Bill,
I had the whole sequence typed and pics loaded a couple of days ago, but the session timed-out. I decided to just load pics and then come back and edit-in commentary, but while doing multiple cut/ paste insertions I hit paste in the highlighted url line in photobucket, resulting in nearly all photos' url being altered...
Bow compartment bulkheads in after laying two layers of Kevlar 5oz. on the outboard bow hull sections. I hollowed out the foam along the keel in the bow and layed another layer of Kevlar cloth down the keel back to the below-deck drain. I epoxied three more layers of Kevlar 5oz. at alternating 45 degree angles to the underlay layer within the 22" x21" bow compartment and did a series of foam pours via some vent holes I cut in the foredeck with a hole saw. I mounted squares of 1.5 CSM on the top portions of these cookies to epoxy them back in the foredeck when done.
Two overlapping layers of 9" wide Kevlar 5oz. down the interior chines of the decoy compartments for the first three feet, then a single layer the remainder of the compartment's length to protect the exterior chines from abrading through. I "buried" these under two 12" wide lengths of 1708 biaxial cloth with 3/4oz. CSM backing, sanded these after several days cure, and coated the interior decoy compartments with Tuff Coat sand tan in three applications, prior reinstalling the decoy curtains with new bungee cord. I added a 2" closed cell foam board layer to the foredeck bulkheads with a 4mm Coremat facing covered in 1.5 oz. CSM over these and the PVC piece sections I epoxied in as column supports to strengthen and plumb the bulkhead faces. I had to notch the bases about a half-inch to fit the bow compartment grass rail back in.
I think I sent you pics of the rework of the bow compartment hatch door with the recessed stainless pull I mounted in the original "hole". All the wood supports for the grassing rail, rear bulkhead corner supports and the hatch's piano hinge were encapsulated in epoxy prior being installed with either epoxy or gorilla glue. I used that 14 ounce woven cloth you gave me to reinforce the hull sections behind the registration numbers. I split it in half and it fit perfectly.
I necked-down the 4" PVC under deck drain by epoxying-in a section of female Schedule 40 1.5" I.D. conduit in the opening, which was used to seat a ten inch section of Schedule 40 with an end cap. This was drilled with a series of drain holes at a 170 degree arc, so the compartment would still drain aft, but water would not slosh forward from the bilge into the bow compartment. I can also remove the Schedule 40 drain section to flush debris back into the bilge recess after the season for clean-up.
I epoxied a layer of 7oz. Delrin down on the work deck (My thanks to Brad Taylor for the words of encouragement on working with Delrin.) by weighting the outside edges with some barbells to keep the cloth rigid and under pressure while the epoxy resin settled in it and allowed me to work it out from the centerline.
I installed a Rule 800GPH bilge pump in the bilge sump, mounted the strainer basket with 3m 5200 and rigged it to discharge into the splash well. Four red 4" waterproof LED banks are now mounted on the cockpit cowling's underside behind where you had the Svelling goose decoy gunnel bags installed, and one 6" bank is mounted facing aft in the bow area with Ancor wire. Labels and switches added for the bilge pump and deck lights to the control panel and a little wiring "clean-up" work done.
I came-up with 72lbs added to the dry weight for resin and fiberglass/Kevlar cloth, and 154lbs. positive flotation added in the bow.
Boat is loaded now with grass and decoys. I leave tomorrow for the Lake Michigan side for the opener.
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