roy brewington
Well-known member
That's some tough epoxy in both cases. I,ll need to remember those for future projects.
Thanks for posting Dave. I'll give this a look too!Triggered my curiosity as well. After watching the G-flex instruction video, this comparison video popped up, so I watched it as well. Good comparison albeit a different application.I have no direct experience with either product. View attachment 71265
Is it just bad rivet? Or is there a crack? A buddy had a StarCraft welded along the “keel” seam welded twice. It’s cracked twice.My Lund is leaking at the bow. A new boat is out of the question! Any suggestions are appreciated! My first thought is j-b weld the seam inside and out. Maybe add a Keel Guard over that. Anyone ever use one of those ?
I'm not sure Tony. It seems like the area where the formed bow plate and the keel come together. Come spring I'll do the old, fill the boat with water and see where it drips.Is it just bad rivet? Or is there a crack? A buddy had a StarCraft welded along the “keel” seam welded twice. It’s cracked twice.
If it’s just leaking around a rivet I would remove it and then inject it w resin and re buck the rivet.
Tony
I've used it in the past with great results on a 14' Richline I had with leaking rivets. Im not sure with my current issue this product would work and why I'm leaning towards the six/10 epoxy product. I still have to prove I actually know where the issue is to. In the end, I'll use Wetlander to seal the hull before it gets a paint job.Surprised no one has mentioned Gluvit in this thread. I have used it on several occasions with excellent results. First being saving an aluminum hull that actually had small pinholes in the aluminum bottom. This sealed the pinholes and that boat continued to be dry and useful for many years