2 part foam decoy's?

J

John D.

Active member
Has anyone used the 2 part urethane foam to make blocks with to then carve decoys out of? I was thinking one could make block molds really easily, then carve the blocks, then paint. This way the paint wouldn't eat the foam like your typical foamer, and you wouldn't have to use a mold to cook the duck in, so you could add alot of detail to the deek.

probably a wast of time and energy. But I've got to entertain myself now that the season is over.
 
John,

A search of the archives will revel at least one member here using two part foam. Rather than cast the foam into a block, he has made his own custom mold and cast the urethane directly into the mold. No further carving needed.
 
Probably easier and cheaper to "carve" EPS foam or blue foam insulation board and then burlap it.
 
John,

I've been painting old decoys as divers for a couple of years. My diver spread is 90% old mallard decoys. They seem to hunt just fine. I will admit they don't look as good as carved decoys you see on this page. It has kept me busy in the off season though. My next endevor will be to begin carving too.

Ben
 
I've already got more decoys than I can use at one time. I really just want a project. I carve wood decoys but don't hunt them. They're too heavy and impractical for the way I hunt. I was scheming on making a bunch of foam blue bills and can's to put on a net rig for next season. I could just use the decoys I use on long lines for this but....well.....I don't know
 
Sounds like you are way ahead of me on the decoy carving front. I've never carved 2 part foam but most of the fellers use foam board. There has got to be a reason for that.
 
John:
There are several suppliers of machinable foam that you may consider. Look in the tool and die industry and custom crown moldings. These foams come in various weights (2# thru 20#) and also thickness. Typically they are sold in 4x8 sheets and whatever thickness. It's expensinve stuff, I looked at some and it worked out to $5 bdft

I received some scraps from a friend that runs a high end cabinet shop. They had to replicate a 16" exterior crown molding. Wood was not an option, this foam was 16# I think and tough as nails. I carved a rig of coot because I wasn't willing to waste my good wood on them. It carves about like balsa, you could do it with a sureform rasp without a problem. My coot are just sealed and painted, no burlap, but I then I don't abuse my decoys all that much.
 
John,

I have some experience using 2 part foam but only in molds. I'm not sure how well it would "carve." I've typically used the 16lb foam for heads and the 8lb foam for bodies. The 16lb foam is extremely hard, so I don't think it would carve very well. As for the 8lb foam, I think it is soft enough to carve, but I think you would have to use a power carver.

I think your best bet is either using 2 part foam in molds or carving cork decoys.

One other thing about 2 part foam and molded decoys - getting paint to stick is no easy matter. I ususally have to sand the molded decoy to create a surface that paint will adhere to.
 
John....not to stretch any spam issue...but...if you're looking to build your rig and paint your own (saving time with the carving), you might be interested in our line of decoys. Just a thought. ;)
Lou
The E. Allen Decoy
www.lockstockbarrell.com
Look around a bit and holler with any questions.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like this may not be such a good idea. I am getting a little curious about using molds though. I would like to hunt over decoys I've made myself. I just can't seem to make it work. I carved a bunch of wooden and cork decoys awhile back, painted them up, made them float right ect ect......I was all excited about hunting them. Well the season finally came and I took all those decoys out for a hunt. I discovered that the weight of a hand carved rig is incredible. I just don't understand how guys do it. Also, the whole process of setting out and picking up was slowed down tremendously due to taking pains not to damage the ducks I'd put so much work into. I had previously and again currently, been just piling my decoys up in a big pile in the bow of my boat. I can pick them up and set them out pretty quick this way. I just can't spend an hour picking up decoys. I will use some mallards and black ducks I carved for early season hunts where I only set out a few blocks but the majority of what I do is diver hunting with a big spread. So I liked the idea of foam due to it's weight and durability but I'm not excited about burlaping. I kinda feel that if I'm going to put that kind of effort into it I had might as well carve a real decoy out of wood or cork. If anyone has any other suggestions I would appreciate the input.

Thanks guys
 
If you want lightweight you can build yourself, go the EPS "dock foam" route, easy to carve then burlap. I will try to remember to post pics of mine on Monday. Or search for oil boom:

LInks to posts:

http://duckboats.net/...g=oil%20boom;#134048

http://duckboats.net/...g=oil%20boom;#143664

http://duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=169920;search_string=oil%20boom;#169920

I've used these for three seasons now, only had one keel come off, paint looks great and they float very nicely. FOr a big diver spread, this is the way to go.

When i make more, I will round the tops more and use a bottom board of 1" pine, giving more strength to the keel and head attachment. THis will also let me get twice as many decoys out of the foam i have left. Plan is to make some redheads and ringers this Spring.
 
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