Vintage duck boat

Stef Mitrega

New member
I’ve recently acquired this boat from a lady in Rexton N.B. Canada. She IMG_5867.jpegsays her father and mother hunted out of it quite often. She thinks it is 90 years old.
I am planning on bringing it back to its former glory and get it back out hunting.
Does anyone recognize this type of boat. It is 12 ft long and very solid
 
Duckbuddy~

Based on: A. overall shape (spoon bow, square transom); B. folding oarlock stanchions; C. rounded toe-rail for a canvas spray curtain (aka breakwater"); D. short (less-than 6-feet) cockpit: Sure looks like a sheer-sided (as opposed to feather-edge) Barnegat Bay Sneakbox to my eye. Sweet vessel!

To get a better ID - especially from Jersey members here - it would be helpful to have:

1. LOA (length over all), Beam (at maximum width). Also, dimensions of cockpit could be helpful. lt ooks like it's not a true rectangle - but side coamings are curved (bent) lengthwise to mirror the curve of of the gunwale - an elegant feature to my eye!

2. View of bottom. Any "ice runners" or skeg? A good profile-view would also be useful - to determine whether she is displacemernt or planing hull.

3. View from bow head-on - to show hull shape. Is bottom an arc or V-shaped?

4. View from transom head-on - to show hull shape, as above.

5. Construction material: Planked (probably White Cedar? Plywood? Strip Built? Has she been 'glassed?

6. Construction method/framing: Are the frames bent (steamed), sawn from solid lumber (probably White Cedar) or plywood?

BTW: Bob Keeney recently posted here an article (The Barnegat Bay Sneakbox) he wrote. Other sources include Howard Chappelle (American Small Sailing Craft); Zack Taylor (Successful Waterfowling); John Gardiner (Building Classic Small Craft); Peter Guthorn (The Jersey Sea Skiff and other...)

BTW2: Where are you located?

Congratulations on a nice find!

SJS
 
Duckbuddy~

Based on: A. overall shape (spoon bow, square transom); B. folding oarlock stanchions; C. rounded toe-rail for a canvas spray curtain (aka breakwater"); D. short (less-than 6-feet) cockpit: Sure looks like a sheer-sided (as opposed to feather-edge) Barnegat Bay Sneakbox to my eye. Sweet vessel!

To get a better ID - especially from Jersey members here - it would be helpful to have:

1. LOA (length over all), Beam (at maximum width). Also, dimensions of cockpit could be helpful. lt ooks like it's not a true rectangle - but side coamings are curved (bent) lengthwise to mirror the curve of of the gunwale - an elegant feature to my eye!

2. View of bottom. Any "ice runners" or skeg? A good profile-view would also be useful - to determine whether she is displacemernt or planing hull.

3. View from bow head-on - to show hull shape. Is bottom an arc or V-shaped?

4. View from transom head-on - to show hull shape, as above.

5. Construction material: Planked (probably White Cedar? Plywood? Strip Built? Has she been 'glassed?

6. Construction method/framing: Are the frames bent (steamed), sawn from solid lumber (probably White Cedar) or plywood?

BTW: Bob Keeney recently posted here an article (The Barnegat Bay Sneakbox) he wrote. Other sources include Howard Chappelle (American Small Sailing Craft); Zack Taylor (Successful Waterfowling); John Gardiner (Building Classic Small Craft); Peter Guthorn (The Jersey Sea Skiff and other...)

BTW2: Where are you located?

Congratulations on a nice find!

SJS
Thank you
The lady did say she thought it was a Barnegat Bay…
I’ll look it over and try to figure out how its built. Definitely plywood on top and strips underneath. Not « glassed ». (Is there another option to make it seaworthy?)
I’ll take some better pics
 
I’ve recently acquired this boat from a lady in Rexton N.B. Canada. She View attachment 59539says her father and mother hunted out of it quite often. She thinks it is 90 years old.
I am planning on bringing it back to its former glory and get it back out hunting.
Does anyone recognize this type of boat. It is 12 ft long and very solid
Welcome!
That's a pretty cool looking boat. I'd never thought of that camo pattern before! The Land Of The Setting Sun... We're they from Norway? Just kidding. By the way we use our real names here. Of course if your name is Buddy or Duck it's all good. Not trying to be a jerk. Can't wait to see your boat when it's done.
 
