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Steve, Thinking I am going to go with trex for the rub rail. Looking on the TDB site, they dont take it around the bow which solves a lot of the issue with installing it. Was thinking about making grassing rails out of it as well but may end up using leftover coosa board as I think I will have...

FYI There is a sealant scrapper attachment for multitools that does an OUTSTANDING job of removing 5200 from the hull. There was a bead around the top edge of the hull where the top attaches and the tool "cut" it off without damaging the gelcoat. Took me maybe 3 minutes to go around the...

Tod, the deciding factor was the fact that if my limited skill with fiberglass was going to be an issue, I would rather it be on the inside of the boat and not the part that keeps it from sinking. I do appreciate the advice even if I decided to go against it. The point is to get differing...

The REAL question........... you cutting from the inside or the outside. The suspense is killing me. I was trying to avoid this topic :) Decided to go the inside route. The wood was so far gone that it only took me a couple of hours to get all the wood out and most of that was sanding on...

I have a call in to Scott at Wetlander to discuss. However, I may lean towards the Parkers or FME for this project. I am not being cheap but just don't know that spending more on the paint than I did on the boat and trailer is how I want to go with it. The next decision is do I go with an...

I have the transom out of the boat but will not be able to get Coosa board until the end of the month. Also was able to get the 5200 off the top of the hull where it attached to the top of the boat. There is some remaining residue that i need to decide if I need to deal with. To keep the...

That makes sense now. I need to get back to the shop so I can look at some more details

I can see your point about the corners being an issue.

Tod, not trying to offend and really don't want to make things more difficult. I just don't really understand how cutting out the outside would be easier based on the access I have to the complete area. That said, this is my first time doing this so that is why I am asking for inputs from the...

Unless someone here, REALLY disagrees with this plan, I think cutting along the edge of the inner skin with my multi-tool is going to be easiest. Multi-tool will not remove much material and I can get pretty tight to the hull/floor which will give me good access to the complete area. The area...

Richard, this is a factory boat so there is no concern with rot mitigation to other parts. The hull is all fiberglass and the only other wood is the floor which I have checked out and not found any issues. Did find an old beer can under the floor while checking it out. 😂

My thought is to cut out the inner skin so I can remove all the wood, rotten or not. Don’t think there is much in the “not” category. Then epoxy coosa board to the outer skin. I was told that there is no need to glass it in. Josh, I have looked at the liquid transom products but I would...

I’m not an experienced boat builder like some of you but I’m pretty sure that having an actual puddle of water between the inner and outer skins of the transom is not ideal (a little hard to see in the photo ). Tried to see if I could just dig out the old wood (and got a lot of it) but think I...

As I said in a previous post, I picked up this Broadbill at a really good price. When I registered it, the state had it as a 1978 and had not been in the water in over 20 years. Overall, I thought it was in good shape but i quickly realized that the transom wood is completely gone. Does have...