer to em as "Sanford Boxes" If you haven't seen Steve's creations yet here's a look: Steven J Sanford Gunning Box Story Ken from NJ also makes some great boxes as well. Ron Banks even sold some as "sleds converted to boxes with a riveted top. I recently purchased a Dave Clark Fiberglass one have to say out of the many boxes my family has this one tops the charts..
Screenshot 2024-08-19 at 9.01.39 AM.png
3B245C41-7C77-4ED5-9012-9A599F6D40ED.jpg
432963133_10230267683931695_6840102591963188894_n.jpg

Here is the Dave Clark Box.

Screenshot 2024-08-19 at 9.06.28 AM.png
 
Anthony,

I built a couple of boxes from Steve's early plans in the 80's or early 90's. Or I should say, my interpretation of what he built as I didn't have a set of plans per se. They were ok, maybe if I built a couple more I'd improve my technique and like them more. I keep going back to the old family design, nostalgia I guess. Plus I know how to crank them out. I have not typically rigged them with canvas, just throw a bunch of rack and flotsam on top and cover your face. The plan is to rig these boxes with a cover just for giggles. I haven't worked out just how they will look.

I tried modifying Jet Sleds similar to those in your photo in the ice. Or are those the kit model LSB was selling? Jet Sleds were a little short for my liking, although that was some years ago and there are some larger models now. I may try those next year.
 
Great work! Gunning boxes are very popular around here we refer to em as "Sanford Boxes" If you haven't seen Steve's creations yet here's a look: Steven J Sanford Gunning Box Story Ken from NJ also makes some great boxes as well. Ron Banks even sold some as "sleds converted to boxes with a riveted top. I recently purchased a Dave Clark Fiberglass one have to say out of the many boxes my family has this one tops the charts..
View attachment 57306
View attachment 57307
View attachment 57308

Here is the Dave Clark Box.

View attachment 57309
Anthony, how much does the Dave Clark style weigh ? I'm assuming its all glass or am I wrong?
 
My family traditionally used the coffin style layout for hunting the Spartina grass marshes in New England. The coffin is quite simple, not nearly as refined as the Steve Sanford boxes.

Black ducks are the number one puddle duck target species, well known for their wariness. A good hide is critical as the hunter is sitting in grass no more than 18" tall, but it also has to be watertight as the top of flood tide typically sees several inches to a foot of water on the marsh. I can't say the coffin is any better than other designs, other than I enjoy being able to take a seat on the aft deck when things are slow. Plus the aft enclosure keeps your feet warm on super cold days, and provides a solid rest for the gun while one naps. :cool: The negative is that large boots are longer than the 11.5"

Because they're simple and relatively inexpensive to build, I like to build them in pairs. Then you have a spare if your buddy wants to hunt, or one flies off the trailer on the way home. Enough on that subject.:oops:

So the general dimensions are 7' long x 32" wide inside (33.5" outside). For simplicity of construction there's no bending wood aside from affixing the plywood to the upturned bow. The sides are 1" x 12" pine all around, (except the bow) because the bottom and sides get a glass sheathing I use #3 pine for cost. Plywood is 1/4" CDX, screwed and glued to the frame. In the past I've used Weldwood, epoxy and plain old carpenters glue. This time I had a supply of Gorilla glue on hand so we'll see how it does. The coffins typically only last me a couple of years because they take a beating and are stored outside, so I'm not making a lifetime boat. I haven't tried to extend the longevity, I think because I enjoy making them. I can get two boxes to the point of completion seen in the photos (this and the following post) in about four hours. There is a lot more work to be done, and I haven't given any thought to canvas yet.

The photos are pretty self explanatory, these boats are simple. I cut the sides in pairs with a jigsaw, the clean up the curve with a sanding block. The curve begins roughly 24" from the bow, I just eyeball a pleasing curve along whatever thin scrap I have on hand. The one important consideration is that the curve be tangent to the flat bottom or the plywood will buckle and crack. The bow is about 5" deep, a 6" piece of pine (really 5.5" of course) has a bevel on the bottom to match the curve. One pass on the table saw does the trick.

The 1x3 on the bottom will serve as the headrest block, but also serves to stiffen the frame while attaching the bottom. It's placed just aft of the beginning of the bottom curve.

Both the bow and stern are reinforced with a scrap piece of pine where lines will be affixed. I like to drill a pair of holes 6" or so apart so a loop can be left on the outside, handy for carrying.

The deck extends 36" from the stern. I don't think there's any magic in that measurement, but it's easy to remember. There's reinforcement for it along the leading edge, not seen in the photos.

The weather was lousey this weekend so I had to work in the garage. The photos are kind of dark, hopefully I can work outside in the next couple of weeks and show additional progress.




View attachment 57285View attachment 57286View attachment 57287
Looks great! What HP motor is it rated for ?!?!?!?
 
Looks great! What HP motor is it rated for ?!?!?!?
Ha! A motor would be a hoot. Brings to mind those crazy videos of a kid in a 10' boat with a 90, porpoising like crazy. I have braved the crossing of small creeks in this style, maybe 15' across. Push off on one side, grab for the grass on the other. No oars, paddles etc. We were all young once. :)
 
Anthony,

I built a couple of boxes from Steve's early plans in the 80's or early 90's. Or I should say, my interpretation of what he built as I didn't have a set of plans per se. They were ok, maybe if I built a couple more I'd improve my technique and like them more. I keep going back to the old family design, nostalgia I guess. Plus I know how to crank them out. I have not typically rigged them with canvas, just throw a bunch of rack and flotsam on top and cover your face. The plan is to rig these boxes with a cover just for giggles. I haven't worked out just how they will look.

