converting a bunk trailer to a roller trailer

mike braden

mike braden

Well-known member
Thinking of converting my bunk trailer to a roller trailer. Has anyone done this before? How much to convert?? Pros/Cons?? Better off just buying a roller trailer instead??
 
Mike, I suspect it will be cheaper and easier to sell your trailer and buy what you want. The rollers, brackets, et al are available but expensive. If you can sell your trailer for within $200 of what the roller trailer will cost, it is a no brainer to me. To make a nice roller trailer is some work. Now if you want to change the bunks to a set of roller bunks, that is no big deal, and while I type and think... for your planing hull maybe all you need/want.... but honestly, with your planing hull, why are you thinking roller trailer?
 
New roller trailer is $1000. That was first quote that I got. To convert to a roller trailer will be around $800. Replacing wood bunks with roller bunks will cost around $200 which is most likely the route that I will take. Friends had a hard time getting the boat on the trailer at low tide. Not something that they would want to do more than once.
 
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I would stick with the bunks on your planing hull, and install the sliders on the bunks. On a glass boat, you want as much contact area as possible. With roller bunks you will end up with a bunch of dimples over time. Especially if the glass is not real thick.
 
not to jump in but dave what if the boat is a new epoxy boat 2 4 oz layers of glass and resin.
as i need a traler are bunks or wheels better
 
I'd stay with the bunks & top them with the plastic decking board.

More stability, less hull dimpling & only cost you about $40.00 dollars.

Measure, trim & countersink with s/s screws.

I've topped my bunks on (2) two of my trailers.

Just make sure you don't disconnect the cable until the boat is in the water or it will slide right off on the ramp!!!
 
John, the hull shape really dictates the trailer style. You want to fully support the hull, and especially the weight of the OB. Mike's hull is a rocketship planing hull, all glass. Not sure of the OB size, but I would guess maybe a 40hp? He needs support at least 2/3rds of the hull, and all the way to the transom for sure. A wooden boat, that is glassed over, is really only as strong as the wooden boat. The glass does tighten it up, but mostly creates the waterproof shell. The glass binding everything together. However 8oz of cloth are not going to significantly add much support to the hull that would change the trailer I would use. My displacement hull is on rollers, with the last roller within an inch of the stern, supporting the 15hp. I use a transom saver in addition to prevent a moment arm of the motor on the motorboard. Now keep in mind, I am an engineer and overbuild to a fault. But I also trailer my boat to Vermont and to NJ from Virginia, and would not hesitate to go further if invited!
 
I have considered the slicks on the wooden bunks but wasn't sure how much that they would really help. When the tide is out, you will literally be pulling the boat up and onto the bunks. It's not like you can back the trailer in and float the boat onto the trailer. Too much mud and too steap of a ramp.

I have a 40 hp on the boat with electric tilt and trim which adds to the weight of the motor. It is my understanding (I am sure that I will be corrected if wrong) that my my boat has 7 layers of glass which makes it rock solid. I do use a transom saver as well when transporting.

If the bunk slicks work, I'd give them a try but I think that they will still leave a lot to be desired. If my boat had thin glass, I would be concerned about the dimpling but with 7 layers, I don't think that it will be an issue. I am going to try to reach Donnie Federanko and ask him his advice.
 
All I can say is the plastic decking is "super slick" & in my opinion will work just as good as the rollers.

Like I said, don't dare unhook it till it's in the water & have a nice long road for when you do or you'll be swimming after it!!!

There are times I launch my GD rig, 18x44 25lt & gear off the side of the road with none of the trailer in the water, with just the axles over the edge.

The boat will slide right up onto it by just using the winch.

And speaking of winches, have you tried a 2 speed winch???

Just being able to switch gears makes a huge difference on winching up steep grades & ramps.
 
Stick with the bunks. You can also put the brackets on the bunks to make them tilt. Probably have to shorten the length of the bunks though.

I have the tilt bunks on trailer for my Roy High Box. They work well.

You could also not come in at low tide or tell your friends to lift more weights in the off season.....(kidding!)
 
Never a problem for me Brian since I am driving the truck ;)

I need to do something so at Dave and Jeff's recommendation I may try the slicks. If they don't work...I can always take them off. Plus I'll be spending $40 instead of $200. I will still have the full support of the bunks as well.
 
I have two rows of slicks on 8-ft bunks and they work great. It's very normal for me to launch and retrieve with dry bunks. Boat weighs between 350 and 400 lbs w/ motor, deck & gear and I'm normally by my self at this location. I do have a roller at the back of the trailer as low as it will go and the guides. The single speed winch has no problem rolling the bow up to the bunks ant then It slide on nicely. I too would never think of unchaining the boat before actual launch, at least not again:^) I did leave the old boat dry on the ramp when it slid off while driving up the ramp for a reposition before launching, definitely not cool. That was with a single row of slicks 4-ft long ea side. I have not tried decking so no comment on a comparison.

View attachment 22656
 
Mike,

Like the others, I would stick with a bunk trailer. I had a new Magic Tilt trailer for my bass boat when I was in Florida and it had plastic covered bunks. These were the cat's meoww. I sold that outfit before moving back north but I have to re-work the bunks on the current trailer and I'll be doing the bunks with the plastic covers. No more freezing the boat to carpeted bunks and waiting for everyone else to launch just to soak bunks so I can float my boat.

You can find the plastic covers on the bottom of the page. Plastic end caps to.

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=BUNK%2DGLI&parts=Trailer+Glide%2DOns+Roller+Bunks+%26amp%3B+Misc&iTpStatus=1&Tp=&Bc=
 
I have the plastic bunk glide-ons on my trailer. I am very happy with them. I launch a 16' Alumacraft aluminum hull with a 40hp on the back. The boat comes off with ease. More often than not, I crank the boat up onto the trailer using the winch rather than dunking the whole trailer in the salt water.

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Ed

Did you use the bunk glides or the slicks?

The glides look like they cover the entire bunk whereas the slicks come 10 to a kits and are evenly spaced out on the bunk
 
Mike,

Magic Tilt trailers come with the glides. It's something fairly new. I know guys that swear by the nylon or plastic strips as well. What I like about the glides is the current treated lumber is harmfull to aluminum. Some say that they gas out a long time. Now does the gas affect the aluminum? I can't say but the glides cover any wood area that the boat cancome into contact with and I wouldn't use standard lumber for a trailer bunk. Just my 2 cents though.
 
I too used pressure treated and after 7 years sitting on the slicks no sign of any problems.

View attachment Slicks on bunks.jpg

No physical contact between the wood and hull plus about 3 layers of primer and FME to protect for gassing. This picture was obviously taken early in the new boat and trailer overhaul project, Transom is now even with end of slicks, and she ain't white no more. Note roller on back cross member for winching the boat up onto the bunks when they're dry.

Scott
 
LOL....well there you go. Like I said there are guys that swear by the slicks and lets be honest if there is any gassing to this stuff what percentage can there be? The EPA would be all over this stuff if it was that corrosive. And as far as contact would I notice anything in my life time? I just repeated what I was told at the boat shop because I don't know any better and I'll let someone else decide if it's important to them.
 
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