While crawling around the boat (bb II) I found the wiring chases that I put in when I built the boat with plans of wiring it for running lights. 15+ years later, I'm thinking about actually doing it. One problem, I am a dunce with 12V wiring. Anybody have a newbie diagram that they could point me to? Thinking of a relatively simple set up: running lights, under-deck interior lights and a port for plugging in a search light (helpful for those runs up little creeks in the dark). thanks!
boat wiring
- Thread starter Jamus
- Start date
If I were you, I would go to Barnes&Noble and get a paperback copy of the "The 12 volt Bible". It is a great investment and you will be happy to learn all of the cool stuff you want to know about wiring your boat. Plus, you will do it correctly, which is a big bonus!
Second this book. Some parts are not as clear as could be, or overly detailed, though.
In short, you need a switch panel to distribute the positive and a negative bus to collect them to and from the battery. Main cutoff on the positive side and fuse to protect the system. The wire size is calculated based on the length of the run (usually there and back in the tables) and the amps of the circuit. AYBC dictates the colors of the wires if you want to go above and beyond. Calculate wire size and use a standard size or 2 that covers all your bases (sizing to the largest) is usually the cheapest way if you buy wire in bulk rather than specific lengths for each run and larger wire is no problem. Use crimp connectors with adhesive lined shrink. All tinned wire and connectors.
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One note: some fish finders don't like to be hooked up to a panel, can get interference. Most manufactures recommend a separate power line for them.
Make sure to use the right size fuzes to keep from frying electronics.
Years back, someone posted a cool setup they rigged with breaker switches, 12 volt outlet, etc., all hooked into sealed a "project box". Maybe they will chime in.
Make sure to use the right size fuzes to keep from frying electronics.
Years back, someone posted a cool setup they rigged with breaker switches, 12 volt outlet, etc., all hooked into sealed a "project box". Maybe they will chime in.
Tod is correct, tinned wire is also best, larger size wire is better too, but if you have to use standard stranded wire, I've had good results crimping and then double coating the connection with liquid lectric tape.
I wired a work boat that way as I already had or scrounged all the wire, fuse blocks and switches, did that in 95, still working.
I wired a work boat that way as I already had or scrounged all the wire, fuse blocks and switches, did that in 95, still working.
I made up this unit some years ago for my BBSB build. My thought was to have a sealed unit. I have sealed cannon plugs input from battery and separate output to the lighting. I have the nav lights on one circuit, the under deck lights on a second circuit, and finally the 12V socket on it's own. This allowed me to set each fuse to match the loads. So far, no issues other than one of the rocker switches failed early.
Tom Scholberg
Well-known member
Now you guys are in my wheelhouse. I can and have spent way way too much time wiring boats. All great info so far but I might add spend the time and wire to segregate each circuit completely. By that I mean use terminal blocks and most importantly run a separate ground wire for each circuit and it doesn't hurt to label the wires either. I am old school solder and heat shrink each connection but am open to some of the newer crimpers, your choice. Just remember it is a skill to solder correctly and a skill needs to be practiced. Good luck and don't be afraid to post a question, much easier than being stuck out on a big dark scary lake with no electrics.
Plus you can take your lunch to work in it!
OK, it is a little bigger/bulkier than might need to be, but, it is only rev1. Next time I will go to the next smaller sized drybox
OK, it is a little bigger/bulkier than might need to be, but, it is only rev1. Next time I will go to the next smaller sized drybox
Hummus! Yuck!!! Sausage gravy, breakfast burritos, maybe.....
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
Agree, tinned marine wire, shrink crimps and a panel. Do it right ONCE.
Nothing worse than chasing a trouble. All my trailer lights are on risers out of the water. After the age of fifty I'm learning.
Nothing worse than chasing a trouble. All my trailer lights are on risers out of the water. After the age of fifty I'm learning.
KThompson
Active member
Tom - Just noted your comment about maybe being open to some newer crimp choices. Definitely give them a shot... super easy to use and enough options out there to make anyone happy. I, like probably lots of other folks here, do hardware design work and we have great success on crimp connections... passes all the rigorous environmental testing requirements (rain, salt fog, drop, vibration, thermal, etc.) and in many instances is preferred over solder joints that can see mechanical loading or use the non-leaded solder which was pushed to commercial world years ago... the US Military is still fighting wholesale use of non-Pb solder however due to tin whiskers and embrittlement issues.
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Tests have showed that properly crimped connectors work better then soldered connectors. I use specially designed crimpers that crimp all the way around the connector instead of a single point area. This along with the heat shrink with glue inside works extremely well.
Tom
Tom
Tod or Tom is there a hydraulic crimper that is both small and priced for the home owner/occasional user? A quick search yields kits with a set of dies for different size wires. Did I find the correct tool? I have always wished that the hand crimp tools worked better. This sounds like a tool I'd like to add to the tool box.