4 Small Leaks, Best Fix??

D

Don Schwader

Member
I filled the boat about 1/3 full of water and waited about 10 min.
there were 4 leaks all very slow all at the rear of the boat where the
transom attaches to the bottom of the boat there is a row of double
rivets I took a magic marker to mark each area. the other was about 4"
forward of that area on the keel. All were slow leaks about 1 drop
every 30 sec. but they are leaks. As I understand it there is a product
that is applied to the inside of the boat that will penetrate and seal
the area that leaks anyone here ever try it? Or do I drill out the old
rivets where there are leaks and put in new rivets?
 
First thing I'd do is get a pneumatic hammer and see if I could re-hammer the rivets. If that doesn't work, chisel them off, punch 'em out and redrill. Follow that with new solid aluminum rivets.

I know lots of guys fill their boat to test it but a boat isn't designed to "hold" water, merely to keep it out. I know of a big cabin cruiser around here that came into the slip after having punched a hold in the bow. He powered in and filled up with water. When he ordered the fellas on the hoist to "get the dam thing up out of the water".............the weight of water blew out the entire bottom of the boat.

You're better off, removing everything from the boat & floating the boat and then marking the leaks.
Careful with filling it with water......I never do it. But then, thats MHO. ;)
Lou
 
What Lou said.

I've tried evrything over the years including marine-tex and aluma weld but once a rivet hole is leaking unless you can hammer it out to stop the leak the fix is a new rivet.

I have never met a riveted aluminum boat that wouldn't leak at some time in it's career. Not condemning riveted aluminum boats as they definitely have their place in waterfowling and fishing and their light weight is uaually a big plus but after enough twisting and pounding they will begin to piss in the floor.

Also, don't fill the boat with water as that will only stress more rivets.
Good luck on the fix,
Harry
 
You will have to determine what to do. On very small leaks paint over them on the out side. This is not as permanent as pounding the rivets but easier and faster. It is also a one person job. Pounding rivets is a two person job. If you go with replacing rivets make sure you get the right rivets. There are hard and soft rivets. You would want the softer rivets. These are closer to the malleability of the aluminum of the boat and you are less likely to elongate the hole. On some aluminum boats the rivets are harder than the shell, that's all right but they are using a very powerful press and dies that won't allow side way movement. When you start beating on rivets with a hammer that side ways movement is not as easy to control. Good luck on what ever you decide.
 
don, i have the same exact boat with the same problems. i have two leaks. i floated it when it was completely dry and put 4 guys in the boat for enough weight. one leak in the bow and one at the transom on the centerline. im planning on sandblasting the hull and then have the problem areas welded. weld at the transom where it meets the bottom, problem area at bow and maybe along the chine. guys, is there any problem with welding this type of boat? best, mark
 
I have seen some older riveted boats that had a rubber-ish gasket between the aluminum layers. Might be somthing ya want to check on before putting a lot of heat to it. no experence about it just a thought
Dennis
 
Glad you brought that up Dennis. I know Alum Craft have that rubber like gasket in the seams. I bought a old boat that had been used hard and leaked about a coffee can in about four hours. I used galvanize Aluminum prep and then painted the boat. The leaks slowed to less to two cups over the same time. The dog brings in more water than that.
 
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