2-part foam decoys

R

Robert Becherer

Active member
My son and I have been kicking around the idea of making foam decoys with 2-part foam.I have done a search on the subject and found some very interesting info.The question I have is how much part A and part B does one mix up for one body?For example 3oz of A and 3oz of B. Also how much for the head?The decoy that we would make is a Mallard for now. How much does one save $ wise per decoy,not including paint.
I have tossed around the idea of using the EPS method and using maybe a 5gal bucket or cut down drum over a wood or charcoal fire.I do have enough down trees on my property to do a wood fire heat source.
 
Go to foamdecoys.net go to their forum they have more than ya want know about foame decoys & how to make them. You will have to sighn up for the site to get into some parts. Hope this helps.
Dennis
 
The tricky part with 2-part foam is the release agent. Some guys have figured it out, but most arent talking!!!!

With EPS, the shipping on the beads is a killer unless you can find some within driving distance.

Good luck!
 
If you're looking to save $ by making your own decoys then don't bother. By the time you buy the foam, mold release, sandpaper, dowels, gorilla glue or epoxy, apoxy sculpt, primer, and make a keel you'll be surprised at the cost. BUT, if you want to have the satisfaction of shooting over home-made decoys the cost and time is well worth it!!!

I bought a DU mold last year and have made a few 2 part foam decoys but only have one finished. I've finally got the process down but I messed up the first 2 I tried. You need at least 3 coats of mold release between each pour if your mold is newer. It works better to heat up the mold before you pour and make sure it's around 80 degrees when you pour. You also have to mix very fast and thorough and pour into the molds carefully and then roll them around and shake them a bit before the foam starts expanding rapidly, which is like around 45 seconds or so. Also, let the foam cure for long enough and don't get impatient like I did. Oh, and make sure to sand all of the "skin" or mold release off of the foam or the paint won't stick. This step is probably the most time consuming.

Here's what mine looked like:
ReeseRiz092.jpg

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I use 5 lb urathane foam... I come up with $62 a dozen for mine foam decoys... I honestly don't remember if that included freight or not. Either way.... I think it is a HUGE cost saving.... compaired to other foam or cork decoys.....

After all ... How many of them can take a direct hit from 3" #3's at 15 feet? or do this???
truckondecoy2.jpg


I have made 10 dozen.... these are the last 4 dozen......

D30_7498.jpg


I don't paint for style... I just want the birds to drop in to them..... and they DO!!!

D30_7499.jpg

 
Now that is a good testimonial, Phil. Loved that shot of the Ram up on the decoy. I also liked the decal above the Cummins sign.
Al
 
If you're looking to save $ by making your own decoys then don't bother. By the time you buy the foam, mold release, sandpaper, dowels, gorilla glue or epoxy, apoxy sculpt, primer, and make a keel you'll be surprised at the cost. BUT, if you want to have the satisfaction of shooting over home-made decoys the cost and time is well worth it!!!
Click to expand...

This would be my thoughts as well. Several years ago I looked into making my own decoys by every means possible to try and save a buck. I ended up buy factory decoys at the time. since then, I have moved into carving decoys, but that is another story.
 
I did the first batch in 2003. They still are great gunning over, even though I need to do some touch up on the paint... I did the last 4 dozen last year.


I really don't see how it is more cost effective to buy than build. You can't buy decoys that will hold up this well for $150 a dozen....
 
For keels I use the synthetic decking material and I run a 6" lag screw from the bottom into the head to hold the head on. I put Dap 200 between the head and the body for extra holding power... You could also use bondo......
 
The first thing you need to do is figure out what density foam you plan on using. The lower the density the greater the expansion rate. I use 8# foam for all my bodies. I would recommend using no less than 4# for bodies (unless you plan on burlaping).

To get started, figure out the liquid volume of the mold cavity. The easiest way to do that is to fill the mold cavity with water then slowly empty the water into a measuring container of some sort. I use a 1000ml measuring cup.

Most of my decoy bodies have a liquid volume around 4000ml. Here is an example to figure out how much of part A and part B you need to cast one blank using 8# density foam in a mold with a 4000ml liquid volume.

8# foam expands roughly 8 times it's mixed liquid volume. The liquid volume of the mold cavity divided by the expansion rate of the foam = the amount of mixed foam required.

4000ml/8 = 500. This means you need 500ml of MIXED 8# foam.
500/2 = 250. This means you need 250ml of part A and 250ml of part B (1:1 mix ratio).

This is a rough calculation to get you in the ball park. You may have to increase the amounts slightly if the mold isnt filling up or decrease if the foam is really bursting out of the seams.

I make my own molds using silicone rubber. You may want to consider trying it. It's not that hard and it's relatively inexpensive.

The release agent you use is very important. It's dependant on what your mold is constructed from and what material you are casting.

If you are casting foam only (with no plastic shell) do not use a silicone based release agent. The silicone reacts with the foam and causes voids. Use a wax based release agent. Smooth-on has a release agent specifically for casting polyurethane foam.

Hope this helps.
 
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US Composites sells foam and release agent. Their paste wax release works fine. I made a dozen canvasbacks last month out of an american decoy mag diver mold. I bought finished heads from Ureaduck. Be careful of those heads because the paint comes off quickly. I burlap wrapped the bodies. I like the way they turned out
 
Thanks Guys for your input.This is helping alot.I have been on the Working Decoy site and there is a lot on info there.I have been eyeing the molding procedure with the home made mold.Looks interesting and worth a try.
When I made my Hummer,I ordered my fiberglassing supply from US Composites.I don't know when we will try and attempt this project but any and all info is greatly apprecaited.
Thank you
This is why I like this web site.Everyone is always willing to help with advice learned from experiance or passed from someone.Good Job
 
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