Tdb price check

Jayb

New member
Hey all
Long time lurker that has gained a wealth of knowledge by reading these posts.
Finally decided to begin my search for a used tdb 14. Mainly looking for a classic but would consider a sea class.
I know times are crazy but wondering what someone should expect to pay for these

Thanks
Jayb
 
I bought my 2000 14SC with 25 Yamaha and good trailer this past summer for just under 8k and felt like I got a good deal, Most 14 classics I?ve seen recently have been in the 6k range and I?ve seen older 14 sea classes with newer engines list for as much as 15k, but that seems an outrageous price.

Hope this helps. Where are you located?
 
Wow that sounds like a great deal. Yes those numbers generally seem like what I?m seeing online. I?m located in ct. thanks for the reply.
 
prices vary based on age, condition, and prior manufacturers of the TDB-14'classics. Look for a boat with a hardcover if you can get one. If not, closely inspect the floor sections near the two stern floatation chamber's intersection with the floor and the stern splash well. Water that was allowed to pool in this area, if left sitting to freeze and thaw over the course of a winter will "work" to crack the resin/glass in this area, allowing water intrusion. I didn't like the fact that my boat had no running lights , or interior lighting so I wired a battery in after I built a small dedicated battery platform up in the bow opposite the helm station to balance the boat better as well as aiding getting it up on plane when loaded. The motor board is another inspection spot that should receive scrupulous attention prior making an offer. Replacing the grassing rails requires you to epoxy a resin impregnated hardwood dowel or a fiberglass dowel in each of the stanchion mount locations where the flotation foam supports underly the shelves, not too difficult to do, but time consuming. I think that Olsen Marine now supplies resin replacements. They produce boats that actually are a step above the original Maine built boats produced by the Clark brothers, mainly because they employ a resin infusing technique that minimizes resin while maximizing the ply strength via minimal residual air bubbles in the plys, as well as standardizing production quality on a hull-to-hull basis. I would be quite leary of ANY TDB built by the interim cluster of owners of the badge. Here is a repair the Olsen's making to one of those hulls made by a previous TDB manufacturer View attachment wood stringer TDB-17.jpg
 
Appreciate the response and info. Seems like most used boats are top dollar and on top of that 20-30 years old at this point. I?m not sure I?m ready to drop 20k min on a new boat from Olsen. I may have to broaden my search a little bit
Jay
 
Jayb said:
Appreciate the response and info. Seems like most used boats are top dollar and on top of that 20-30 years old at this point. I?m not sure I?m ready to drop 20k min on a new boat from Olsen. I may have to broaden my search a little bit
Jay

Build a boat!
 
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Open offer to stop by and check out my snowgoose. I'm in Newtown.
 
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Appreciate the offer. If I decide to go that route will definitely take you up on that!
 
Bankes boats are also well built, they seem to have really fallen off the face of the Earth after the onset of the pandemic. Since most of their sales are in the US, I assume they are having a tough time shipping across the border. I had to wade through a fair number of saltwater TDBs that were junk or heavily waterlogged before I found one with good bones. No, I did not pay anything close to $20,000 dollars for my TDB-17 Maine built classic.
 
Bankes has been churning out boats through the pandemic. When the border was closed, U.S. customers needed to go through Freeway Sports in Fenton, Michigan, as they were getting regular deliveries from Bankes. I ordered my Freedom in May 2020, and received it in September 2020
 
Would you be better off with an aluminum Duckwater based on the water logging and resin issues of the TDB or Bankes?
 
Bankes uses a wood stringer free foam injection process to build their hulls, like Everglades, Boston Whaler, Yellowtail, etc. The big advantage of this bull build approach is that the foam core is a fused one-piece unit that adheres to the entire hull and deck shell surface as well as its entire volume which absorbs the wave energy and disperses it throughout the hull, improving the ride significantly. No wood in the hull core equates to no wood to get waterlogged and rot. Water can still intrude through any crack or site of damage. I am not aware of any Bankes hull that has water intrusion issues, they are built really well. Pitboss Waterfowl had a pair of Bankes hulls that Jeff used for open ocean sea duck hunts. He is a chatty guy who will give you an honest straightforward assessment of their boats. Another thing to consider is that not all fiberglass resins are the same strength and quality, why I advocate avoiding TDBs built by interim owners of the Badge.

The only negatives of aluminum welded hull boats I hold, based on personal use experience, is that they can be a very cold ride and tend to ice-up via spray. Aluminum alloy doesn't flex much, which makes them a bit of a pounding ride in a mixed chop once the chop gets up around two feet. The Federal government was paying the fuel bills to haul and run the boat I was working out of, but I stopped every time to say "WOW" when I saw the fuel consumption cost.* If I were working in a saltwater environment, particularly where the tides could leave me on a rocky ledge or a rocks strewn tidal flat, I would award an aluminum hulled boat some significantly positive points. Also, the wave period is generally shorter on the Great Lakes versus "the salt", waves are generally smaller in height, but they come at you at a greater rate. This can beat you up pretty good when running in a blow or fishing in the trough. It also is more difficult to run before the wind with the shorter wave period since you tend to slide-off the crest of the wave you are trying to stay with since it is less steep. Consequently, you either spill over the crest or end-up going too slow to stay ahead of the following wave, both of which are not much fun, particularly when you get to do it for over an hour at a time.

*Jimmy Carter era
 
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