Installing transducer on duckboat question

Mark W

Well-known member
I enjoyed picking up a ice fishing stick this past winter and think I'll do a little fishing this summer as well. My Dad was given a fish finder a couple of years ago and it has never been out of the box. Since I've never fished, I know next to nothing about them. My question is this. I am going to be installing the fish finder on the boat. I am assuming there is a transducer that needs to be mounted and I am certian there are instruction for how to do this with the fish finder. What I'd like to know is there anyway to install the transducer and make it removeable? Maybe this is how they all install, I don't know. This boat gets dragged over a bunch of stuff come hunting time and I don't need one more thing to repair.

Thank you much -

Mark W
 
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Hey Mark,


An easy way to do it would be to make a 2 piece bracket that would go through the grab handle on the transom. Just attach the transducer to a stick, slide it up through the grab handle until it is at the appropriate height and then screw a U-shaped chunk of wood to the stick above and below the handle to hold it in place. Easy install and removal. Stick and chunk are appropriate technical terms for this type of application.

Gregg
 
My uncle has a removable one for our boat at the cabin on Rainy Lake. (the boat stays there all year) He made or bought a u shaped piece of aluminum about two pieces wide. One lenght was about as long as the transome that he attached the transducer to and the other was about 4 inches or so. We would just hang it over the edge when needed. On my boat the transducer is mounted to the the back of the transome so that is even with the bottom of the boat and wont drag.
 
Since I've never fished, I know next to nothing about them.
They won't work on a duck boat, best you just box it up and send it to me.

Depending on the hull material, you might also consider installing it inside the hull and "shooting" the transducer signal thru the hull. No protrusions at all that way.
 
Oh yeah, the boat is a 14' Lund aluminum something or another.

A friend dos this to his. They take a piece of aluminum block and screw and silicone it to the transom on the boat. They tap and die this block and then screw the transducer to this block of aluminum. I think this sounds like a pretty sweet set up as I can then remove the transducer easily as needed and don't have to worry abuot having holes in the hull when doing so.

I also like the "stick" and "chunk" as well. Same idea, different route to get there.

How about a mounting spot for the actual fish finder itself. Once again, it needs ot be removeable.

Mark W
 
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Mark, shoot it through the hull, it is literally the easiest way to do it if you have access to the hull and you will never have to worry about it. You need 2 cups of epoxy and a something to use as a mold, like a yogurt container with the bottom cut out and taped to the hull. Tape the yogurt container down with some 3m duct tape. put a cup of epoxy in the mold you made (don't whip it up so it is full of bubbles - stir slowly so no bubbles). Set transducer in epoxy, so that it is level side-to-side and front-to-back and balance it there with some tape or something. Once the first epoxy cures, add a bit more epoxy if you need some to bring it up to the centerline or so to get the whole base set in. You don't need a special transducer, the standard one will work fine.

T
 
Mark,
What Tod said ecept make sure you are not over a rib in the bottom of the boat. If you had one of those long tail racers you wouldn't need to worry about the depth.
 
Mark,
What Tod said ecept make sure you are not over a rib in the bottom of the boat. If you had one of those long tail racers you wouldn't need to worry about the depth.


Yeah, for sure that is a good idea.

On my snowgoose, the through hull transducer was one of my favorite mods. I put it about 3 feet forward o the transom, just where you stand. To do it again I woudl have put it a couple feet more forward to give you just a little bit more warning when motoring through rocky areas. 2' further forward (5' forward of the lower unit) would be just enough time I think to slap the motor in neutral when put-putting through rocky areas and still let it work on plane. As it is, now I have enough warning to cringe when a motor over a big boulder, but not to react in a useful manner.

T
 
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