Yamaha 25hp Two Stroke Electric Start neutral wiring

Huntindave McCann

Huntindave McCann

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Eric,

Getting ready to put my boat away for the winter. The motor will be in my garage so I will have access over the winter if needed.
Took a quick photo and traced some wire colors as best I could. 99% sure my diagram is correct.
View attachment 20211203_113920.jpg

As you can partially see in the above photo; the small gage red wire also runs to additional locations besides the starting circuit. The diagram only covers the starting circuit.

Now that I look at the photo; What I have labeled as "large gage red to battery" should be "large gage black with white tracer to battery" (and marked with the longer red collar)
View attachment solenoid.jpg
 
Dave

Does yours have the charger components? Or did you just wire the starting circuit? Or was it factory?

Eric
 
Eric Patterson said:
Dave

Does yours have the charger components? Or did you just wire the starting circuit? Or was it factory?

Eric
Click to expand...

Full electric from factory

Are you just wanting to add the starting circuit? If so, everything diagramed should take care of it.
 
That's what I'm pondering. Should I add the charging circuit, or just put the battery charger on when I get home? I kind of doubt I would ever run a battery down in a single outing.

Eric
 
I'm guessing as long as the battery had a decent capacity (80+ amp hrs, 4-500 cranking amps) you would be fine for even several outings. Adding the charging circuit usually involves a different flywheel along with the obvious components.

I'm throwing a charger on anyhow, simply because I have a trolling battery to charge. During use, the starter battery and trolling battery are separate. I have a voltmeter reading on my fishing sonar. The amount the battery drops, after a 2 second run time of the starter, is minimal.

Even battery draw for navigation lights added in should not "kill" the battery, again given a decent size capacity. In my sneak box (pull start), for navigation lights only, I use a 9 amp hr Sealed Lead Acid battery, which will run the lights for about 6+ hours. I recharge that battery after two outings.

I'd be most comfortable with a group size 24 battery under a "no onboard charging" system. Some guys will use a lawnmower size battery, but I'm just a little leery based on my winter ATV usage for ice fishing. I've had to go to a full size in that but on the other hand, we are talking single digit temps too.
 
Dave

The Broadbill has a 300 CCA garden tractor battery in it. I use the same battery in my Brant with the 40hp. That setup always cranks strong, but it has a rectifier and does recharge. I do run lights but not for very long. So my hunch is I'd have enough juice for a day's hunt. But still, I like to do things as the manufacturer did.

I'm studying parts diagrams and my flywheel is the same used on the elec start model of the same year, as is the coil. That tells me no big ticket items are needed and it should be easy as long as I can round up the electrical parts. There are some kits available but they have flywheels and I don't want to pay for something I already have. I don't know if they are OEM parts. They seem too cheap to be OEM. Hmmmm.

Eric
 
Eric Patterson said:
Dave

The Broadbill has a 300 CCA garden tractor battery in it. I use the same battery in my Brant with the 40hp. That setup always cranks strong, but it has a rectifier and does recharge. I do run lights but not for very long. So my hunch is I'd have enough juice for a day's hunt. But still, I like to do things as the manufacturer did.

I'm studying parts diagrams and my flywheel is the same used on the elec start model of the same year, as is the coil.
Eric
Click to expand...

Don't know If I am looking at the same model/year but the diagram I'm looking at shows two coils used on the electric model. One listed as a lighting coil and one as a charge coil. Also a second pulsar as well.

Resale would obviously be much better given a complete system. I was fortunate to be able to purchase used parts when I upgraded to electric on my Johnson motor.



View attachment coils.jpg
 
Eric Patterson said:
This is the kit. I think Yamaha went to different flywheels later on, hence the reason for a flywheel in the kit, but my earlier model can stick with its original. I hate to pay for the flywheel and bracket if not needed. Again, I wonder about the quality.

ELECTRIC START MOTOR YAMAHA OUTBOARD 25hp 2 Stroke 25MSHS FLYWHEEL | eBay

Edit: The neutral safety switch doesn't appear to be included. Jeeesh.
Click to expand...

Well technically the starter will work without it. [whistle]

You have any outboard boneyards around there? I can give you a couple places in Minnesota. Yamaha may be a harder find than say Evinrude or Merc parts.
 
I compared the base assembly for my motor (25MSHP) and the parts were the same. Looks like the coils within the same base assembly are the same too. Thanks for investigating with me.

Eric
 
Dave

There is one down the road and I've stopped there before but never saw my motor. Guess I could double check. But before I do that I'm going to keep sorting though the specifics and onlice sources.

Eric
 
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