Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, All~
One of the interesting aspects of my gunning boat endeavors is the variety of craft I find in my shop. I have restored a bunch of old classics - and have a bunch more in the queue. And, I've done my share of "mid-century moderns" - 'glass gunning vessels from the 70s and 80s that have become classics, especially South Bay Duckboats. This Spring I have had a Sculling Boat in the shop that must be near its century mark. But, I just completed a boat that was built in the last few years. No rehabilitation was needed; I simply added a host of custom features - "appurtenances" here at Pencil Brook Boatworks - for a Duck Invader 13.
Between the aforementioned Sculling Boat and other NDR projects, there was no room in my shop. This vessel got my attentions in my bay of our car barn.
I brushed on its topcoat of Pettit 3303 - Dull Dead Grass on Friday morning. It was a glorious sunny day...
View attachment A - Frog Pond and Hayfield B.JPG
....so I hauled it out into the sunshine to bake. No need to paint the hull - but everything from the rail up got the 3303.
View attachment B - DI 30 - Final Paint - baking in sun.JPG
The "work order" underwent a number of changes during the course of the customizing. This is the result: lots of thatch rails, a rigid spray shield, flap boards, a revised cockpit hatch system and cleats where they are needed.
View attachment C - DI 32B - Boards up - not chocked - no shock cord.JPG
The 4-inch cleats on the flap board mounts are used to tie the boat to marsh spikes whilst gunning.
View attachment D - DI 34 - Flap Board Mounts - with hinges, thatch rail and 4-inch cleat.JPG
Here is a duck's eye view - but with flap boards down.
View attachment E - DI 38B - Ducks Eye View - darker.JPG
Her portside profile. I moved the "numbers" from the decks - where they would be covered by Salt Hay - to the sides to make them visible/legal. The numbers themselves were new - from DIY Vinyl Lettering as usual for me. I had difficulty, though, trying to move the registration stickers. They are engineered not to be removed. I tried first with my heat gun - which has worked in the past when several stickers are stuck atop one another. As this was single sticker, it shrank and wrinkled beyond re-use. This one I removed with a razor blade - no heat. It would have worked better if I had made up a 3x3 piece of wax paper to apply to the glue side as it came up. Without the wax paper, parts stuck to itself. Therein lies madness.... (and a new set of stickers)
View attachment F - DI 39 - Portside Profile.JPG
Here is the foredeck - with one of my XL Spray Shields that I developed for South Bay Duckboats.
View attachment G - DI 40 Bow quarter.JPG
Another view of the forward end. The hull looks fast and stable - with little draft.
View attachment H - DI 41 - Foredeck.JPG
All of the thatch rails - except for those on the Spray Shield (laminated Mahogany) were made from Trex decking - as requested by the Owner and a first for me. I learned a lot - both attributes and limitations of plastic "lumber". (I have used PVC lumber for other applications on duckboats.)
This product (not certain it's Trex brand - need to check back with my lumber yard) seems to have a composite core coated with a pure plastic skin. It is: much heavier than wood; much less stiff; does not hold a screw. I tried both marine epoxy and Gorilla Glue (polyurethane). The latter seems to work better. It machines nicely, including sanding, and takes paint well. I selected grey boards so any chafe through the paint would look OK. Of course, they should never rot.
Because of the "mid-course corrections", I did have the opportunity to splice long lengths together. I used 1:8 splices and feel better with the Gorilla Glue. I am anxious to see how the splices hold up in use.
Finally, instead of the countersunk flathead or ovalhead fasteners I use on wooden rails, I opted for panheads because I was afraid the countersinks would weaken the rails.
View attachment I - DI 35 - Foredeck thatch rail - Trex and panheads.JPG
The factory cockpit hatch was full-length. I cut it in about half and added thatch rails to the aft section as it will be in place when hiding.
View attachment J - DI 47 - stern hatch and chocked flap boards.JPG
Continued.....
