Building a big pole barn....

tod osier

tod osier

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We are putting up a pole barn in WY, something on the scale of 48'x 48' with 14-16' walls. Getting some initial quotes took my breath away. I was expecting close to 100K, but the quotes we have are closer to 150K. This is a simple garage with nothing fancier than a 2' overhang all around and concrete floor. We had Morton put up a 30' x 50' about 15 years ago for just over 40K (no concrete floor, though).

This got me wondering about the feasibility of building myself. Obviously, trusses would need set, but I have no problem with the rest of the project myself. I'm just thinking through feasibility of the project. If the truss company would design and we could get them or someone else to set trusses on posts we put in, what am I missing as far as major challenges? I'd have an overhead door company put in the doors.

Thoughts? The building would be pretty close to the house and I like the idea of siding on it and maybe asphalt roof shingles to match the house a little better.
 
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Tod

Working by myself it would take years to build the outside, if at all, not to mention I hate heights so that is a large part of why I went with a contractor. Once the shell was done I went to work on the inside. Still have a few things to do but as you know it has been an operational shop for years. If you think you can handle the job by all means go for it. I would never take that project on, especially past my 30s. One suggestion, prepare to rent a lot of equipment and study up on how to properly prepare the site for the building. Even with a flat and level site mine took a lot of work before the first post was sunk.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Tod

Working by myself it would take years to build the outside, if at all, not to mention I hate heights so that is a large part of why I went with a contractor. Once the shell was done I went to work on the inside. Still have a few things to do but as you know it has been an operational shop for years. If you think you can handle the job by all means go for it. I would never take that project on, especially past my 30s. One suggestion, prepare to rent a lot of equipment and study up on how to properly prepare the site for the building. Even with a flat and level site mine took a lot of work before the first post was sunk.
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We will doing the site prep either way, we did that for the last one and didn't find it that bad. I'm good with a rake.

This barn would be completely unfinished on the inside, just machine storage. Once we had a roof on that would accomplish a lot of what is needed. Then work on the walls. I'm not convinced that is something I'd want to do, but I'd sure like to save that money.
 
Site prep for concrete in my area is a lot more than rake work. Top soil is removed and loads of gravel are used to prepare for concrete. Otherwise cracking is almost assured. Not sure of the soil you are building on but some soils are fine, some have to go.
 
tod osier said:
We will doing the site prep either way, we did that for the last one and didn't find it that bad. I'm good with a rake.

This barn would be completely unfinished on the inside, just machine storage. Once we had a roof on that would accomplish a lot of what is needed. Then work on the walls. I'm not convinced that is something I'd want to do, but I'd sure like to save that money.
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Tod~

My first thought: Got any Amish nearby? A large community has moved in hereabouts in recent years - replete with sawmills. I have enjoyed watching the work crews putting up the skeletons of big buildings. No pickups on the job site - all horses and buggies.... I understand their rates are much lower than the those charged by the "English".... I may be contacting them for a 20'x20' addition to our car barn in the future.

More seriously, concrete can be the major expense. I had pros do my 20'x40' "Alaskan slab" for my shop about 15 years ago. In our mid-50s then, my "friends group" was too old for a big concrete job - even though everyone had done some concrete work earlier in their lives. The slab was done perfectly and has stood the test of time - but It cost fully half of my total - because I built the rest myself - with help from friends for the obvious big jobs - and had access to reasonable lumber.

re your roof: Our house (circa 1825) has a slate roof. All of our outbuildings have metal (not standing seam - Grandrib III "tin" I can install myself.) on top.

Shop - Summer 2010.jpg

Thus, all our outbuildings "match" each other - with BarnRed (Cabot CVT Solid Oil Stain) wooden siding and grey metal roofs - and complement the traditional white clapboard house.

One other thought: I planned my shop for solar panels on the roof - viz. East-West orientation and no trees to the South. Key is to install purlins on 24-inch centers to comport with standard panel dimensions. Once our panels are paid off, monthly bills will be nominal. (Above photo is before solar panels.) During site prep, I had a trench dug from the shop to our main electrical entrance - and laid PVC conduit in it for when we could run the power.

