boat identification

Josh Schwenger said:
Looks like a South Bay to me.
Click to expand...

That was my first impression, sure has the lines of a South Bay.
But i thought they had an inset transom?
 
Joe~


That is a "Bauer" boat. Ronnie Bauer - who passed in the last year or so - sold them on Long Island. They were designed by Charles Guck, a GE engineer from Connecticut. I believe they were made in Connecticut.


They are a very nice boat and you made a great find.


I think I took this photo from a Craigslist ad in the last couple of years. (Look like your vessel?)



View attachment Guck-Bauer-Sohm.jpg





I know a couple of guys that have them. This one belongs to Ben Sohm. I took this photo at a SSWA Duckboat Show several years ago.


All the best,


SJS







 
Joe~


This shows full-length (and full width) plywood floorboards.



View attachment Bauer 04.jpg




There are many ways to make good floorboards. The key is that they keep you off the bottom of the hull and do not move around in use.


I like floorboards that can be removed - at least after the season. Also, I like a hole for a bilge pump for a swamping situation.



All the best,


SJS





 
Carl et al~


South Bay Duckboats do, indeed, have a notched transom - and a rounder nose. These 2 photos are both South Bays.



View attachment sm Port 23 - pumpkinseed.JPG



Also - like Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes and Great South Bay Scooters - there is no stem. The hull up forward is more of a spoon bow. The Guck-Bauer boat has a "knockabout bow" profile. And, overall, she is less melonseed-shaped and more parallel-sided. I'll bet she poles more nicely than a South Bay.



View attachment sm Portrait 01 inside FULL.JPG





This help?


SJS


 
steve,
sure looks like my boat that you posted from the craigslist ad.. i happened to pass by a local garage sale, saw there were decoys for sale and noticed the boat in the backyard. turned out he was moving to Tennessee and i couldnt pass it up.

now my question is how would you secure the floor in place? there are no floor supports like there is in a south bay.
View attachment 20211004_165926.jpg
 
Good morning, Joe~


Are the floorboards fastened now? Are they in good shape?


Depending on how the floorboards are now framed on their underside, II would be tempted to 'glass in a pair of stringers , port and starboard. I would then install a pair of wooden turnbuttons on each board.


View attachment sm Floorboards - curb and turnbutton.JPG



Can you live with them for a season? It's always helpful to design changes AFTER you've seen something works/ - then figure out how it can be improved.



Will you be bringing it to the Duckboat Show? (I would encourage everybody to bring their vessels, whether or not they want to compete. Boats make the Show!) I would be happy to look at it and share my thoughts then.



BTW: Does your boat have a transom plug?


All the best,


SJS
 
the floor that was in it was ROTTED 1/4" ply with some 1x3 fastened to the bottom. when i got the boat it had a water line on the inside of the hull about 6 inches up. when i tried pulling out the plywood floor it all fell apart to the point i couldnt even use it as a pattern.

i was going to try to cut some 1/2" ply to the shape of the floor. the only thing that worries me is the floor is not flat. how would you get the wood to bend with the boat without having bounce in it. if that makes sense.

i will try to make it with the boat to the show. fingers crossed
 
Good morning, Joe~


I'm a bit pressed for time - but here's an approach I used on a gunning skiff that had a fair amount of "deadrise" in her sections (the shape of the hull port-to-starboard - whereas curvature along the hull's length is "rocker").


Note that floorboards (duckboards, actually, because they are removable) do not have to run chine-to-chine. You really only need them where you will be sitting or standing.



I carefully measured for some cleats, then ran the floorboard planks fore and aft:


View attachment FB 02.JPG



I scribed each cleat to the hull.




View attachment FB 03 A.JPG



Then notched each for the keelson.


View attachment FB 08.JPG



I laid out the planks using a "fair batten" to get a nice sweet curve that roughly followed the hull shape.


View attachment FB 15.JPG



I trimmed the half-inch clear Pine and eased the edges.


View attachment sm FB 23 Finished underside.JPG



In place.


View attachment sm FB 26 Installed - looking aft.JPG



Here they are painted and ready-to-hunt. The central plank is longer simply because I had the stock - and it gives it an Art Deco flavor in keeping with its 1920s vintage.



View attachment TD Floorboards painted.JPG



If the floor of your vessel is fairly flat, I might instead run short planks athwartships and run a pair of "cleats" (nailers, stringers) port and starboard. I would secure the whole thing with a single turnbutton i the middle of the hull.



Hope this helps!


SJS














View attachment sm FB 23 Finished underside.JPG
 
I run a 15 hp Yamaha 2-stroke. They?re such good motors, I bought two? a 2007 and 2008, since they stopped making 2-strokes.
I like the boat?solid.. and with the spray dodger, I can power through some rough waters. It?s also nice to stop the wind and add cover. It may look high, but is right at the top of my head when I?m sitting on a very low chair? like 8? off the deck (I cut down the chair legs). I don?t like laying down while hunting.
 
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