New Gorilla Glue on the market!

Dave Shady Larsen

Dave Shady Larsen

Well-known member
I just talked to my rep at Gorilla Glue and she is sending me a new formula that is out. FAST DRYING and they claim just as strong as the old stuff. Color is white not tan when cured.

I had always had great luck with the old stuff and will report back when I get to try gluein up some of the new stuff!

Dave

only bummer is 2oz bottles only!
 
The old stuff gets brittle with age.

Ed.
Click to expand...


How old are you talkin ed? I have calls I glued up 1/4" pcs of wood with that stuff from 5 years back and still together? I know if you leave it exposed to Sunlight and dont paint or seal it there is a chance of breaking down. Just wondered what you ran into. I have been selling this product in my shop for a long time and always like to get some feedback on what happened. PM me if you dont want to post it here would like to know what happend to your project so I can feed that back to my sales people. They do like to know if there is a problem.
 
Dave,

Sorry to butt in, but if you have a chance to give feedback to the company, I'd like to give you my experience. I have gone completely away from Gorilla glue, because I have found that over time it does loose it's bonding ability after exposure to the elements (especially going from freeze to thaw). I used to use it for attaching heads and keels, and just about 60% of my neck joints have cracked, and I've had many keels break loose. I haven't had this happen with other adhesives (epoxy and Titebond II). I believe it is a very good adhesive as long as you don't put it in harsh (freezing) environments.

Thanks for the opportunity for feedback.

Steve
 
Gorilla glue used to be my favorite glue. I've glued all sorts of things with that from a hovercraft to pushpoles. I quit using it because I found after about 2 years the glue gets brittle and the bond breaks down. Now I use the much cheaper PL brand Premium Construction Adhesive. It seems to do a better job over time (I glued up the wooden beams on my trailer I made for the hovercraft in 2000 with the PL brand glue. The hovercraft has long ago been cut up and burned (not because of the glue), but I'm still using the trailer to haul stuff.) Seems like Gorilla glue is the most expensive glue on the shelf, but it's not the best.

Ed.
 
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I passed this info along to the customer service rep and will let you know what I hear back from them.

Thanks for the Input guys, I to use it for heads and keels but I also use a long deck screw into the heads with a fender washer and screw the keels onto the cork. Never had one come off. I have had paint on the head joints crack from people throwing via the head but never lost a keel.

will let ya know when I get some feedback.
 
Steve

If you haven't already you might want to switch to epoxy. It has a very long shelf life, per unit is a lot cheaper, and can be mixed and thickened to do many jobs. The only way it fails is if it was improperly mixed or the joinery was doomed by bad design which isn't the fault of the epoxy.
 
I've never used Gorrilla glue, but have used a bunch of the Pro-Bond..same ingerediants, same foaming action. I quit using it because it seems to crystalize and break down..it's basically a foam bond. I too have what looks like cracks at the neck of some decoys and am not sure if it is just the paint or the poly glue. I haven't had any negative problems on cork that I have glued together to make larger blocks.....yet. I agree with Eric, epoxy is the best way to go but it's a pain in the butt (to me) to have to mix up a miniscule amount for a head or tailboard. On my hollow wood dekes I have been using Titebond 2 and 3..I have even used good OLD titebond and never had a problem.
 
Response from Gorilla Glue, I did link them to this thread so it could be read for information.

st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }

Hey Dave Thanks for your email.

A few comments:

1) Gorilla Glue does not go brittle with age. In Various parts of the world (primarily Europe since the glue was developed there) there have been boats made with Gorilla Glue 40 years ago and still in the water, many windows and doors made over the past 40 years etc and all doing great. Glue joints do need to be protected from uv rays etc.. with a paint or sealant of some kind.

2) There are some misconceptions about the glue that are important to understand. The glue is not a gap filling adhesive (like PL Construction adhesive or epoxies) so all surfaces must be machined to make sure your surfaces are very tight fitting and you must have enough clamping pressure to ensure a closed joint. Especially when you are talking about outdoor exposure.

3) Gorilla Glue has passed the Type 1 test for exposure to water and passed with flying colors (as would an epoxy I would assume). A Titebond II product is only rated to Type II, which is a less stringent test.

It is almost impossible to give specifics to cases that we don’t know the whole story, but I would certainly encourage the guys to ask questions on anything before they do their gluing and we are always ready to help. Gorilla Glue is an incredibly strong and versatile glue for literally thousands of uses, but there are certainly times when other glues might be better suited to a specific job


Jake Ragland
Gorilla Glue Co.
 
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