Ugh.....oh well, back to the workbench.

Joe Friday

Joe Friday

Well-known member
Supporter

somebody who makes decoys here please tell me that occasionally, you'll have one not turn out right. I hope I'm not the only one. my decoys are crude in comparison to many I see on this forum, but I hunt them anyway and they seem to work well. I enjoy this forum and learn so much from reading and seeing what others are doing.

I made a decoy this month, a wireless, canvas-covered blackduck, and when I float tested it, I found it was front-end heavy. that was a result of my choice of wood for the head, I think -- yellow pine. that was a mistake. I also used a cypress bottom board which I found to be heavier than the cedar I like to use. The cypress was considerably less expensive...again, that was a mistake, I think. Others I've made float really well and move with just the slightest breeze.

I typically use wood I have in the shop or what's easily available. but one gets what one pays for as a general rule of thumb.

Anyway, I do enjoy this forum very much and have for quite a while. I continue to look forward to the work of many others here for inspiration and ideas.

To all you craftsmen and craftswomen out there, thanks for being great.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIJUSbunZi_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
 
Joe.......ABSOLUTELY I turn out birds that just aren't "right". Mine aren't gorgeous like many on this forum either but usually I can make them work, even when they are screwed up. I have a few leaners, some that sit really low in the water and then one that just sits in the garage unfinished because it is too narrow and too heavy.

I like the way your canvas birds zip around on the water.
 
Joe,

When ya make working decoys each decoy is a lesson, and what happened to you is what we all learn.

That said, with canvas decoys the bottom board is the most important. That is what you float. Everything ABOVE the waterline must be considered as to weight and location. I try to use as little material above the bottom board as possible. The higher & heavier the material above the bottom board the more problems arise that must be dealt with.

Choose your materials wisely and if ya must, hollow as much of the head as possible if it is of heavier wood.


Correct the floating posture of the decoy you made and use it. They are only useful for so long no matter what.

my 2 cents
 
Sure do! I have some that never get finished because of a flaw I missed or a mistake I made. I have some that I finished, decided I no longer liked them and now use to test paint techniques on. I think trial and error is how you get better. Keep at it!
 
Joe, funny I see this post today. I spent 2 hours on a body shape I can see in my head, but I CAN NOT make it come out through my hands. It happens for sure. Frustrating, but part of the learning process! I keep most of them when that happens with thinking that someday I'll get back to them and figure it out, but I rarely do.

Have fun with it!

Bill
 
Just keep at it.. Takes a bit of time to oriwnt wyws, brain and hands together. Yellow is heavy, sugr, notso mucj. You can always place your ballast slightly aft, to overcome..One stool does not make a rig, hell three or four don't either. Keep at it!!
 
I have had a couple old decoys that have had a hand full of sand added to the hollow. This lets the hunter shift the sand on a leaning decoy. I have done this my self.16640334915374011247102707762385.jpg
 
Dave Engstrom said:
I think those decoys should work fine. The look pretty good to me.
Click to expand...

thanks Dave, yes I like those two from the video. They are both made of cedar and are pretty lightweight, and they have nice action in the places where I am able to hunt.

Good hunting!
 
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