Wood or Webbing? - thatch rail decisions

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~

I suppose I am known as an Old School fellow - and I cannot deny that characterization - even embrace it. Nevertheless, I try to keep an open mind and am always on the lookout for true improvements - or at least sound alternatives. Thus, I have put webbing on recent duckboat restorations instead of the traditional wooden thatch rails.

I have been around Salt Hay (aka "thatch" on Great South Bay) and thatch rails all my life. I have come to the conclusion that they were probably "invented" on Long Island, sometime in the 1900s. Among the many vessel types we put into the "grassboat" category, I have never seen one on LI without thatch rails. Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes may have had toe rails - to keep hay or wrack or ice - on the deck for hiding - and I see no long-term evidence of rails on gunning boats from New England. (Of course, I am always happy to be shown evidence otherwise - and imagine that thatch rails - whatever they are called - may have been developed independently in more than one locale: convergent evolution.)

I have replaced thatch rails with wooden - either treated lumber (carefully selected for grain) and Mahogany on dozens of gunning boats over the years. Here is my Sneakbox RED-LEG with its new Mahogany thatch rails (but tightly curved toe rail for the spray dodger is PVC).

sm RED-LEG Portrait 1.JPG

Here is a South Bay Duckboat I rehabbed in early '23 - all the rails of conventional wood - with glued-on spacer blocks.

sm 7 Tuffin South Bay - portrait 4.jpg

I just completed this South Bay with wooden thatch rails only down the center line - but with polypropylene webbing elsewhere.

sm Tolmie South Bay from sabove - showing webbing.JPG

This is the first boat I did with webbing. (The rows of heavy tarred line on the frames have bundles of hay lashed to them).

sm Wrangler 4 - Shooting Frames up - head viz frame height.jpg

Here it is all thatched up:

Scott Amberman Duck Invader - cropped.jpg

I have long used webbing for other duckboat purposes. Here it is on the RED-LEG's spray dodger: - sewn on

D 28.jpg

Here on an outboard cover. For both the dodger and the motor cover, bundles of hay get lashed to the webbing.

20 Tilt.JPG

And I have departed from wood-for-thatch elsewhere. Two rows of shock cord hold the thatch on my gunning coffins in recent years:

sm Shock cord fully installed - ready for thatch..jpg

Scores (hundreds?) of bundles of Salt Hay get lashed to both rows with biodegradable twine. I use square (aka reef) knots for this task.

sm  Start lashing to the shock cord with one end over and the other end under the cord..jpg

I have been told that webbing has been used on Marsh Hawk brand duckboats for many years. One owner told me he has had 17 seasons with the originals. I have also learned (not sure how or where) that polypropylene is better than nylon for this use. I use heavyweight 1-inch polypropylene in Khaki. It comes in several duckboat-compatible hues from Strapworks. https://www.strapworks.com/1-inch-heavyweight-polypropylene-khaki

I fasten every 10 or 12 inches - with a s/s fender washer and either self-tapping panheads - or panhead machine screws backed up below with a standard washer and a Nyloc nut. I sand each washer with 220-grit paper, wash with acetone, then spray with self-etching primer. The screws I rinse in acetone then spray.

sm Jankowski - Supplies for Webbing.JPG

A closer look for dimensions:

sm Jankowski - Webbing hardware.JPG

I "bore" the fastener holes with a heated 16-penny finishing nail - held with a Vise-Grip. I cut the ends with my favorite new toy: a good quality hot knife. I double the ends, hold them with a spring clamp, then poke the red-hot nail through. I "stir" the nail around to be sure the hole is large enough for the #10 fasteners.

sm Jankowski - Webbing and ViseGrips and 16d nail and Bernzomatic.JPG

On flap boards, I use brass machine screws - and sand the ends flush after tightening to avoid wear and tear on gunners' hands and dogs' noses. Of course, the slots in the screw heads must be "calendared" - so they all align lest they flare Old Mister Black Duck. BTW: I do not bother to paint raw brass, no matter how shiny. It will turn a gorgeous bronze of verdigris soon enough.