SJS
One of the interesting aspects of my gunning boat endeavors is the variety of craft I find in my shop. I have restored a bunch of old classics - and have a bunch more in the queue. And, I've done my share of "mid-century moderns" - 'glass gunning vessels from the 70s and 80s that have become classics, especially South Bay Duckboats. This Spring I have had a Sculling Boat in the shop that must be near its century mark. But, I just completed a boat that was built in the last few years. No rehabilitation was needed; I simply added a host of custom features - "appurtenances" here at Pencil Brook Boatworks - for a Duck Invader 13.
Between the aforementioned Sculling Boat and other NDR projects, there was no room in my shop. This vessel got my attentions in my bay of our car barn.
I brushed on its topcoat of Pettit 3303 - Dull Dead Grass on Friday morning. It was a glorious sunny day...
View attachment A - Frog Pond and Hayfield B.JPG
....so I hauled it out into the sunshine to bake. No need to paint the hull - but everything from the rail up got the 3303.
View attachment B - DI 30 - Final Paint - baking in sun.JPG
The "work order" underwent a number of changes during the course of the customizing. This is the result: lots of thatch rails, a rigid spray shield, flap boards, a revised cockpit hatch system and cleats where they are needed.
View attachment C - DI 32B - Boards up - not chocked - no shock cord.JPG
The 4-inch cleats on the flap board mounts are used to tie the boat to marsh spikes whilst gunning.
View attachment D - DI 34 - Flap Board Mounts - with hinges, thatch rail and 4-inch cleat.JPG
Here is a duck's eye view - but with flap boards down.
View attachment E - DI 38B - Ducks Eye View - darker.JPG
Her portside profile. I moved the "numbers" from the decks - where they would be covered by Salt Hay - to the sides to make them visible/legal. The numbers themselves were new - from DIY Vinyl Lettering as usual for me. I had difficulty, though, trying to move the registration stickers. They are engineered not to be removed. I tried first with my heat gun - which has worked in the past when several stickers are stuck atop one another. As this was single sticker, it shrank and wrinkled beyond re-use. This one I removed with a razor blade - no heat. It would have worked better if I had made up a 3x3 piece of wax paper to apply to the glue side as it came up. Without the wax paper, parts stuck to itself. Therein lies madness.... (and a new set of stickers)
View attachment F - DI 39 - Portside Profile.JPG
Here is the foredeck - with one of my XL Spray Shields that I developed for South Bay Duckboats.
View attachment G - DI 40 Bow quarter.JPG
Another view of the forward end. The hull looks fast and stable - with little draft.
View attachment H - DI 41 - Foredeck.JPG
All of the thatch rails - except for those on the Spray Shield (laminated Mahogany) were made from Trex decking - as requested by the Owner and a first for me. I learned a lot - both attributes and limitations of plastic "lumber". (I have used PVC lumber for other applications on duckboats.)
This product (not certain it's Trex brand - need to check back with my lumber yard) seems to have a composite core coated with a pure plastic skin. It is: much heavier than wood; much less stiff; does not hold a screw. I tried both marine epoxy and Gorilla Glue (polyurethane). The latter seems to work better. It machines nicely, including sanding, and takes paint well. I selected grey boards so any chafe through the paint would look OK. Of course, they should never rot.
Because of the "mid-course corrections", I did have the opportunity to splice long lengths together. I used 1:8 splices and feel better with the Gorilla Glue. I am anxious to see how the splices hold up in use.
Finally, instead of the countersunk flathead or ovalhead fasteners I use on wooden rails, I opted for panheads because I was afraid the countersinks would weaken the rails.
View attachment I - DI 35 - Foredeck thatch rail - Trex and panheads.JPG
The factory cockpit hatch was full-length. I cut it in about half and added thatch rails to the aft section as it will be in place when hiding.
View attachment J - DI 47 - stern hatch and chocked flap boards.JPG
Continued.....
SJS
