Lund Alaskan Wood Rotting issues

J

John Turley

Member
Anyone experience this out of a Lund Alaskan
alaskantransom2002ssv-20.jpg

 
John,

I've got a 1995 Lund 1775 and have noticed that the plywood used is some of the cheapest looking stuff I have ever seen. The only place I have had a problem though is in the port side floor and will need to replace it this year. The boat sat outside for about 4 years and got full of water (at least up to the floor) once or twice so I guess it was my fault. Doesn't diminish my view that Lund is a top notch boat either.
 
This boat has never sat outside besides hunting the floor went first and then then the transom I bought the boat right before lund dealer went out of business so maybe it was full of water while it was on the lot.
 
John, A buddy of mine has a 2005 Lund and every piece of wood in the boat(floor and lids) other than the transom has rotted out. The boat is always stored in a barn. He's been fighting with Lund for over a year to have them replaced.
 
When you see rot, cut it out, it will spread. Treat it with wood preservative. Fresh water rots the wood, not salt water. Leave the plug out. Had to replace them before, not the best plywood. Enbalming fluid kills the rot, got a friend?
 
Lund, as well as any other manufacturer, has to rely upon suppliers for it's materials. There will always be isolated cases of inferior materials getting by quality control.
 
What's funny is if you look at the btm right of the transom you'll notice a small 6x8 section was cut and then they filled it it and used corrugated splices like on picture frame corner to piece it back. You will see the piece laying on top of the old transom. I love the boat and decided to repair the transom myself and install new floor, I wish I built a alum cage out of 2" tubing and have it wood free but I resined the wood transom, sealed all holes with 3m 5200 so hopefullly ill get 10 yrs out of ot or more. I approached lund with the transom issue and they took care of material and I performed labor, I didn't approach them on floor cause I wanted alum at some time to just wash blood out of it easier.
 
There seem to be more and more cases coming to light of inferior wood in Lund products. I had to replace one of their transoms after three years. The wood was not underwater but the boat was left moored in a boat well most of one summer. The boat had an automated bilge pump that kept most of the water out and oddly it was the transom that went, not the floor. Lund was very resistant to accepting responsibility and the marina that sold it to me replaced the wood out of their own pocket. The replacement wood has stood up well. I now exclusively trailer the boat and either keep it covered or in the garage. The convenience of the boat well was not enough to offset the additional wear and tear of exposure to the elements.
 
I would agree with that statement in most cases but it sure looks to me like this had to be an engineering spec. issue. The plywood in my boat is 3/4" and I think it is 3 or 4 ply and softer than any plywood I have used or even seen before. Pretty much junk in my book.

I sure like the idea of a diamond plate floor except for how hot it must get in the summer.
 
John,

I'm looking forward to the pics. Did you run into any issues putting in the diamond plate? Like you said, it sure would be easier to clean.
 
After 3 years thats ridiculous for the kind of money they get for their boats . almost sunk my pro v by turning on the livewells while salmon fishing on lake mich 3 screw holes on the intake hose . Rivets leaking at bottom of transom . I feel lund is selling their name now . For the money crestliner no more rivets
 
Pete,

I was trying to be generous but unfortunately you have hit the nail on the head. Too many times now days, quality seems to take a back seat.
 
I dont think its as much an engineering issue as a bean counter issue. buy the cheapest crap to save money. It happens way to often these days.
 
Pete, it weas easy but I have the center consol which is one full sheet around 60" x 124 it tapered from stern to bow a little but I left 3/16 gap next to the rod lockers and filled that with 5200 to creat a flexable joint if the hull would flex and not bind or rub on the alum floor. I pulled up old floor prepped the stringer with zinc chromate primer and applied dots of 5200 every 12" to give it a little cushion plus elminated crevice corrosion between the stringer and the alum plate. I was going to use 1/8" but the center tank is around 22" and 1/8 would have more deflection. I ran some numbers on the weiight.factoring in plywood, seat bases nautalux vs 316 alum I've gained about 70 lbs now that's dry weight but what happens when you have saturated plywood then I assume add 15 percent or more for plywood floor.
 
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