boat wiring

Tod or Tom is there a hydraulic crimper that is both small and priced for the home owner/occasional user? A quick search yields kits with a set of dies for different size wires. Did I find the correct tool? I have always wished that the hand crimp tools worked better. This sounds like a tool I'd like to add to the tool box.
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The tool I bought is goes from 12 to 2/0 AWG. I bought it for some larger wire on a camper solar project. When I got it I tried to destroy some crimps and was pleased at how tough they were and was sold on the tool at that point. I will say that I have had great luck with just a standard squeeze type crimper on smaller wire common on boats - say 22-10 awg. Crimper I bought is a 10 ton Chinese hydraulic crimper that sells from 40-100 dollars depending on where you look (listed under a bunch of different names - mine is yellow, but they can also be red). I bought it because it was less expensive to buy the tool than to pay someone to put the 6 awg crimps on that I needed done. To do it again I'd look a little harder at the options more closely to maybe get a better tool with a wider die range, but I was thinking this was a one use tool for this one job (I didn't plan to fall in love). Given how well it works I will use it any chance I get, I'd even oversize wire just to use it on standard boat wiring.
 
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There is no way I am trying to dis the new style crimp connectors BUT I have chased way too many old school connectors that were crimped with a vise grip and left bare. Also I have been under the dash of way too many boats that have been "rewired" by just twisted wire and masking tape. I have never been able to understand why boats seem to get such sloppy electrical systems. And I might add some factory wiring is just short of horrible also. I do get the new style connectors are great and I am willing to give them a shot next big job (hopefully a BB3). and am open to any and all suggestions.
PS Does anyone know who needs to be slapped up side of the head for inventing ScotchLocks the cruelest joke in the 12 electrical world???
 
The wire crimpers I use are sold at NAPA Auto part number OTC4497A $22.00 It's a ratchet style crimper with adjustable crimp preasure for red, blue, and yellow heat shrink connectors. I use the blue and yellow when wiring my boats.

Tom
 
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One suggestion, get a spring-loaded splicing tool. It's way easier to splice wire with the spring-loaded tool compared to the regular one. I worked as a rigger at a boat manufacturer one summer. An old Hispanic dude taught me about wiring. I also recommend getting a butane torch to heat up th heat shrink. I see too many guys using lighters...a snall torch is way better.
 
I am sure most folks may know this but for those that don't, never use solid wires when wiring a boat. I had a boat that gave me the fits. Much of it was wired using 12/3 Romex wiring like you would find in your house. I had constant electrical problems. The Romex was used on12 VDC circuits like nav lights and so forth. I have no idea why the builder thought that was a good method.
The vibrations on the water cause the rigid solid wires to move back and forth and the solid wires will eventually break in two, whereas a multi-strand wire will flex and will not break. I chased down several breaks in the line with a continuity tester. It was a pain as the broke ends would often be in contact, but would cause intermittent failures when underway. I find it useful to pull or jiggle a wire when doing a continuity test to help locate a break. I ended up replacing all of the Romex wiring and did not have any more issues.
 
I am sure most folks may know this but for those that don't, never use solid wires when wiring a boat. I had a boat that gave me the fits. Much of it was wired using 12/3 Romex wiring like you would find in your house. I had constant electrical problems. The Romex was used on12 VDC circuits like nav lights and so forth. I have no idea why the builder thought that was a good method.
The vibrations on the water cause the rigid solid wires to move back and forth and the solid wires will eventually break in two, whereas a multi-strand wire will flex and will not break. I chased down several breaks in the line with a continuity tester. It was a pain as the broke ends would often be in contact, but would cause intermittent failures when underway. I find it useful to pull or jiggle a wire when doing a continuity test to help locate a break. I ended up replacing all of the Romex wiring and did not have any more issues.
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Solid wire - Yikes!
 
PS Does anyone know who needs to be slapped up side of the head for inventing ScotchLocks the cruelest joke in the 12 electrical world???
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Tom, Scotch Locks were designed to fill a very specific need. As you know, years ago vehicles were not set up for towing. Scotch locks were made for folks renting U-HAUL trailers. When these folks showed up at the trailer rental place, there needed to be a quick and easy way to get them wired up and on there way. Taa Daa,,,,,,,, enter the Scotch lock. As a teenager, I could get you wired and on your way in about two minutes. Ten minutes if I had to install a clamp on bumper hitch. Twenty minutes if you wanted a permanent trailer hitch.
Scotch Locks were never and still at NOT intended for anything more than a temporary connection.
 