I sure would appreciate it if you would follow the stated rule when you signed up and use your real name. You can edit your username after you've been registered a day. I wish you could immediately but I have not figured out a way to get the forum software to allow it.

The article Steve referred to is found at the link below.

 
Most interesting paint job I have ever seen on a duck boat!
How’s the wood? As long as there is no rot, shouldn’t take much to get her ready.
 
Interesting photos....

The interior shots show she was built very traditionally, with carvel planking, not strip built. Carvel planking is where each plank butts tight to its neighbor - as opposed to lapstrake (aka "clinker-built") where each plank overlaps the upper edge of its neighbor. These 2 methods require very careful shaping of each plank.

Strip-building uses narrow strips (usually about an inch wide) that are nailed edgewise to each other.

Your planks - and frames - are probably White Cedar (Atlantic White Cedar v. Northern White Cedar). Your frames - both deck beams and floors - are sawn, not steamed. Each frame is sawn to a simple radius; such Sneakboxes are known as "arc-bottomed" (whereas some have a bit of U-shape to them). Again, this is the most prevalent construction for Barnegats. As the gussets and struts on each frame are lumber and not plywood, a pre-WW II build date seems likely.

I wonder if the plywood decks are original. Plywood did not become readily available until after WW II. Many traditionally planked small craft - including gunning boats - covered the planking with painted canvas to keep them watertight - especially when exposed to a drying sun. Perhaps cedar planking was replaced with plywood at some point over the boat's lifetime.

Your photo of the transom has me baffled. What am I looking at? The dark area in the middle of the reddish transom looks like a tunnel. (Which I know of only in much larger inboards used in shallow waters.) Got another photo of the transom that illuminates the area/shape?

re getting her in shape: Most gunners 'glassed Sneakbox hulls once the technology became available post WW II. Nevertheless, your vessel could be watertight as is - or at least once she was allowed to soak up some moisture - saltwater is best - to swell the planks and close any open seams. The decks, too, could be watertight - or made to be so with a bit of attention. Bear in mind, though, that traditionally-built boats were designed to live in or near water - and not on a trailer. Glass makes trailering traditional vessels a reasonable proposition.

If it were my boat, I would likely:

1) Glass the whole vessel top and bottom - with cloth (weight depends on hull condition) set in epoxy.

2) Sew a spray dodger and make a pole to support it.

3) Replace all the steel/iron hardware with galvanized or s/s (or bronze if you're lucky or wealthy). Some pieces - like lifting handles on bow or stern - can be made from wood. I just made this bow handle from White Oak (mounted on a treated lumber thatch rail):

sm Forward Lifting Handle .JPG

4) Make a new motor board that would safely and soundly support any outboard you wanted to put on her. If you plan to row, I'd remove the existing motor board altogether.

5) Decide if you want thatch rails or other means of fastening "camouflage" to the decks.

6) Add minor features like backrest, shelf, gun rest, lap cover, et cetera once you decide how you will hunt her.

Hope this helps!

SJS
 
Interesting photos....

The interior shots show she was built very traditionally, with carvel planking, not strip built. Carvel planking is where each plank butts tight to its neighbor - as opposed to lapstrake (aka "clinker-built") where each plank overlaps the upper edge of its neighbor. These 2 methods require very careful shaping of each plank.

Strip-building uses narrow strips (usually about an inch wide) that are nailed edgewise to each other.

Your planks - and frames - are probably White Cedar (Atlantic White Cedar v. Northern White Cedar). Your frames - both deck beams and floors - are sawn, not steamed. Each frame is sawn to a simple radius; such Sneakboxes are known as "arc-bottomed" (whereas some have a bit of U-shape to them). Again, this is the most prevalent construction for Barnegats. As the gussets and struts on each frame are lumber and not plywood, a pre-WW II build date seems likely.