All the best,

SJS
 
Eric Patterson said:
Site prep for concrete in my area is a lot more than rake work. Top soil is removed and loads of gravel are used to prepare for concrete. Otherwise cracking is almost assured. Not sure of the soil you are building on but some soils are fine, some have to go.
Click to expand...

Well aware on the prep, I'd prep the site with what I'd call "process" (processed stone - fines to 3/4") - they would call it "base" or "road base" in WY. The top soil and sod is so thin where I'm planning on putting it, I'm not going to worry about it.
 
tod osier said:
We will doing the site prep either way, we did that for the last one and didn't find it that bad. I'm good with a rake.

This barn would be completely unfinished on the inside, just machine storage. Once we had a roof on that would accomplish a lot of what is needed. Then work on the walls. I'm not convinced that is something I'd want to do, but I'd sure like to save that money.
Click to expand...
If the 150k is for the entire project (conc slab and wood structure) I question whether you can save enough money to make DIY worthwhile. I'd like to be proven wrong, but $65/SF for a "big" barn, especially the tall part, doesn't sound high. I prefer large and tall, but if it can fill your needs, you might ask for a quote with 12' walls. I suspect you'll see significant savings.

I thought the same as Steve, any Amish in the area? Several clients have had pole barns erected (CT) in the last few years, the Amish were much less expensive than local builders. If you plan for it, you can always pour a slab after a pole barn is erected. Sleeving for future electric and water service is inexpensive and advisable.

Eric is correct about soils, only pour concrete on well drained, granular, compacted base. It's tempting to start early in the spring, make sure the frost is fully out of the ground. I know nothing about WY soils (other than prairie dogs can burrow in it) so no help there.
 
tod osier said:
Well aware on the prep, I'd prep the site with what I'd call "process" (processed stone - fines to 3/4") - they would call it "base" or "road base" in WY. The top soil and sod is so thin where I'm planning on putting it, I'm not going to worry about it.
Click to expand...
Saw this too late for my post. Should have known you'd be on top of it.

BUT.....skim the topsoil before placing the base.
 
tod osier said:
We are putting up a pole barn in WY, something on the scale of 48'x 48' with 14-16' walls. Getting some initial quotes took my breath away. I was expecting close to 100K, but the quotes we have are closer to 150K. This is a simple garage with nothing fancier than a 2' overhang all around and concrete floor. We had Morton put up a 30' x 50' about 15 years ago for just over 40K (no concrete floor, though).

This got me wondering about the feasibility of building myself. Obviously, trusses would need set, but I have no problem with the rest of the project myself. I'm just thinking through feasibility of the project. If the truss company would design and we could get them or someone else to set trusses on posts we put in, what am I missing as far as major challenges? I'd have an overhead door company put in the doors.

Thoughts? The building would be pretty close to the house and I like the idea of siding on it and maybe asphalt roof shingles to match the house a little better.
Click to expand...
I just had one built last yr at my house and went with 30x30x15 full concrete with apron an insulation and coal stove I’m was at 47,000 I did a 200 amp service full led lights inside an out dual fans and a 90 inch tv on the wall 😜 plan for bigger I always say I should of did a 60x60 lol
 

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SJ Fairbank said:
If the 150k is for the entire project (conc slab and wood structure) I question whether you can save enough money to make DIY worthwhile. I'd like to be proven wrong, but $65/SF for a "big" barn, especially the tall part, doesn't sound high. I prefer large and tall, but if it can fill your needs, you might ask for a quote with 12' walls. I suspect you'll see significant savings.

I thought the same as Steve, any Amish in the area? Several clients have had pole barns erected (CT) in the last few years, the Amish were much less expensive than local builders. If you plan for it, you can always pour a slab after a pole barn is erected. Sleeving for future electric and water service is inexpensive and advisable.

Eric is correct about soils, only pour concrete on well drained, granular, compacted base. It's tempting to start early in the spring, make sure the frost is fully out of the ground. I know nothing about WY soils (other than prairie dogs can burrow in it) so no help there.
Click to expand...

Looking at getting a 12'W x 14'H door in it for any rv we might buy - even with a raised chord truss the walls are 12'+ (I didn't want to get too into the picky details). The gable end would have 3 doors - the big one and a couple smaller maybe 10x10 doors.