I tried modifying Jet Sleds similar to those in your photo in the ice. Or are those the kit model LSB was selling? Jet Sleds were a little short for my liking, although that was some years ago and there are some larger models now. I may try those next year.
Those are actually sleds made by Michael Banks. He used to bring these to Tuckerton, NJ every year as Sleds and they would sell very well. With client feedback he designed a top cover and riveted that to the sled design making a complete fiberglass wt gelcoat style box.

IMG_4487.jpeg
 
Anthony,

Thank you, I was wondering where I had seen them. One regret I have is not visiting their shop, and buying a boat. They made great quality boats. I hope the new owner is faithful to the build quality.
 
SJ, I like your philosophy. Build, Beat to death,Burn pile... Build another one. I've enjoyed the ones i've built. Mostly Steve's design.
 
SJ~

Nice boxes! As with any gunning boat - or decoy - or firearm, et cetera - this is rarely one perfect answer. Nevertheless, I thought I should jump into this thread. Here is one of my gunning coffins as I've refined it since my first models. Improvements include the 2 rows of shock cord - instead of the earlier webbing - and real canvas (Sunbrella in this case) upgraded from my original burlap. All that's missing in this photo is the pair of webbing handles either side of the cockpit for lifting. I locate these by balancing the 'box on a single saw horse.

19. Shock cord fully installed - ready for thatch..jpg

Bundles of "thatch" - be it Salt Hay or cornstalks - get lashed to both rows with sisal twine - because it's biodegradable. I use a square knot (aka reef knot to sailors). The benefit of the shock cord is that it allows the thatch to move during use so it is less likely to break off.

24. Tie a square knot over each lashing - do this another 100 times and you're done!.jpg

My full building instructions are on my site:

https://stevenjaysanford.com/sanford-gunning-box/

One recent change is a slight refinement of the dimensions of the floor and sides: slightly wider up forward and with less upsweep in the bow.

2017 Floor and Side Dimensions - with TEXT.jpg

This is a closer look. These changes make bending the inwales, sides and floor significantly easier during assembly - and add a bit more shoulder width.

2017 Side Dimensions - details - with TEXT.jpg

Two last thoughts:

1. From my original conception, I have wanted to have a 'box that was easy to enter and exit - thus the canvas open all the way to the foot. Enclosed boxes I have tried are too confining for me.

2. In grassboats or gunning boxes I want my backrest (really a neck/shoulder rest) to be either fixed (as in my coffins) or easily and quickly set to the proper (comfortable with good visibility) angle.

Gunning coffins have been around a long time - and will always have a place in this grand passion of ours.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve,

Yours are beautiful boxes, refined far beyond mine. I build mine seat of the pants, the basic frames are similar each time but the finish is always a little different. I had planned to fit these with dodgers but am having second thoughts. As I mentioned above, we typically don't attach canvas, simply tossing a bunch of wrack on top. They are also quite heavy in comparison to yours, I was reminded of that when I glassed the sides and bottom. I'm getting to old to lug a heavy box around, and grassed canvas just adds to the misery. So I think I'll try one of Diane's covers, at 6' they should be just the right length. They appear to have grass loops, maybe it'll be worth grassing them rather than "customizing" every trip. I enjoy experimenting.
 
SJ~

Nice boxes! As with any gunning boat - or decoy - or firearm, et cetera - this is rarely one perfect answer. Nevertheless, I thought I should jump into this thread. Here is one of my gunning coffins as I've refined it since my first models. Improvements include the 2 rows of shock cord - instead of the earlier webbing - and real canvas (Sunbrella in this case) upgraded from my original burlap. All that's missing in this photo is the pair of webbing handles either side of the cockpit for lifting. I locate these by balancing the 'box on a single saw horse.

View attachment 57499

Bundles of "thatch" - be it Salt Hay or cornstalks - get lashed to both rows with sisal twine - because it's biodegradable. I use a square knot (aka reef knot to sailors). The benefit of the shock cord is that it allows the thatch to move during use so it is less likely to break off.

View attachment 57500

My full building instructions are on my site:

https://stevenjaysanford.com/sanford-gunning-box/

One recent change is a slight refinement of the dimensions of the floor and sides: slightly wider up forward and with less upsweep in the bow.

View attachment 57503

This is a closer look. These changes make bending the inwales, sides and floor significantly easier during assembly - and add a bit more shoulder width.

View attachment 57504

Two last thoughts:

1. From my original conception, I have wanted to have a 'box that was easy to enter and exit - thus the canvas open all the way to the foot. Enclosed boxes I have tried are too confining for me.

2. In grassboats or gunning boxes I want my backrest (really a neck/shoulder rest) to be either fixed (as in my coffins) or easily and quickly set to the proper (comfortable with good visibility) angle.

Gunning coffins have been around a long time - and will always have a place in this grand passion of ours.

All the best,

SJS
Although I like the idea an appearance of an enclosed deck over ones lower half when laid out gunnin the bx needs to be built with enough height and deck crown for big booted feet so one doesn,t have to be uncomfortable with splayed out legs during hunt. I,m assuming with the way your design are covered in canvas thats not an issue as the covering would have a good amount of give to it.
 
Roy,

You are correct, it's a tight fit for my boots. They do need to tipped a bit to fit. I tried leaving an open area in the deck on one build version. It bothered me looking at the boots sticking up. I had the uncomfortable feeling I might shoot my toes off. One positive to a deck is that it provides a brace to help sit up to shoot.
 
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