October Workbench

Phenomenal. I bet it is even better in hand. With that complex feather pattern I bet you stressed to get each right or it would mean a lot of re-work. I can only imagine the techniques you used and hours of practice to master them.
 
Bob~

I'm fairly certain Mr. Prine was driven crazy up north because he was trying to paint a Common Loon in breeding plumage.....

Exquisite job - as always!

SJS
 
Another month, another set of built-ins. These three will make up a built in chest of drawers. I won't be using store bought bearing glides for the drawers. I'd rather make hardwood runners (hickory in this case) and wax them for ease of use. I had to relocate a pair of plugs so they would not interfere. In doing so I had to make false studs to position the plugs where they will not interfere with future trim. Next up is running duct for the shower, stove, and dryer. Then insulation will have me ready to install the ship lap walls. IMG_7006.jpeg
 
Make sure there is WiFi, I may need to work a few hours when I come up. 😁
 
No internet/wifi yet so I use cellular. I did put an antenna on the building for local tv stations. When one of my kids wants to live there I'll get internet but it is expensive since there is only one provider for this area and I think they have a true monopoly.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Another month, another set of built-ins. These three will make up a built in chest of drawers. I won't be using store bought bearing glides for the drawers. I'd rather make hardwood runners (hickory in this case) and wax them for ease of use. I had to relocate a pair of plugs so they would not interfere. In doing so I had to make false studs to position the plugs where they will not interfere with future trim. Next up is running duct for the shower, stove, and dryer. Then insulation will have me ready to install the ship lap walls. View attachment 59285
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All~

Still up to my elbones in boats (and their trailers...) but finally completed the repair of these two fine Black Duck stool. They will be migrating back to New Jersey tomorrow.

sm 1 Daniels Black Ducks - pair on grass.JPG

Although quite Bean-like (as in LL Bean Coastals), they were made without any mechanical connection of head to body. After just a little use, each head came off with its own portion of cork.

Instead of a dowel, I used a 5-inch coated steel screw.

sm 3 Daniels Black Ducks - 5-inch head screw.JPG

The heads were set in thickened epoxy - which allowed me to also fair the neck-body transition - my favorite part of shaping any decoy.

I tried to save much of the original head paint - mostly just the crown and eye line. The bill and face got my usual Behr colors - and the flecking is Sanford-style (as I do not own an airbrush to match the original). And, I added the all-important (in my mind) black Line of Demarcation twixt bill and face.

As is my usual practice, the bills were coated with satin spar varnish - to add protection to the always-vulnerable bill paint and to add some "pop" to an area where the wet-look is OK.

sm 2 Daniels Black Ducks - head closeup 1.JPG

The bodies got 2 coats of Rustoleum Flat Brown and Flat Black mixed 4:1.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve

I use those screws on construction projects and they work quite well. Early on I was taught to not drive screws into end grain as it would not hold well and was more likely to split the wood. Over time I'm slowly releasing myself of that constraint. It seems as though the self-tapping point and deep threads overcome a lot of the ills we used to see. At least in soft woods.
 
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IMG_1438.jpeg

Not quite on the workbench but hopefully fixing my one complaint about my duck boss. A bird that comes right over top is guaranteed to flair due to the wide open top. Bent up some 3/4” emt conduit and used Bimini hardware to create a roof. I have added a cross bar where it bends back and today’s project is to add waterproof canvas and netting to attach grass to. I’m concerned about losing my ability to see but am hopeful circling birds will be put at ease
 
Eric Patterson said:
Steve

I use those screws on construction projects and they work quite well. Early on I was taught to not drive screws into end grain as it would not hold well and was more likely to split the wood. Over time I'm slowly releasing myself of that constraint. It seems as though the self-tapping point and deep threads overcome a lot of the ills we used to see. At least in soft woods.
Click to expand...
Eric~

Back in the '80s I used 1/4" galvanized lags to secure the heads on my cork Black Ducks. Never a failure.

Cork Black Duck Preener - closeup C.jpg

Today's profusion of screws made for cordless drivers - and to resist corrosion - allow me to select a lighter option. Note, though, that I have always bored a pilot hole the entire length of the screw to minimize the risk of splitting.

Not to put to fine a point on it....I have repaired plenty of decoys whose dowels had split their heads in use.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve Sanford said:
Eric~

Back in the '80s I used 1/4" galvanized lags to secure the heads on my cork Black Ducks. Never a failure.

View attachment 59329

Today's profusion of screws made for cordless drivers - and to resist corrosion - allow me to select a lighter option. Note, though, that I have always bored a pilot hole the entire length of the screw to minimize the risk of splitting.

Not to put to fine a point on it....I have repaired plenty of decoys whose dowels had split their heads in use.

All the best,

SJS
Click to expand...
I still put 1/4" lags through the body and into the heads of all my cork gunners. Shelf birds usually just get a deck screw.
 
Steve Sanford said:
All~

Still up to my elbones in boats (and their trailers...) but finally completed the repair of these two fine Black Duck stool. They will be migrating back to New Jersey tomorrow.

View attachment 59288

Although quite Bean-like (as in LL Bean Coastals), they were made without any mechanical connection of head to body. After just a little use, each head came off with its own portion of cork.

Instead of a dowel, I used a 5-inch coated steel screw.

View attachment 59289

The heads were set in thickened epoxy - which allowed me to also fair the neck-body transition - my favorite part of shaping any decoy.

I tried to save much of the original head paint - mostly just the crown and eye line. The bill and face got my usual Behr colors - and the flecking is Sanford-style (as I do not own an airbrush to match the original). And, I added the all-important (in my mind) black Line of Demarcation twixt bill and face.

As is my usual practice, the bills were coated with satin spar varnish - to add protection to the always-vulnerable bill paint and to add some "pop" to an area where the wet-look is OK.

View attachment 59291

The bodies got 2 coats of Rustoleum Flat Brown and Flat Black mixed 4:1.

All the best,

SJS
Click to expand...

Great Work, Steve! Those birds belong to my good friend, Billy D. He introduced me to duck hunting in the mid-80s when we both lived on the Outer Banks. My first duck hunting experience was with him in Blind #13 on Bodie Island NPS duck blinds. He also had a Chesapeake named Bufflehead, who was a duck hunting machine. I have many, many fond memories of our hunts back in the day. I know those 2 birds will see good hunts in their New Jersey home..
 
Todd Duncan Tennyson said:
Holy smokes, these are super fine works of art. They just come to life the way they've been done.
Click to expand...
Makes me not want to post my stuff anymore lol. Talent is unreal in here. Hope to get a few birds done in the next couple weeks and then shop gets cleaned up until next spring. Might make a mold here and there during the season but as Mr. Pagliaroli mentioned, migration is on and birds are about 2 weeks out from being pointed at with my shotgun barrel.
 
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