The topsoil on site is hardly more than a slight tannic stain.
 
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Steve Sanford said:
Tod~

My first thought: Got any Amish nearby? A large community has moved in hereabouts in recent years - replete with sawmills. I have enjoyed watching the work crews putting up the skeletons of big buildings. No pickups on the job site - all horses and buggies.... I understand their rates are much lower than the those charged by the "English".... I may be contacting them for a 20'x20' addition to our car barn in the future.

More seriously, concrete can be the major expense. I had pros do my 20'x40' "Alaskan slab" for my shop about 15 years ago. In our mid-50s then, my "friends group" was too old for a big concrete job - even though everyone had done some concrete work earlier in their lives. The slab was done perfectly and has stood the test of time - but It cost fully half of my total - because I built the rest myself - with help from friends for the obvious big jobs - and had access to reasonable lumber.

re your roof: Our house (circa 1825) has a slate roof. All of our outbuildings have metal (not standing seam - Grandrib III "tin" I can install myself.) on top.

View attachment 61649

Thus, all our outbuildings "match" each other - with BarnRed (Cabot CVT Solid Oil Stain) wooden siding and grey metal roofs - and complement the traditional white clapboard house.

One other thought: I planned my shop for solar panels on the roof - viz. East-West orientation and no trees to the South. Key is to install purlins on 24-inch centers to comport with standard panel dimensions. Once our panels are paid off, monthly bills will be nominal. (Above photo is before solar panels.) During site prep, I had a trench dug from the shop to our main electrical entrance - and laid PVC conduit in it for when we could run the power.

All the best,

SJS
Click to expand...

No amish and I didn't say it, but I'd sub out the concrete as well. My mother's family are masons and I spent summers helping on side jobs and have helped on many a slab pour. Anything over 7-8' wide is too much for me.

Classy barn, I love it except that it needs painted from time to time. :)

We own a 22 KW solar array on site already, so no need there. Good thought as a place to put it.

If the stock market keeps behaving (MAGA!), just writing a check may feel a little better.
 
tod osier said:
No amish and I didn't say it, but I'd sub out the concrete as well. My mother's family are masons and I spent summers helping on side jobs and have helped on many a slab pour. Anything over 7-8' wide is too much for me.

Classy barn, I love it except that it needs painted from time to time. :)

We own a 22 KW solar array on site already, so no need there. Good thought as a place to put it.

If the stock market keeps behaving (MAGA!), just writing a check may feel a little better.
Click to expand...
Tod~

I feel the need to paint barn wood because of our moist summers here in the Northeast. I use the Cabot OVT because it is so soft - prep for re-paint is fast and easy: wire brush - no scraping!

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve Sanford said:
Tod~

I feel the need to paint barn wood because of our moist summers here in the Northeast. I use the Cabot OVT because it is so soft - prep for re-paint is fast and easy: wire brush - no scraping!

All the best,

SJS
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I was just teasing, I hate painting and I'll take painted metal, vinyl or something like hardiePlank over wood (even as sweet as your buildings look).
 
Tod, I'm not familiar with material or building prices in your area, but I can always guarantee you can do it cheaper, and get a better final product, doing it yourself
 
This is scary.... I want to build a boat garage next year on my place. I was looking at 30x30 with an RV carport off the side of it. I only need somewhere to get the boats out of the weather, somewhere I dont have to put boat covers on and after a day of fishing, I can open up all the hatches and let everything dry out real good. I will likely store decoys and fishing gear on either side of the boats. But I dont want it huge
 
tod osier said:
I was just teasing, I hate painting and I'll take painted metal, vinyl or something like hardiePlank over wood (even as sweet as your buildings look).
Click to expand...
Our Federalist farmhouse enjoys HardieBoard on 3 of its sides. The West side gets it next year! Great product.

All the best,

SJS
 
Decided to go with Morton. We have a 30x50 in CT that we have been really happy with and it still looks new at 15 years old.

Two 10x10 doors and a 12x14 to get any rv in. 48' across the gable end and 40' deep, 14' walls with a raised chord truss to get that height for the 14' door. Full 5" concrete and electric OH doors (it was the bluetooth doors that got me :) ).

1734614751292.jpeg
 
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