First Mallard Attempt -- Critique Away

Joe Spoo

Joe Spoo

Member
I've been a little hesitant to post this but figure the only way I'm going to improve is from feedback, and since I don't have anyone local I'm looking for input from the virtual carving gang.

This is my first attempt at a mallard. I have some finishing work to do, waiting for my eyes to arrive and have yet to attach the tail board or head. Any criticisms, suggestions, etc are very welcome. I did this all with hand tools and because I don't yet have a vice setup had to rasp everything and didn't get to break out the drawknife. It is from a kit, I'm not even sure where I got it as I've moved it through three different states before finally setting up a carving spot. Let me know what you think:

sideview.jpg



topview.jpg



backview.jpg


frontview.jpg


Again, thanks for taking a look. And many thanks to the guys from the forum who have been more than helpful with my questions!

Joe
 
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I've been a little hesitant to post this but,,,,
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Joe,

No more hesitant than I am to critique. I consider myself a beginning carver and still [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]struggle[/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] with the same issue which I will point out. More rounding,,,,more rounding. For example, the cheeks are too flat and should have more taper towards the front. Suggest you look at pictures of Mallard decoys from established carvers, check out E Allens for example, many others also.

Body is really pretty good, no very good, for first attempt. Could also use more rounding top to bottom as seen in head on view. Overhead view, showing profile looks good to me. Personally I'd put a little more taper into the tail and rump areas.

This is a very good first attempt and you will be well served to finish it as is or make some refinements, your choice.
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Joe, nice job.Save the cork shaving {the powdered stuff} and mixe it with elmers glue to fill in the gap in the tail as seen in frame#3. On my mallard tails I will drill two, 3/16th's hole equilly spaced thru the top of the cork and down thru the wood tail into the other end of cork, but not all the way thru-it,then I cut the desired lenght of 3/16 wood dowel [OAK]put some elmers glue in the holes and insert the dowels and wipe off excess glue, let dry for severl hr'sthen trim off excsess dowel.This will make the tail stronger and rigged to abuse so it can't bend upward to easy and thus might break the upper portion of cork tail off. Ihave a yellow lab so Idon't need to say more about broken tails.
 
Joe,
First let me say that your first bird is a great start to a carved rig. You did a real good job.
So here are my observations that may add a little more realism to your next decoy.
On the first photo I'd like to see the under rump area with more slope to it.
On the second pic the front part of the sides appear somewhat more pronounced than should be and could be turned down some, with more roundness of the side pockets toward the back. In other words a little more fullness to the side pockets. Also, where the upper rump blends down into the tail board insert, it should be rounded instead of straight across so as to show more of the tail insert on the sides.
The third and fourth pics show that the very back of the bottom is straight across. Round it some. And the side pockets are somewhat flat. Again, round them a little more.
These would be just small adjustments on your next bird. You have a very nice first bird. Far better than many of us did on our first.
Have fun carving your rig.
 
Thanks guys keep them coming. Dave, I have really struggled with the cheek area, and it appears that I have a dominant "side" with carving now that I look at the pictures the right side appears more rounded than the other?

Kevin, thank you for your suggestions, and to make sure I'm understanding the areas you are talking about I'm adding these pictures. Are the red areas the ones I need to work on? And in the second view, with the back arrows should I be coming down from the "gutter" are with more round to the side of the tail?

Again, many thanks to all!

sideviewmods.jpg


topviewmods.jpg


backviewmods.jpg

 
joe, you can do the undercut on the tail if you wish, but keep in mind, the ducks aren't going to see that part fo the decoy
if you have found a dominant side-ie-a fatter side on the head, turn the head in that direction---as things stretch, they thin out, and as they fatten, they tend to get puffier--
Was the width of the wood an issue with the head? i ask this because of the flatness on the cheeks--2 3/4" to 3" stock for a head may suit you better--remember, it is much easier to remove slowly than to try to put back,,that may aid the flatness on side of the head
Profile looks fine, side view could stand to stay wide at base, for best ride on the water, but as you come up toward where side and shoulders-scaps-insert, the deke can begin to get elss wide----think of a pyramid wih the tom third removed, then think of what you need to do to incorporate THAT shape into the side view of the deke--front views of ducks on water will show you pretty often that they are widest at bottom, and tend to get rounder---not radically, though toward the top of the back, with a little v around center---
You will find that the more you make, the more you will be able to see what needs to be done a little clearer--
I assume the tail is already glued---you can fill that void, or carve to the point where tail inserts into body---think of a duck as a teardrop with a tail inserted at the narrowest point---widest point on body is aobut midway between chest and tail, more forward of center---
man, all of this may give you eyestrain---just get that one finished and painted, then keep going--great way to spend the off season time, plus, you get to gun over your own stuff, which IS a LOT MORE FUN!!
 
first thing i know exactly where you kit came from. its def. a jennings decoy co. kit. their heads are way to thin, dont allow for much attitude or creativity. as far as a critique you've got a good start. what the guys have said so far is a good bunch of advice. not much more i can add other then cant wait to see it painted.

eddie
 
Joe,
What George says about the under rump area is true. If the birds are inspecting it, you should have already had the gun up and working. The areas you poinnted out are what I was looking at. A rasp is a very good tool for use on cork and would bring down the front area easily and smoothly. Also, try using a mill file if you want to smooth it down some after the rasp.
Keep at it and you'll have you own rig soon enough.
 
Rounding, as previously stated, is one of the biggest things a beginning carver needs to remember. It helps me to think of it this way - the outline on your top pattern should be a line only on the side of the bird as well. Too often beginners make this an entire area. Marking the widest parts of the side pockets, neck, and side of the head with lines is one of the first things I do after band sawing the pattern. These lines shouldn't really be touched by anything but sandpaper. Everything else should fall away from those lines.

Hopefully this makes a little sense.

Keep up the good work.
 
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