Like Tom I prefer solder but use crimps most times. I worked on lift trucks for a few years and failures came from vibration at the crimp shoulder. The solution to that is the SHRINK TUBING as it takes away the hard corner of the crimp so the wire cannot work against it and break (without breaking the plastic insulation).
Just my experience, John
 
Scotch locks...hahaha! These things are a cruel trick on humanity! I've used them wiring a trailer before. I've never had them survive one trip.
 
Like Tom I prefer solder but use crimps most times. I worked on lift trucks for a few years and failures came from vibration at the crimp shoulder. The solution to that is the SHRINK TUBING as it takes away the hard corner of the crimp so the wire cannot work against it and break (without breaking the plastic insulation).
Just my experience, John
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What you describe is the accepted standard and why.
 
Dave , and there is the problem. I have seen ScotchLocks on boats that have been there for the life of the boat and don't get me started on the trailer messes that have been the fault of MISSUSED ScotchLocks. Once something works it is usually forgotten until it fails at the worst possible time and place. If ScotchLocks were a UHaul product they should have kepp them to themselves. I can appreciate the speed of rigging up a light harness but you and I both know how they have been misused forever.
 
What is the consensus on connectors such as these. Strip the wires, put them into the terminal connector (or butt splice in this instance), use a heat gun to "melt" th solder and then it heats the shrink wrap (with get inside) to seal the connection. These I love. Hope I haven't been making bad choices.
View attachment solderless1.jpg
Mark W
 
Mark,So does the heat gun actually melt solder or do you crimp the splice too? I am interested in any good improvement's.
 
What is the consensus on connectors such as these. Strip the wires, put them into the terminal connector (or butt splice in this instance), use a heat gun to "melt" th solder and then it heats the shrink wrap (with get inside) to seal the connection. These I love. Hope I haven't been making bad choices.

Mark W
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Mark I use the same along with Marine Heat Shrink, that does the same, shrinks and melts an internal sealant. Belt and suspenders. I have yet to have a fail at a connection. (hope that was not a mistake to announce).
 
Strip the wires, put them into the terminal connector (or butt splice in this instance), use a heat gun to "melt" th solder and then it heats the shrink wrap (with get inside) to seal the connection.
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Mark,
I hope you just mis-typed your procedure.
Should be as follows; Strip the wires, put them into the terminal connector (or butt splice in this instance) , crimp the connector, use a heat gun to "melt" the sealer ( no solder involved) and while heating the shrink wrap to seal the connection.
 
I did find this one, not the size specs of Tod's but close.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
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I wasn't trying to make a problem finding them, I didn't put up a name because the name and stock was very fluid. Every time I looked there was a different name. I got mine on Amazon and at the time there were several different names and a wide range of prices. Mine is Yescom, but also seems so go by CHIMAERA and it was $38, but they seem to be $42 now. A spectacular tool in my experience if you have large wire to crimp. If I was doing a whole boat I'd look at the one Tom suggests as well for small wire (although I've had fine luck with a pinch type crimper for smaller wires).

That harbor freight one looks very similar. My dies are plated not black, but the rest looks very similar. I found the specs varied some, but I was of the opinion they all came out of the same factory and were all the same when I was looking.
 
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What is the consensus on connectors such as these. Strip the wires, put them into the terminal connector (or butt splice in this instance), use a heat gun to "melt" th solder and then it heats the shrink wrap (with get inside) to seal the connection. These I love. Hope I haven't been making bad choices.

Mark W
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Mark I use the same along with Marine Heat Shrink, that does the same, shrinks and melts an internal sealant. Belt and suspenders. I have yet to have a fail at a connection. (hope that was not a mistake to announce).
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Yes, I have been buying bulk adhesive lined heat shrink and naked crimps. I like doing it that way. I feel like I get a better crimp that way.
 
Mark, don't believe those connecters have solder in them. I may be incorrect, but I've used ones that crimp and heat shrink with a sealer inside.
I would try one and give it a pull. Might be new, if so I'd buy a bunch...
 
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