1/4 luan for building?

Geoff Schroeder

Geoff Schroeder

Member
hi all.

this stuff is AKA phillipinine mahagony plywood, right? if so, is it suitable for glassing just the outside of the hull for a stillwater/lethargic streams, low profile boat. The design is my own, a double-ender, and will be car topped and dragged- so I am interested in keeping the weight down. My local lumber guy thought it would need glass inside and out so as not to be "floppy"- and I just don't know. Dimensions are 9'x3.75, flat bottom/decked. think fat pirogue-ish.

I realize this question reeks of amateur, but that's what I am. thanks for any and all help.

Geoff
 
I would say no to glass on the inside. I think you can get by without the glass on the inside if you are willing to stay within the parameters of what you listed and are not trying to build an heirloom boat as some like to do. A quick build to get you in the game will teach you much about how boat building goes and you will have something to use. Many working boats have been built with wood chines and cdx plywood. If you store the rig in a garage and dry it out after using it you will get bye. But do not expect a lifetime of use and be willing to build your next one soon so you can put your first efforts in perspective and build a better second boat.
Wooden boat and others have build a boat in a day classes and all are cdx or luan, with liquid nails glue and ss screws or nails. They all float just fine.
 
you may want to go to the woodenboat forum... I think it's woodenboat.net

It's a general boat building question and your concern about the stiffness is the most important question, i.e. the design... especially since it's a homemade design. be prepared to send plans and pics, etc.
 
When I built my Karas, I used luan for one of them (AC exterior grade ply for the other). I glassed the exterior, painted the interior bottom. I had the boat for 4 years and it worked great. No apparent degradation of the wood. Now, I babied it quite a bit. I also had a garage to park the boat in, or made sure it had a top on it when parked outside. I would pull the floor out and shop vac out the water after each hunt, make sure it dried well, etc. Since the Kara design doesn't have a drain plug, water would sit in the bottom requiring the manual removal of water. That did get old, and I went to an all fiberglass boat (lighter, has a drain and don't have to worry as much about it).

As said above, if you're wanting to build an inexpensive boat that will work for several years, it's fine. Good luck and keep us posted as you build the boat!

Scott
 
Try to find 1/4" AC plywood in your area. It doesnt absorb water as easily, is within a
couple of dollars per sheet, and doesnt have that shredded wheat quality when and if a repair
is needed.
Glass outside and a good coat of paint inside should be fine, barring standing water for
extended periods on the inside.
See Dave Carnells boat page for a good article on this.
 
I think the critical element to your puzzle at this stage is your design... make sure it's going to work (carry loads you want, etc. without too much flexing, etc.)

Good luck, sounds like a fun project.
 
I'd skip the luan and use 1/4 AC fir or pine ply..........I tried building a simple pirouge before with the Luann and it was not very user friendly at all. Ditched the stuff and built with 1/4 exterior ply . Boat is still being used by the guy I sold it to 6 years later.
 
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Ditto on the 1/4" AC ply. Ditch the Luan as it will likely crack and splinter when you're bending it during the build. I tried building a KARA with it and ended up tearing it all off when I cracked the last piece...no fun when it's already glued and nailed every inch or so.
 
I used 1/8" luan for a Canyak and it still is in good shape after close to 10 years. Glassed the out side but just painted the inside. Kept it as dry as possible between hunts and seasons. Much lighter than 1/4" CD that I used on the first one. BTW it is for sale, check the classifieds.
 
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