sm Tolmie = Shock Cord in keeper on flapboard.JPG

Wooden thatch rails remain a thing of beauty. But - they are more expensive for both materials and labor.

sm MSS 10A sm Thatch Rails 01.JPG

As with anything, attention-to-detail is its own reward.

sm MSS 10B sm Thatch Rails 02.JPG

I am sure I have not made my last wooden thatch rails - and will certainly make more of those down the center line of just about any gunning boat where cleats, eye bolts, light stanchions and grab handles all need a good foundation...

sm Tolmie 30 - Bow Section only.JPG

...but webbing has earned a place on gunning vessels, in my view.

Hope this helps!

SJS
 
The wood is beautiful but 3/8" o.d. shock cord ran thru nylon pad eyes about every 2' Is very functional as either a place to zip tie grass bundles or a place to zip tie a plastic bird netting base to attach rafia or other materials to. You webbing works as well.
 
The wood is beautiful but 3/8" o.d. shock cord ran thru nylon pad eyes about every 2' Is very functional as either a place to zip tie grass bundles or a place to zip tie a plastic bird netting base to attach rafia or other materials to. You webbing works as well.
Roy~

I have wanted to try that very approach on an actual duckboat. One real benefit I've seen on my coffins is that the shock cord allows the hay to move a bit - and so wears better throughout a long season. I wonder if I dare use it on the traditional Barnegat I'll be restoring for Tuckerton next year....

All the best,

SJS
 
Roy~

I have wanted to try that very approach on an actual duckboat. One real benefit I've seen on my coffins is that the shock cord allows the hay to move a bit - and so wears better throughout a long season. I wonder if I dare use it on the traditional Barnegat I'll be restoring for Tuckerton next year....

All the best,

SJS
I,ve not used it with salt hay but should work great and probably a lot quicker to install. Those black nylon pad eyes can be bought in bulk on ebay and of course stainless screws. Beauty of the stretch cord is if & when it finally gives out its a quick replace and if you need more tension its simple to just untie your far end and pull tight. I,ll normally attach a couple stainless hog rings on the loop where cord starts at thru pad eye. For my usage I cut a complete hull cover of the nylon bird netting, attach my grassing to that as a backer and then zip tie that to the stretch cord . At seasons end I simply cut off those ties holding cover to stretch cord and roll up or fold up cover till next season. Allows rafia to last a long/long time .
 
Anthony~

Very nice! What's the material?

More important: What is the rub rail and where did you get it?

BTW: Down to low 20s again tonight - making ice on the ponds for certain!

All the best,

SJS
 
Todd~

Each "technology" has its own strengths and weaknesses. The webbing is closest to traditional thatch rails in that the thatch (Salt Hay or whatever works in one's locale) is jammed/wedged beneath the webbing and held tight to the deck thereby. Wooden (or any other rigid material) rails work in the same way - but generally require more grass. Gunners who have used both find that much less grass is needed with webbing. The cost of materials and installation is significantly less for webbing v. traditional - perhaps on the order of one-quarter.

Shock cord is way too stretchy to simply wedge hay beneath it - the hay would come out quickly, especially on a trailer at highway speeds. Shock cord could work for woody or other really coarse vegetation (corn stalks?) but would not hold hay unless many small bundles of hay are lashed to it (as I do on my gunning coffins). As I have shown - and others have used - 2 roughly parallel rows of shock cord - fastened to the deck at regular intervals with eye straps or the like - provide a good framework for lashed bundles. One clear benefit is that the shock cord "gives" - and thus reduces breakage of the hay during gunning activities.

So - as I see it - these are 3 distinct approaches to covering gunnng vessels with vegetation - to hide us all from (rightfully) suspicious fowl.

All the best,

SJS
 
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