BBSB Rehab Help

Latest Update:

-Remaining ribs removed
-All flotation foam removed
-Forward ribs installed
-Lots of grinding completed, much more to do..

Originally, I was disappointed to see the top/bottom hull seam separation at the stern, but turns out it will make transom removal much easier. Notice the shim material under the ply transom. They appear to be some kind of synthetic material, maybe resin filler. It's either shims for poor fitment, or possibly a layer to keep the ply off the bottom. Either way the ply layers were not glassed to the transom or otherwise separated from the saturated foam.



IMG_3893.jpegIMG_3906.jpegIMG_3899.jpegIMG_3898.jpegIMG_3900.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Progress has been slow, but we are getting there.

-Finished building and installing ribs (minus last rib, going to spit it and frame in a small "bilge" area that accommodates the fuel tank against the transom)
-Removed and replaced transom.
-Cleaned and prepped hull flanges for reassembly

The best I can guess, we are adding 60-80lbs to this boat. The new mahogany ribs total weight is approx 25lbs, 1708 is 12lbs, 36lbs of epoxy, 1/2" ply floor, tape, etc, minus what we removed. We are definitely adding more than we removed. Double layer of 1708 soaked up A LOT of epoxy. I knew it would, but having never messed with it before, I had no idea how much. The ribs could have been smaller/thinner, but the payoff should be a tough hull.

Hopefully she will carry the extra weight well. We will soon find out..






IMG_4049.jpegIMG_4057.jpegIMG_4063.jpeg
 
Chad

Your work is outstanding. I see some very nice glass work and improvements far better than what was originally there. Keep up the good work.

Eric
 
No need to worry about hull flex or making a fiberglass "Taco" with all that teak glassed in!

Cant wait to see it back on the water
 
Wow, thanks for the compliments; that means a lot coming from y'all. We just hit the split in our duck season and are hoping to complete enough to get a few hunts out of her before the season ends. With slow epoxy cure times and only working weekends, progress is slower than we'd like. Fingers crossed!

.
 
We replaced and glassed the transom in, however we have not done the top of the transom. I do not know what material to use that will conform to the shape/sharp edges. The transom is covered, front/back with 8oz cloth and held in place with cabosil/epoxy fillets and 12oz biaxial tape.

What should I use to wrap the top? I want to go around the sides tying the transom to the coaming and then go over the top tying the back of the transom to the front..complete epoxy and glass encapsulation. We are using epoxy exclusively and have some 1708, 12oz biaxial and 8oz E-glass on hand. Would CSM work for this application?
IMG_4061.jpeg
 
Chad

I'm unclear on where you are wanting to put more glass. But in general woven cloth bends to a tight radius.

Eric
 
I'm talking about the very "top" of the transom, where the motor sits. The "motor notch" and the raised section to either side is still raw wood. I glassed the flat surfaces of front "face" and back of plywood transom before installation. Now that the transom is installed, I need to glass the motor notch area of the "top" of the transom.

The area is relatively flat, but has hard corners breaking over the back of the boat.
 
Fiberglass tape will work. You can make your own from with a fiberglass sheet and a utility knife with a straightedge. If the edge is "hard" a router with a 3/8" radius round-over bit will prep it for glass. You can do the same with a RO sander and a few minutes of work.

Eric
 
Once again, thanks for the advice.

We ended up widening the "motor notch" at the top of the transom. The stock notch was too narrow for the Yamaha, so we made a template and took another 1.75" out. We were able to get the top of the transom glassed in, however it took multiple attempts and looks terrible. Once the epoxy cures very well, we'll clean it up and see where we're at. I'm thinking another layer of glass and eventually an aluminum cap.. maybe.

We also finished building the well/bilge area at the transom and got it all glassed in. Glassing small areas of inconsistent/constantly changing shapes is tough. It looks terrible, but should work well.

The areas port and starb of the "bilge" will be covered with the floor. I agonized whether to add drain holes to those rear ribs, but ultimately decided to seal it up and hope for the best. Two layers of cloth, 3 coats of epoxy and eventually two coats of bilge paint should permanently seal it off. Fingers crossed..

The last major hurtle accomplished is the floor. It is shaped, beveled and glassed on one side. More to come..


IMG_4195.jpegIMG_4218.jpegIMG_4199.jpegIMG_4200.jpegIMG_4202.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Chad~


Wonderful workmanship all around. Nothing quite like putting stuff into "better than new" condition.


All the best,


SJS

 
Thomas added a new son to the family and moved into a new house, so progress on the ole' Madoc stalled out for a few months while he settled in. However, we are back on it now and made a bit of progress this weekend.

After adding 2 base layers of 1708, new ribs, overlapping layers of tape and two coats of epoxy, Thomas added two coats of bilge paint before we installed the floor. The bottom and ribs are very well sealed.

The floor is 1/2" marine grade fur ply. It's the best we could do without spending a ridiculous amount for shipping. None of the local supply houses had, or could get through their distributors, proper bs ply. The ply we used was beveled on all edges to meet the hull and was then fully encapsulated in 6oz cloth. Next, we andded two additional coats of epoxy, top and bottom. We installed the floor with thickened epoxy on top of all ribs and around the entire perimeter. Good squeeze out was observed. Once dry, all perimeter edges were feathered and the floor was bonded to the sides of the boat with 3 staggered/overlapping layers of biaxial tape.

We still have some cleanup and addition layers to add in the transom/bilge area, but at least we are moving again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5614.jpeg
    IMG_5614.jpeg
    332 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_5616.jpeg
    IMG_5616.jpeg
    275.1 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_5619.jpeg
    IMG_5619.jpeg
    346.2 KB · Views: 22
Eric Patterson said:
Chad

You guys have done an awesome job on the repairs. I have very much enjoyed seeing the transformation.
Click to expand...

Thanks a million for all the advice! We are getting closer!

So far, with the exception of the transom doubler, we haven't used any screws/fasteners. There are no screws holding the floor to the ribs, only copious amounts of thickened epoxy and perimeter fillets and tape.

Perhaps I'm over thinking it, but is this a mistake? Should we add some screw through the floor into the ribs or is the epoxy bond strong enough?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top