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Do a quick load calculation and double or triple up the bottom chord to carry the load on a span that would give you plenty of room to work and make up some removable posts for the 4 corners. I'd think that would work well. Our new barn in WY that hopefully is going up this summer the trusses...

Just the bottom chords. The load isn't that great, since the boats aren't that heavy. I figure if I can hang on them and they don't move (was fat back then too), then they are fine. The first time I did it, I stood up a pair of 2x4 posts to the sides of the truss, but didn't the second time. My...

I always use thickened epoxy since it is so much neater to use than neat (see what I did there?). I dip/spin material on the screw and/or use a putty knife to fill the countersink. I don't worry about removing screws that are epoxied in, they just come out pretty easy. I use a heated...

The 6" screw in access hatches worked well for me, I don't think they seal well enough to pressurize, I've never had water in mine. I have them just siliconed on/in, I think. I went without a hatch cover on the bow compartment for a decade (lost it somehow, but now I have it replaced to keep the...

Interesting, that video made it look like it is really light (and poorly loaded). Long planing surface there compared to the snow goose. Seems like it would be a good option for a garvey and easily made into a duck boat.

A lot of these boats are built really shittily and hastily from what I've seen, so there is not an expectation for me that they are 100% encapsulated. Plenty of rot has been found where it it shouldn't be found, I think a lot can be attributed to poor attention to detail or poor technique. On...

This comes up every so often and I've read enough on it and seen enough that for screws that I don't have a bit of concern. I've pulled screws out that have been buried or covered for 10-15-20 years and they look as good as new. Any stainless screw I plan to leave in is bedded in peanut butter...

Just becauae handsome and wise were missing?!?!

Fortunately, the epoxy usually cures before crevice corrosion sets in.

I have confidence that Henry can drive a couple dozen screws and not ruin the sheer clamps by splitting them AND there is no reason to remove the screws if you use a stainless screw, which are inexpensive and widely available these days. The way I'm suggesting isn't my method, it is just how...

An alternative is to clamp and screw them from the inside working your way along.

Like me? :rolleyes:

Better pic of the jig.

I'm sure Henry will come up with a great way to handle it, but flipping is such a non-issue that is doesn't merit too much discussion. I built a crude turning jig that is deeper and wider than the boat that goes on the motor bolts, so it will sit upright, on its side or upside down. Turn it by...

Given how the hull behaves, I'd be scared to do a lot of messing around. For those who don't know, these hulls need for a lot of power to get on plane which is driven the very short planing surface. The boat performs well as is on plane (tight in curves, handles chop well for the boat weight and...

The boat looks great, it is really going to slow down when you flip if you are going to maintain that level of detail and thoughtfulness. Don't get me wrong, post flip is a lot of fun and I still remember sitting in the boat into the evening thinking and planning as a positive life memory - BUT...