How to fix? (Wood Working Related)

[ChadW]

I'm building a swinging baby cradle for some close friends.

The material is .800" thick. I should have planed down to .75" however, there will be a human child in this contraption I'm making and I was thinking "a bit thicker never hurt anyone."

When I ran my 3/8" round over bit over it, it didn't get deep enough into the corners. Not sure if it's because the material is thicker than .75" or if I need to try a smaller bearing on the bit, but it looks terrible. The roundiver bit is set about as deep as I can get it without getting that square kerf at the bits end.

I think a larger bit my work, but this thing is held together with A LOT of hidden dowels in the joints and I'll probably sit down and cry if I go too deep and expose a dowel somewhere..

Any advice for a hack of a woodworker?

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Just get out a small file and some sandpaper. Will take a little time given the number of joints, but you can get it where you want it.

Looks great, by the way!

 

[Huntindave McCann]

or if I need to try a smaller bearing on the bit, but it looks terrible.

If you intend the round over, to meet at a sharp inside corner, you would need a 0.000 diameter bearing. At this point hand work is about your only option. You have to remove material to move the tangent point of the round over, to be inline with the sharp inside corner. Your end results can be either of these two examples.

 

[ChadW]

Gentleman, thank for the replies. I was almost embarrassed to post this thread, as I've ran miles of material through roundover bits in my lifetime. I can't remember seeing a gap this bad.

Dave, thank you for the drawing; great visual and perfectly illustrates the explanation. I guess I have a lot of hand sanding in my future..

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Gentleman, thank for the replies. I was almost embarrassed to post this thread, as I've ran miles of material through roundover bits in my lifetime. I've just never see the gap this bad.

In retrospect, it makes sense that the core issue is a 3/8" radius on opposing sides of a .800" board is going to leave some kind of gap to contend with. I wish I had enough foresight to predict this when turning the knob on the planer was an easier option than hand sanding.

Dave, thank you for the drawing; great visual and perfectly illustrates the explanation. I guess I have a lot of hand sanding in my future..

Planing further wouldn't have made any real difference. As Dave stated, any bearing (riding inside the frame) would leave some flat spot.

 

[tod osier]

I'm building a swinging baby cradle for some close friends.

The material is .800" thick. I should have planed down to .75" however, there will be a human child in this contraption I'm making and I was thinking "a bit thicker never hurt anyone."

When I ran my 3/8" round over bit over it, it didn't get deep enough into the corners. Not sure if it's because the material is thicker than .75" or if I need to try a smaller bearing on the bit, but it looks terrible. The roundiver bit is set about as deep as I can get it without getting that square kerf at the bits end.

I think a larger bit my work, but this thing is held together with A LOT of hidden dowels in the joints and I'll probably sit down and cry if I go too deep and expose a dowel somewhere..

Any advice for a hack of a woodworker?

I think it looks fine, just leave it.

 

[D. Hinton]

I agree. You have done an amazing job on that.
I would be very very happy to receive that as a gift. It’s uniform across the whole crib, it doesn’t impact structural integrity or safety.

Some times perfect is the enemy of good.

 

[don novicki]

I wouldn't even bother. The couple that gets this gift will be more than happy with your workmanship. I think it looks fine as it is, so don't sweat it.

 

[Eric Patterson]

Use a template and a router bushing guide, or work it by hand. It looks nice as it sits.

 

[HenryHawthorne]

Or take the boatbuilders approach - fillets and paint!

I agree with others that it looks great and you don't really need to do anything... but I share your builder's curse of wanting to make things perfect.

 

[ChadW]

Thanks all! I did the math and if it takes me 5min, per corner, (conservative estimate) I'll spend over 25hrs rounding/blending by hand. I ordered some radiused cabinet scrapers and sanding blocks, as well as glued up some test pieces. I'll play with the test pieces a bit, but if looks like 25hrs of labor to blend, I'll likely leave it as is. (as much as it's driving me crazy..)

Filling and paint is looking like a pretty good option at this point, but there is almost $600.00 in Black Walnut there..would be criminal to paint it.

Thanks for the comments and vote of confidence!

I did manage to get the floor laminated. In these pics, the side and end panels are dry fit, sitting on top of the floor panel. The floor will get beveled to match the side panel angles and will drop in from the top. The square ends of the floor will be doweled into the end panels. The floor is 1/2" solid walnut, should be plenty strong.

I'll post pics when complete.