Decoys Unlimited Instructions

Decoys Unlimited Instructions

Expandable Polystyrene beads. They are available. Some folks use two part foam instead. Several folks on this site have a lot of experience doing this. Hopefully they chime in with more info.
 
Expandable Polystyrene beads. They are available. Some folks use two part foam instead. Several folks on this site have a lot of experience doing this. Hopefully they chime in with more info.
Eric~

Years (decades, I guess...) ago I re-painted some very nice Canada decoys made with these molds but will closed-cell urethane foam. They were very tough and took paint well.

I have no molding experience - but Dave Diefenderfer is fast becoming The Expert.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve

He absolutely is. I hope to lean on him when I put my molds to work. They will live on the shelf for now. Too many long range projects must be completed before I launch into something new. But I have that diver mold I've wanted for years so when I'm ready so is it.
 
What is used in them for the foam, are the original ingredients still available?
I use a lot of their molds. Most of my uprights come from decoy unlimited molds. I have an unfinished diver body mold that was half machined for the screw on top. I plan on threading and finding the 1.5" thread cap to put in it and start making divers next year. I will definitely keep using them, but starting to move onto other mold making and custom stuff. I have some carves coming that I will make molds out of and cast foam that way.

In these instructions they are talking about EPS beads. You can still buy them, it is the foam that you see with white foam cups. You put them in the mold, boil them for so much time, and they expand and fuse together. Out comes a decoy mold. I use 2 part urethane with Cammie 980 release agent. This release agent takes rustoleum paint really well and I do not have to put any sanding on the foam to get paint to stick. I like 2 part urethane because it is quick. I can cast a foam body in about 5 minutes. With EPS beads you have to have a big tub to boil water, use a heating source (usually a propane burner), run that until water is boiling and then I believe it takes 5-10 min (do not quote me on this, as I have only watched videos and cannot remember what those videos stated but I have never actually played with EPS beads) in boiling water for beads to expand. Takes too much time and there is additional cost in propane and time lost in waiting for water to boil.

The pros to eps beads, no need for release agent. Cons - time and extra costs to make a mold

The pros to urethane foam, quick easy casting, also different variations of foam strengths (2 lb, 4 lb, 8 lb, etc etc). The heavier the foam, the more durable but less expansion. Cons - release agents can make it difficult to paint. Cammie 980 is a winner for how I paint though, and I can pull from the mold and instantly start applying rusto paint if I wanted to and it would take without issue. Some people have stated they have to wash their foam molds with dawn soap and water and let dry for a day to paint.

Dave Diefenderfer has helped open my eyes to making molds with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Just got some in the mail yesterday and plan on trying his technique on the next mold I make. I had a carver make me a generic body so I could practice making a mold. I used silicone and hardened plaster, but Dave uses fiberglass and it looks much cleaner. I plan on adopting his technique for this process.

Here are some pics of uprights that came from a decoys unlimited mold and some skimmers that I made from a custom mold I made. Look at the plaster and how ugly it looks. I dont like that and plan on using fiberglass instead to hold the silicone mold. Hope this helps.
 

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Also, just a little thought here, but I am making fully flocked, double coated, decoys for about 1/2 the price fully flocked decoys could be bought for. Sure there is time involved but I am not making decoys to sell. I am doing this as a hobby and something enjoyable in my life. So time doesnt get factored into this. My decoys are magnum size decoys. They could easily double as snow goose floaters or cackler floaters.

I buy foam on amazon. A gallon of part a and part b costs me $120. One kit will cast 25-26 dozen decoys. So 2 dozen for $120. Flocking is a bit pricey but I made ~6 dozen decoys this summer and only bought 2 lbs of flocking in black and gray. So it lasts forever when applied correctly and every decoy gets two coats of flocking (learned that from Don Mintz) and it almost has a sandpaper texture on that second coat. Surely stands up much better than any electrostatic flocking that these big companies use on their decoys. Then there is the rustoleum paint, and its a bit pricey but again, it lasts a good while as well. I lost more paint to hot temps in the shop than from running out from using it up. I do hand paint with gloss gray for my flocking process, so naturally I use a lot more gray than any other color. After the flocking is done, then I airbrush the rest of the bird for the detail and use oz's of paint comparatively. It is hard to run out of paint airbrushing. I plan on using an old cooler to hold my paint and will put in an ice gel pack during the hot months next year to keep paint from going bad.

The other option for foam decoys is restle coating. Most that restle coat use titebond3 glue, but I did find that Cammie 980 and titebond3 do not get along very well. I did my snow goose restle coat with the rustoleum paint. It looked a bit odd at first but it actually ended up working out pretty well. I will do a few things different when I do my next batch of snow geese but these will be the only birds I do not flock. I dont even plan on bagging my snows, just toss em in a trailer and get on with it. So restle coat it is. I also am using a decoy unlimited full body mold for these bodies. I figured out my own way to make a stake holder. I plan on making my own fiberglass stakes for my full body decoys as well, but thats an entirely different process and technique.
 

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