Air Brush Question

Paul Strombeck

Active member
I have puchased some Herters 72' as well as some supplies to make a few of my own coot and gadwall decoys. I have hand painted in the past but would like to try an air brush. What are you thoughts on this? Suggestions for make of air brush? paint pitfalls or tips? amount I should bedget for the unit etc?
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This site has a TON of talent ...... Your advice would be appreciated.

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Paul,

I would recommend a double action brush. It allows you to control flow and pressure. If you plan on doing a bird here and there I would suggest a gravity fed. It holds the paint above the needle and you can mix small amounts of colors and drop them in. If you're doing multiple birds a siphon style will hold more paint. I have a paasche vl but have not used it for decoy painting yet. For acrylics you want to have them the consistency of milk. I read somewhere about adding windex to the paint to thin and it also helps flow better. I never tried so I cannot comment on the benefit of it.
 
My questions is: What are your expectations for the airbrush vs. hand brushing? Do your think it will be faster, look better, more durable, etc? Also do you plan on painting the entire decoy/rig with the AB? It will be easier to adress your question if we understand your expectations.

Willy
 
What do you mean by "a few" coot and gadwall decoys? A dozen each, or a dozen total? I'd strongly consider brushing them instead, because I know I can brush them quickly, effectively, and use the paints I am used to in the consistency they come out of the tube or can, but that is just me.

Air brushes have the following challenges:
1. The learning curve of learning to use one, getting the proper paint consistency, learning to use masking and blending, and learning to properly clean it between uses without damaging needle of other components
2. Getting the correct one for the job, i.e., detail work versus painting a larger area such as flank, rump, etc.
3. Cost
4. Compatibility of paint for airbrush use
5. Correct compressor and regulator for the airbrush and the airbrush paints
6. Respiratory protection, overspray protection, and fume evacuation

If you can find a friend, taxidermist, or local hunter who uses an airbrush and who would be willing in person to share a demo/learning session it might answer a lot of questions for you, including "do I really want one for this purpose?" For larger areas and general painting, a cheapy from a local hobby shop with a half assed compressor might be very satisfactory. I used a set up like this to paint fishing plugs for years and was happy with the generally good results, ease of cleaning, and low tech nature of the airbrush itself. It would have functioned great for painting herter's style paint jobs on decoys. More detail? No way! But it did cover large areas effectively and quickly with reasonably narrow blend areas.

When all things are considered, I personally prefer a brush in hand and the challenges associated with it for getting blends, as I don't have to contend with other isses like cleaning time, paint consistency, compatibility, compressor, etc. If I were going to do 3 dozen at a whack and could set up an assembly line, and planned to do a bunch more in the future on an annual basis, then an airbrush and learning how to use it makes more sense.

If you decide to go with an aribrush, then trust Willy for advice, guidance, and purchase of an airbrush for decoys........ He gives great customer service, solid advice, has never steered me wrong, uses what he recommends, and is happy to help via phone when the customer calls and needs help getting a product to work.
 
Paul,

"I have a paasche vl but have not used it for decoy painting yet. I read somewhere about adding windex to the paint to thin and it also helps flow better. I never tried so I cannot comment on the benefit of it."

"My questions is: What are your expectations?"



Good thought, Willy

But let me add that I can see why you cringe at some of the advice given on the net ;-)

If you are choosing a particular brand of paint, one of the reasons for doing so beyond it's reputation for quality would be for the info & tech data available on the entire product line. The ability to learn how to use a particular brand of paint is a huge reason for spending a bit more on it. In this respect, the products Willy sells and can advise one on are well worth it.

My question would be: What type of paint have you invested in? If you are “hearing” advice about using a fix like Windex for thinning paints -- a method used by quite a few model-makers - think model railroad , plastic cars & airplanes, etc.- I would imagine it’s coming from folks using cheap craft acrylics rather than artist grade paint. In addition, their work won’t be subject to the conditions your decoys will.

Be aware that manufacturers of artist-grade acrylics (Golden, Traditions, et al.) have formulated their accompanying line of acrylic thinning mediums (and all their mediums for that matter) to insure that you are adding a compatible acrylic resin into their paint. This results in a mix with better physical characteristics, a mix that specifically maintains its durability, color, and pigment load. It all has to do with how the long-chain polymers in the resin cure and therefore maintain the paint’s ability to “bend” and move without cracking.

When you dilute the compound with something like Windex (or even too much water for that matter) the long chain polymers in quality paint get broken down, and its strength is reduced. Yea, it will flow smoothly, but so does water. So, no, Windex is absolutely not the same as using acrylic flow mediums formulated by the manufacturer to maintain the quality of their long-chain polymers. Trust me, if there was a cheap, quick fix, the paint companies sure as hell wouldn’t be paying a bunch of chemists to figure out how to get their paints to flow well and still maintain their quality.

Why will you see so many people recommending stuff like Windex to thin paint for airbrushing? Probably because someone once tried it on their model trains and it went through their airbrush OK. They told someone else who told someone else and now they think they have defeated a conspiracy by big business to steal their money for useless mediums - when Windex is just as good and can probably be found under the kitchen sink. Think again.

By the way, I have found that a mix of Windex, a product called Simple Green, and distilled water makes a great solvent for removing dried acrylic paint from surfaces, cleaning brushes, and cleaning out an airbrush ;-)
 
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Why will you see so many people recommending stuff like Windex to thin paint for airbrushing? Probably because someone once tried it on their model trains and it went through their airbrush OK. They told someone else who told someone else and now they think they have defeated a conspiracy by big business to steal their money for useless mediums - when Windex is just as good and can probably be found under the kitchen sink. Think again.

This doesn't make sense. I thought everything posted on the internet was true. I guess I stand corrected. :)
 
I have painted decoys in the past - probably 5 doz over the past 30 years and have a nice set of brushes along with a little technique.
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Being an old Herters enthusist I have been moving to the old #72 and #63's and like the softer paint lines achieved by air brush. Hence thought I may want to set a brush up to; Touch up my model 72, mallards, bluebills, redheads, goldeneyes and #63 widgeon. I have patterns cut and orginal heads to build 6 herters coot decoys - obviously I don't need and airbrush to paint these. Build 6 'burlap foamer' gadwalls using restle heads I have on hand
Hoped to use Parker paints thinning the paint if needed.
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If the learning curve is significant or the equipment is a hassle I may just want to brush these.
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BTW I really like the widgeons shown in the recent AWS tribute
Your thoughts?
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An airbrush seems like overkill on Herters to me. But if you want to start carving your own, they might be good practice, as it will take practice to run one. You can get soft lines with a regular brush. Parkers dries pretty fast so would need to be quick to blend the colors. Although some thinner might help. Also, dry brushing techniques will likely work.
 
Paul~

I'm an Old School guy (there are a few Renaissance painters who knew a thing or two about blending paints....) - so no experience with airbrushes - but I also have lots of Herters (72s, 81s, 92s) and have been refurbishing a bunch of them this winter. One thing I have always liked about these foam birds is their texture. You can get lots of good effects just by dragging a dry-ish brush over them. And, one thing I love about re-painting herds of gunning birds is that you have to use paint schemes that are efficient and effective - it leads you right into Impressionist techniques you might not use if you were fussing over individual birds.

View attachment Model 72 Cans - SJS 3-13 vs.jpg

Sea Trials in our frog pond yesterday - Sorry for the smallish image - our Wi-fi is giving us problems with Photobucket.

BTW: I am coating my birds with epoxy and sawdust (sort of a Restle coat) to toughen them up - I'm hoping it'll protect the foam from the anchors.

All the best,

SJS
 
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