Sunfish to sneakbox

C

Curt Constance

Member
Here?s a project I?ve been working on for a few months now on and off. I picked up this sunfish last summer and started the renovation this spring. I?ve been hunting out of a classic barnegat built by Dave Enos out of PA for the last few years and really enjoy it but I miss the opportunity to invite a friend along so I decided to add another sneakbox to the arsenal. I wish I had taken more progress pictures along the way but I?ll share what I do have. I?m just about finished up now. I got the foam poured last week and ordered some paint yesterday. Just need to sew up a spray dodger and make a seat/backrest.



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Good morning, Jim~


Congratulations on a very nice conversion!



I am wondering if you can re-use the original splash guard as a toe rail for your dodger... Maybe cut it so it sticks up about an inch - and so can hold snap studs for the lower edge of your dodger - and mount it a bit further forward?


All the best,


SJS

 
Thanks Steve!

I did hang on to the original splash guard as I wasn?t sure if I would reuse it or not. I like the idea of using it to fasten the dodger to. Currently I?m trying to decide if I just want to keep the dodger simple or make it a bit larger. If it was larger it would certainly make a nice place to store decoys so they are not in the way during travel but it also would greatly increase the profile of the boat...decisions..


Curt
 
Curt

That is a really nice transformation. Couple of questions. Will the decoy racks be needed to support the motor bracket when you put a motor on it? Also, where did you get the front handle? I like the shape.

Eric
 
Yeah, very cool. I don't know what HP engine you want to put on there but seems to me that you could shed some weight by making that decoy rack and motor board with less stout lumber.
Great job, looking forward to seeing it in the water.
 
Thanks Eric!

I don?t believe the motor board will need the support of the decoy rack with the added reinforcement in other areas but I do intend on fastening the decoy rack to it. And yes that front handle was the original that was on the sunfish.

Curt
 
Hey Paul,

I have a 9.9 mariner I intended on testing on it. It?s the same motor I use on my classic barnegat. I considered planing the decoy rack thinner before sealing and painting but it?s made from white cedar and is already quite light. Not sure it would be worth the pound I might lose.

Curt
 
Love the conversion. Cant wait to see her in action.
9.9 might be a little stout??
 
Carl,

We?ll find out! Hopefully it will be ready for the water in a couple weeks so I can test it out. I?ve got a 6 horse as well if it seems too much with the 9.9.

Curt
 
Nice conversion! Your high level of craftsmanship is obvious.

Re: motors--fyi I run a 1980 Higbee BBSB with an 8hp 2stroke Johnson, it goes as fast as I want to go when loaded with just myself and decoys/gear. In summer the 8hp will plane easily with me (175lbs) and wife (118lbs) in it. The 8hp weighs about 10lbs less than my 9.9hp Johnson 2 stroke--I'm assuming your Mariner 9.9 weighs about the same as a Johnson. So the 8hp is my preference (easier on fuel too). Only thing I don't like about the 8hp (vs, 9.9 ) is the 8hp can't be flushed with muffs--gotta put it on a stand (or leave on transom) and run in tank (I hunt mostly saltwater). Not a concern if you're hunting freshwater... BTW if your 6hp is an OMC depending on Model/Year you might be able to modify to an 8hp.

Once again, nice conversion...please keep us posted re: your tests on the water.
 
Thanks David!

Don?t look too close, my fiberglassing skills are still pretty green. Haha.

I like the thought of the 8hp just for the weight benefit. One of by buddies just picked up an 8hp tohatsu and he loves it. Maybe I?ll try that on the back of it as well and see how it performs. I?m leaning away from my 6hp just because it?s a long shaft so it?s more of a back up in case I get in a pinch. I also have a 9.8 merc that is very light but it is a 1964 and it?s reliability is some days questionable.

Paint showed up yesterday so hopefully paint this weekend and see trial in a week or so!

Curt
 
Curt~


Just a cautionary note on longshaft outboard on a shortshaft transom (20" v 15"). I learned the hard way with my first clamboat whilst still a lad that fatal damage to the motor's head can occur with long-term use of the longer shaft on the shorter transom.


All the best,


SJS

 
Steve,

That?s good to know. I don?t intend on using it unless something catastrophic happens to one of my other motors mid season but I do appreciate the info!

Curt
 
Curt, you're welcome, any compliments on your conversion project are well-deserved.

Re: small 2cycle outboard weights--I have owned/bought/resold a bunch and it is crazy how some of the weights vary. I bought a cream puff 6hp Mercury (#3372456 or J3061988, I am presuming a 1988 model?) and that thing was a tank--70 pounds--so I resold it. Somewhere I read that Mercury used the engine blocks from 15hp or larger engines to make a 6hp? On OMC's I had a 1969 6hp Johnson 6R69M that I weighed at only 53 #. A 1985 Evinrude E6RC)B I have weighs 58 lbs, the 8hp model of same year weighs 58 lbs also. I have a 1998 Evinrude 8hp E8RECR that weighs 60 lbs. My 1986 9.9hp Johnson J10RCDB weighs 73 pounds--not much more than that old Mercury 6hp, Based on all this I like the 8HP OMC's best for weight and more than adequate power. Only thing I don't like is I cant flush with Muffs. According to Leeroy's Ramblings at one time Tempco made a flusher for 6.8hp's but I haven't been able to find one and my attempt to copy/design/build one didn't work--but I haven't given up.

I hope this helps.

Anybody have any ideas/theories why running a Long shaft on these low draft boats tends to ruin the powerheads? with a low transom height, the water intake sits even lower than normal height transom, that would create slightly higher water pressure at the lower unit's water intake, if anything that should improve water flow through impeller to powerhead. Or maybe the long shaft hits more stumps! lol
 
David~


It would take an outboard mechanic to explain the problems that can come with a too-long shaft. I presume it has something to do with extra forces that are exerted upon the crankshaft or other major components in the head. I am guessing the prop encounters much greater resistance from the water when buried too deep.



Before mine went - an Evinrude 33 circa 1970 - I did experience frequent overheating.


All the best,


SJS

 
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