I wonder if the plywood decks are original. Plywood did not become readily available until after WW II. Many traditionally planked small craft - including gunning boats - covered the planking with painted canvas to keep them watertight - especially when exposed to a drying sun. Perhaps cedar planking was replaced with plywood at some point over the boat's lifetime.

Your photo of the transom has me baffled. What am I looking at? The dark area in the middle of the reddish transom looks like a tunnel. (Which I know of only in much larger inboards used in shallow waters.) Got another photo of the transom that illuminates the area/shape?

re getting her in shape: Most gunners 'glassed Sneakbox hulls once the technology became available post WW II. Nevertheless, your vessel could be watertight as is - or at least once she was allowed to soak up some moisture - saltwater is best - to swell the planks and close any open seams. The decks, too, could be watertight - or made to be so with a bit of attention. Bear in mind, though, that traditionally-built boats were designed to live in or near water - and not on a trailer. Glass makes trailering traditional vessels a reasonable proposition.

If it were my boat, I would likely:

1) Glass the whole vessel top and bottom - with cloth (weight depends on hull condition) set in epoxy.

2) Sew a spray dodger and make a pole to support it.

3) Replace all the steel/iron hardware with galvanized or s/s (or bronze if you're lucky or wealthy). Some pieces - like lifting handles on bow or stern - can be made from wood. I just made this bow handle from White Oak (mounted on a treated lumber thatch rail):

View attachment 59597

4) Make a new motor board that would safely and soundly support any outboard you wanted to put on her. If you plan to row, I'd remove the existing motor board altogether.

5) Decide if you want thatch rails or other means of fastening "camouflage" to the decks.

6) Add minor features like backrest, shelf, gun rest, lap cover, et cetera once you decide how you will hunt her.

Hope this helps!

SJS
 
That's gorgeous Doug fir plywood - probably marine quality.

BTW: To remove the rest of that paint, I would use a paint remover (paste) and a nice scraper - sharpened frequently with a file. After cleanup (as per directions with your product), an orbital sander with 120-grit will give a nice clean surface - for either epoxy + 'glass cloth or new paint ( a flat oil).

All the best,

SJS
 
Now that you have shown me the bottom....

I would remove most of that paint with a torch - a traditional paint removal method largely forgotten. It is definitely an outside chore - for the sake of your lungs - but much more enjoyable than chemical paint remover (which I would still use of your decks). Just heat a few square inches of the paint until it bubbles, then remove the "skin" with a putty knife. Keep a damp rag handy at all times to pat out any errant flames. Try not to scorch the exposed wood. When most of the paint is now dried flakes sitting in a bucket, clean off the entire hull with a sharp scraper.

All the best,

SJS
 
Now that you have shown me the bottom....

I would remove most of that paint with a torch - a traditional paint removal method largely forgotten. It is definitely an outside chore - for the sake of your lungs - but much more enjoyable than chemical paint remover (which I would still use of your decks). Just heat a few square inches of the paint until it bubbles, then remove the "skin" with a putty knife. Keep a damp rag handy at all times to pat out any errant flames. Try not to scorch the exposed wood. When most of the paint is now dried flakes sitting in a bucket, clean off the entire hull with a sharp scraper.

All the best,

SJS
Thanks for the advice. I’ll post pics as I proceed
 
View attachment 59680Could my boat possibly be one of these?
Stef~

Pretty sure it's not - but I always defer to Jersey boys on Barnegat matters.

As it happens, I helped a friend buy a Van Sant a few years ago at Tuckerton - and I did some restoration work on it:

sm VanSant 01.JPG

I see 2 important differences. Your vessel is sheer-sided - whereas the Van Sants are feather-edged. On your boat, the deck and bottom meet at a side; the deck joins the side at the gunwale and the bottom meets the side at the chine.

sm VanSant 02.JPG

The other difference is the sheer line. On your vessel, the sheer appears to be straight/flat fore and aft. On the Van Sant, the sheer sweeps up gently toward the bow. (In fact, the sheer on most traditional boats is usually lowest about a third of the way forward from the transom.)

There were (and still are) many makers of Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes - each with their own ideas about what is "best". The differences are often subtle.

Keep looking!

SJS
 
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