broadbill
- Thread starter Ron Mowry
- Start date
Ray
Well-known member
Study the plans and then look for things you can change such as side height or the crown of the front deck.
The angle of the transom is typically changed to a steeper 15 degree angle on Devlin boats. He may have updated the plans you have to this already.
Guys with big feet like to make the sides taller by adding inches to the top edge of the side piece. Leave the chine edge alone.
Does it have a floor? I don't remember, but there was one of the small Devlin boats where "to floor or not to floor" was a question.
The plywood thickness in the plans is fine.
The angle of the transom is typically changed to a steeper 15 degree angle on Devlin boats. He may have updated the plans you have to this already.
Guys with big feet like to make the sides taller by adding inches to the top edge of the side piece. Leave the chine edge alone.
Does it have a floor? I don't remember, but there was one of the small Devlin boats where "to floor or not to floor" was a question.
The plywood thickness in the plans is fine.
Bill Burruss
Well-known member
Ron,
I have a Broadbill I built with 1/4" ply hull, and found it to be sufficient. You may want to put some fiberglass on the inside of the hull to protect the wood (as opposed to just coating in epoxy). I use 2 sections of antifatigue mat (makes 4'x2' section) as a floor, and a sponge as a bilge pump.
Ray is spot on about the 15 degrees. 15-17 should be good. If you have less, you may porpoise, even with the engine in the number 1 pin position. I had to make a "shim" to add transom angle to my Broadbill as I was not aware of the issue prior to building.
My Broadbill is built as planned, and I like it that way. Some have added deck height, and really appreciated the extra space. If you decide to add height to the deck, be sure to think throught the engine mount/antiventilation plate geometery. The plans are for a 15" shortshaft, and the antiventilation plate on the engine should be 0-1" below the bottom of the boat. If you add too much deck, you will have to raise the motor mount to fit the transome clamp, which could be problem. You may want to talk with Eric P if you are considering going that route.
Built to plan, you can build the boat with 3 each 4x8 sheets of hull/side material, instead of the 4 listed. It is tight, so you need to plan out your wood use carefully. If you are going to add any size to the boat, you ought to go with 4 sheets. The plans are 1" = 1 foot, so I bought some graph paper and traced the side/bottom layout from then plans. Then I traced the deck pieces on a different piece of paper, cut them out, then figured out where they would fit on the leftover wood.
The motor mount bracket top fillet is a weak point on the boat. Make sure you make a large fillet there. I used a large fillet w/3 layers of biax tape, and have had no problems (yet, knock on wood) with a 80 lbs Yamaha 15. Others on this site have had to rework that joint.
The most useful "mod" I did was making some little wooden brackets to hold the oars under the side decks when not in use. Held in place under the deck, the oars serve as a decoy racks which hold 4-5 decoys under each side deck (so they do not bounce into the middle of the boat when under way).
A lid is also another very useful addition.
[inline scouting.jpg]
Enjoy the build and post lots of pics!
-Bill
I have a Broadbill I built with 1/4" ply hull, and found it to be sufficient. You may want to put some fiberglass on the inside of the hull to protect the wood (as opposed to just coating in epoxy). I use 2 sections of antifatigue mat (makes 4'x2' section) as a floor, and a sponge as a bilge pump.
Ray is spot on about the 15 degrees. 15-17 should be good. If you have less, you may porpoise, even with the engine in the number 1 pin position. I had to make a "shim" to add transom angle to my Broadbill as I was not aware of the issue prior to building.
My Broadbill is built as planned, and I like it that way. Some have added deck height, and really appreciated the extra space. If you decide to add height to the deck, be sure to think throught the engine mount/antiventilation plate geometery. The plans are for a 15" shortshaft, and the antiventilation plate on the engine should be 0-1" below the bottom of the boat. If you add too much deck, you will have to raise the motor mount to fit the transome clamp, which could be problem. You may want to talk with Eric P if you are considering going that route.
Built to plan, you can build the boat with 3 each 4x8 sheets of hull/side material, instead of the 4 listed. It is tight, so you need to plan out your wood use carefully. If you are going to add any size to the boat, you ought to go with 4 sheets. The plans are 1" = 1 foot, so I bought some graph paper and traced the side/bottom layout from then plans. Then I traced the deck pieces on a different piece of paper, cut them out, then figured out where they would fit on the leftover wood.
The motor mount bracket top fillet is a weak point on the boat. Make sure you make a large fillet there. I used a large fillet w/3 layers of biax tape, and have had no problems (yet, knock on wood) with a 80 lbs Yamaha 15. Others on this site have had to rework that joint.
The most useful "mod" I did was making some little wooden brackets to hold the oars under the side decks when not in use. Held in place under the deck, the oars serve as a decoy racks which hold 4-5 decoys under each side deck (so they do not bounce into the middle of the boat when under way).
A lid is also another very useful addition.
[inline scouting.jpg]
Enjoy the build and post lots of pics!
-Bill