Steve Sanford
Well-known member
All~
I am calling this "episode" Fillets, Carlins & Quarter Knees.....
This is the last bulkhead - up in the bow to create a forward flotation chamber. It was fitted via the reference lines as described previously. The 4.5-inch hole for the 4-inch Beckson deck plate was sawn on the drill press with a hole saw. The bulkhead is clamped securely to the drill press "table" before I lower the saw.... This procedure is always a bit nerve-wracking - because of the enormous hole diameter - but much better than trying it by hand (which I have done when I have had to!).
Here is the Beckson with screw holes pre-drilled on the bench. The bulkhead has gotten 2 coats of epoxy resin - with sanding (80-grit) after each coat. I also washed this one with warm soapy water this morning to get rid of the amine blush (which repels both more resin and paint).
I have used Beckson's - in both 4-inch and 6-inch - for many years. I tried a couple of less expensive ones recently - but found them to be truly "cheap" - with a narrower flange around the port - and cranky to screw in.
I just ordered a few of these SEAFLO plates - as a trial. They are a bit less costly but come in what they call TAN. This was appealing because I may be installing one on the foredeck of this vessel. Mostly, they are "down below" and I prefer the WHITE. The TAN would also be a good choice for one of my (many) canoes whose flotation chambers need attention.
I tacked this block onto the king plank to support the bulkhead as it gets 'glassed in. The bulkhead is tacked to it.
Filleting is not my favorite chore. Nevertheless, I soldier through. The epoxy is mixed with Cabosil (fumed silica) and US Composites Fairing Compound. The latter is fumed silica plus phenolic microballoons (or microspheres). The microballoons impart the reddish color and make sanding much easier. I force it in with tongue depressors, squeegees and a gloved finger tip - and let it cure overnight. The white duct tape is to help me "work clean" - to limit the extent of the later layer of 'glass.
Instead of the conventional 3 layers of 'glass tape, I used a first layer of 1708 followed by a single layer of cloth. Both were cut to width with scissors - to avoid the lip that the selvage edges of tape can create. This is just a matter of personal preference for me. I have lots of faith in the mat and biaxial rovings in the 1708 and I like the smoother surface of the cloth on top.
This photo shows the bulkhead at the forward end of the cockpit. It has a high and level "sill" to keep bilge water out so I have dry storage under the foredeck.
The next job is dry-fitting the carlins - to form the shape of the cockpit sides and to support the side decks. As the sides are curved - about the same as the gunwales - they require more work than rectangular cockpits. The first step is to bevel the inner edges of the notches that were pre-sawn into each of the bulkheads. The bevels could not be pre-sawn on the bench because I had not yet worked out the curves and the resulting angles. A pull saw is the tool for this finicky task. The depth of the notch is also critical but that was drawn and cut on the bench.
Each carlin was beveled on the table saw and now fits flush with the crowned top edge of the bulkheads.
This corner will receive the forward quarter knee on the port side - hence 1-P. There are 5 more such corners.
The carlins are clear White Pine. I normally use a tougher wood - Philippine Mahogany or Douglasfir - but I m trying to minimize weight. Time will tell if my judgment was sound....
The quarter knees are cut from 2x4 framing lumber - planed to a full inch. Angles are critical - including the dreaded compound bevel. With the right tools and a sharp blade on my miter saw, it is fairly straightforward work.
I am not sure but that protractor may be the one I had in high school....
The bevel gauge is significantly older. I own 4 such devices - but this has always been my favorite. A web search tells me it is a Disston & Morss No. 3 Sliding T Bevel.
The floral detail on the adjusting screw - and the single pin through the lower brass plates - suggests this is a a Variation B, made in Philadelphia between 1891 and 1905. The wood is Rosewood.
Another favorite old tool. I mostly use this draw-knife to shape decoy bodies - but it was just the ticket for "hogging off" most of the proud wood on the ends of the carlins.
A sharp draw-knife is a pleasure to use. The ends of the carlins stick up above the deck height fore and aft of the cockpit so must be shaved down. I prefer to run the carlins past the bulkheads to relieve the stress on the carlin-bulkhead joint.
I used a block plane for the final shaping, just barely removing my pencil lines.
The end of a fine and productive day!
Tomorrow I start fitting the plywood decking.
All the best!
SJS
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