Re-burning Cork Black Ducks

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~


I had some help this past weekend with re-furbishing my old "saltwater rig" of 9 cork Black Ducks. I had made the birds back in the late 80s. Because had I used the old Wiley Cork - which was fully waterproof - I was able to finish them with linseed oil and a torch - and no additional sealing. I have hunted over them for many years - every day of the season when I still lived on Long Island - and they still looked okay - certainly good enough to fool all but the most discerning Black Duck. However, since I am getting my Sneakbox back into fighting trim, I thought I ought to get the rig looking its best.
Here are a few earlier this year - the best BEFORE photo I have.


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Mike Braden and his son Kyle came up from coastal New Jersey to see how it's done - and to lend some very capable hands.



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The prep was easy: I had vacuumed the dust off the day before, and then we carried them out to the picnic table. This is definitely "an outside job".

We first covered the painted heads with heavy duty aluminum foil - so the heat did not ruin the paint. Then, we brushed a wet coat of linseed oil onto the bodies - staying a quarter-inch or so away from the head paint. Kyle is pretty handy with the camera. I am hoping he has a shot or 2 showing the foil-wrapped heads - looking like so many baked potatoes.




The Bernzomatic torch does all the work. The objective is to light the linseed oil on fire so it begins to scorch the cork beneath it - but not to set the cork afire so that it turns to charcoal. I know Kyle has one photo showing a bird fully engulfed in flames - very dramatic - and I hope he (or Mike) adds it here.


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We used gravity and a rag to control the flames.


After burning, the soot and oil are rubbed over and into the body with the oily-sooty rag.

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The fresh new body plumage makes the heads "pop" - even without new paint.


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Once the birds were all re-burned, the bottoms got a fresh coat of duckboat paint. First, though, I bored out each hole in the keel. As the years have rolled on, I have come to appreciate larger anchor line holes - so reeving my #72 tarred nylon lines through the keels becomes an easier, tool-free task. So, the 1/8-inch holes are now 5/16.


Note the lead ballast poured into the bottoms of the keels. And - since this was before the days of nice long deck screws - the heads were attached with 1/4-inch (heavy!) galvanized lag bolts.




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I will do a bit of touch-up painting on a few heads - then lines and anchors get tied back on - and they will once again be "ready-to-hunt".



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All the best,


SJS
 
Steve,

Those look great!

Have you made a blk duck rig out of BSC (pressed insulation cork)? If so, how did you finish the bodies? Is it possible to seal the porous cork while taking advantage of it being almost the correct color already? I'm planning on putting a rig together this summer and while I sealed and filled the heck out of the BSC brant I did a few years ago, there was no attempt to have the cork show through nor did any at all. I think for Blk duck decoys, having the cork show through would look good and be effective. Any thoughts on how to do it successfully?

Scott
 
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Scott~

I have never tried to keep that perfect Black Duck color of "refrigeration" (black) cork. I know others have tried. One approach I recall was submerging the bodies in a bucket of Thompson's Water Seal - for hours? days? I think the active ingredient is primarily wax. That was a long time ago, though - just about the time I left Long Island - and I have not had follow-up reports.

I would be interested to hear others' experiences.

All the best,

SJS

 
Shape the body with a rasp. Collect all of the dust and small chunks. If you have BIG voids select chunks that you can fit in the void. Mix the dust with a good matte "gym floor sealer", Lowe's used to carry McClosky brand and had a "gym floor sealer", ( This product was matte finish and flexible so it didn't become a hard shell and crack when the cork was compressed ), Into a peanut butter consists demand use that to fill the body..

You end up filling the voids and sealing the cork plus retaining the black cork color.



Steve
 
Thanks Steve S.,

So the [font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]McClosky sealer will hold up without UV or any other protection? No, I don't plan on leaving them out in the sun all that much, but I didn't realize [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]McClosky's[/font] would hold up alone to a water/external world. Do you know if this is what Bill Wasson used? His hold up well. I will give it a try.

Thanks much,
Scott
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I never had any issues with the ones I did and they're in their 20's and 30's now.....


Not what Bill used though I don't know what it was that he used......I'd bet ValOil would work but I don't think that's something you can get anymore unless you go knock Bob Furia or maybe Steve, ( I'd bet Steve has some somewhere in his shop), in the head....if you plan on that grab me some decoys or I'll turn you in......


For whats its worth I used the oil base.....


Steve
 
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Pat~

As far as I know, the newer tan cork is not truly waterproof - will absorb water over time unless sealed. However, I do not have first-hand experience with it.

SJS

 
Good afternoon, Bill (aka My Toughest Critic!)

Back in the mid 80s - when I made these - I was still under the sway of Conventional Wisdom/Decoy Contest rules....

With age I have gained wisdom. The new cork Black Ducks I am making have the flat keel - and my new hollow wooden birds have modest Wildfowler-style keels.

All the best,

SJS

 
Good Day Capt,
I need to keep the standards HIGH. LOL
The reason I ask, I Believe Al McCormick used 4 inch black cork and would only use flat keels. I made my decoys using 5 inch tan cork but could not get them to float right with flat keels.
 
Al McCormick used 2-3/4 to 3" x 3/4" thick flat keels. His best decoy was the resting low head (humpback) black duck. they were made from 5" refrigerator cork. The Wylie cork is a bit denser and rides a little lower unless you hollow it.

Joe
 
That was really interesting, Steve. What a great set of decoys. I sure loved the head positions on them. What beautiful work to bring them back to life!
Al
 
I really enjoyed this post Steve. So many ways to make a decoy... so many ways to fool a duck. Makes one think that the art is more important than the purpose. You sir are the consummate artist always exploring new avenues of expression. All in pursuit of a duck or two. :)
 
Good morning, Jack~

Those heads are all Sanfords. But, I do concede that my style was influenced when I first saw McCormicks. His nice fat cheeks - because he used 4x4 stock - struck me as the way our wintering Black Ducks should look.

All the best,

SJS

 
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